Lumber Liquidators

Common Hardwood Myths - Part Two

Here's part two of our series on common hardwood myths.  The first one can be found HERE.

20.  Wood floors that are sanded and finished at the job-site are more durable than a factory manufactured finished floor.

     A pre-finished floor gives you the added benefit of a perfect finish applied under dust-free, ideal conditions at the factory.  Ours include from five to eight coats with aluminum oxide suspended in the finish.  The only thing harder is diamonds! Factory finishes are much harder than any product site-applied, requiring air-drying.

21.  Repairs are easier to make on a sanded and finished floor than a pre-finished floor.

     If needed, pre-finished boards can be replaced one at a time.  Job site finished boards require four or five days of sanding, staining, finishing and then waiting for the finish to dry.  After that, it may still not match the sheen of the floor.

22.  I have heard the oil-soaps are the best way to clean my wood floor.

     Soaps and detergents can leave a harmful film causing the top finishes to yellow, alligator or crack. Consult the product labeling for its expressed warranties.

23.  My wood flooring can be delivered and installed the same day.

     The industry and most wood manufacturers recommend that solid wood flooring be delivered to the job site at least 3-5 days before the installation. This properly acclimates the wood to "normal living conditions'. Temperature of 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with the HVAC fan left in the “on” position to provide a continuous flow of air across the floor are ideal.  Most engineered wood floors require about one day for acclimation. Be sure to check our installation guidelines for various products on our web site.

 24.   I only have white oak and red oak to choose from.

     Although White and Red Oak is still very popular, we have hundreds of beautiful Exotic wood species along with Cork and Bamboo from forests from all over the world. Many are offered in wider widths of 3”, 4”, 5”. The choice is yours.

 25.  When my wood is delivered can I store it in the garage, out of the weather?

     No. Wood flooring should never be stored in a garage, in a basement, directly on cement or in out buildings. No exposure to moisture of any type should be permitted.  Uncontrolled humidity or moisture vapors can penetrate into the wood flooring, causing it to swell or cup.

 26. Wood floors cannot be installed in a basement on a concrete floor.

     Not so.  We offer many fine quality engineered wood floors that feature cross-grain ply construction.  These floors are very stable and resist expansion and contraction.  Be sure to test your concrete floor for excessive levels of moisture over 3%.  Concrete installations (Gluedown or Floating) normally require moisture barriers.

27. I expect to get a wood floor to be all the same color, like the store sample.

     Wood is a natural product with patterns and color variations created in a living tree, like all of nature never to be repeated.  A small sample containing only a few grain patterns and shades of a species could never completely represent a fully installed floor with hundreds of pieces. If you prefer more uniformity in color and shade exotics may not be for you, consider our Dura-wood stained products.

 28. I expect my floor to have a “table top finish”.

      Wood floors are not tabletop material.  Hardwood floors that are pre-finished are milled to exacting specifications.  However, you may feel a slight variation from plank to plank, when walking across the floor in your bare feet. We offer both micro bevel and square edged materials.

 29. Hardwood floors are indestructible.

      Despite today's advanced technology, water spills, dirt and other abrasive substances can damage a wood floor's finish.  Location, traffic patterns, how often the floor is vacuumed and cleaned, children and/or pets are all factor that influence wear.

 30. Engineered floors are not “real wood” floors.

           Engineered floors have a real hardwood veneer wear layer with a multi-layer cross grain construction, perfect for at-grade or below-grade cement installations. These can be re-sanded about two times.

 31. If I get down on my hands and knees, I can see all kinds of small defects.

     Product claims are viewed/determined from a standing position.

 32. My basement, crawl space, or concrete slab looks dry so I should not have any problems with a new wood floor.

 About 90% of installation complaints are due to moisture, your installer should always check the subfloor and protect against moisture before installing the floor. Moisture issues are job site related.

 33. I have radiant heat, so I can't install a new wood floor.

     Many of our floors work well over radiant heat such as Floating, Laminates and Engineered. For solid wood, always shop for stability. Ask your sales assistant about this. Be sure to follow the radiant heat manufacturer’s guideline for thermostat controls. Do not exceed 85F surface temperatures.

 34.   I was told to re-seal my  hardwood or bamboo after installation to protect it against pet urine, vomit or spills.                                                                                                              

      Regular cleaning is always recommended however applying another sealer over the original finish will void the warranty. Once between the boards sealers can promote gapping and act as an adhesive preventing normal expansion of the flooring.

 35.  The area is prone to moisture and/or high humidity, can I still have a wood floor?

              If using wood, Engineered is the floor of choice. However Ceramic tiles and  Vinyl may be best.

 36.  Full bathrooms and laundry rooms are fine for wood floor installation.

      Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.

      37.  Is your Aluminum Oxide floor finish harmful?

There are no issues with Aluminum Oxide floor finish. These microscopic  Aluminum Oxide crystals are added into the finishes. Once cured, it is completely safe for our children and pets.

 

It is recommended, however, to do all board cutting outside in order to protect against breathing even normal wood dust. It is in this dust state that Aluminum Oxide and wood fibers can have a respiratory effect on people.

  38. Do I have any way to get my technical installation questions answered?

     Yes, you do.  Just call 1-800-366-4204 and ask to speak with our installation specialists or leave a message. You can also go online and visit our web site and receive installation instructions and advice.

 

Myths and Facts About Engineered Hardwood

We want to make sure you understand some myths about Engineered hardwood and the facts behind it.  Here's an article to help you understand the truth about Engineered flooring.

Myth #1 - Engineered flooring is “fake.”

Fact #1 - Engineered Flooring is real wood! Engineered flooring sold at Lumber Liquidators consists of a decorative hardwood veneer atop plies of premium quality, hardwood plywood. Even an HDF core is real wood that has been compacted into a dense, impact-resistant format.

Myth #2 - Engineered flooring is cheap and won’t last.

Fact #2 - Engineered flooring can be economical, but durability is not compromised. Multi-ply hardwood or high-quality HDF cores provide structural stability and all Schon, Bellawood and Virginia Mill Works engineered products have premium quality finish to protect the hardwood veneer and resist normal wear and tear. Warranties of 30 or 50 years show that this flooring is built to last.

Myth #3 - Engineered flooring looks bad & my neighbors will know I didn’t buy solid wood.

Fact #3 - Most engineered flooring at Lumber Liquidators is made in Random Length format to avoid a repetitive appearance. Thanks to REAL HARDWOOD veneers, once the flooring is installed, you cannot tell the difference between solid and engineered planks. Also, because more planks can be derived from every tree, Engineered flooring can be more cost effective, which gives customers access to beautiful exotic species they may not think they can afford.

Myth #4 - Engineered flooring can’t be refinished.

Fact #4 - Engineered flooring with veneers of 2mm thickness or more can be refinished at least once. Veneers of 0.6mm cannot be refinished, but flooring can usually be professionally buffed or polished to remove surface scratches and renew luster. In reality, today’s customer does not stay in a home as long as they used to and most people will never have to redo their floors. With premium quality finish that contains scratch and abrasion resistant agents, Schon or Bellawood Engineered flooring will still be going strong, long after the customer has left the home. (Note: Virginia Mill Works hand scraped products are not recommended for refinishing.)

Myth #5 - Engineered flooring is more complicated to install.

Fact #5 - With proper milling, Engineered flooring is no more difficult to install than Solid Hardwood flooring. In fact, Engineered flooring is very popular with DIY customers and convenient Quick Clic options provide fast, easy flooring solutions for every budget.

Myth #6 - Engineered flooring is only good for basements and condos.

Fact #6 - Engineered flooring IS a great option for below grade applications, but it can also be installed in virtually any room of a home or building. By design, the plies of Engineered flooring work together to offset the natural movement of real wood. Therefore, Engineered hardwood flooring remains flat and delivers enhanced stability during normal seasonal and environmental changes that occur in every home, and can be more reliable in humid climates. Engineered flooring can be nailed, glued, or floated and can be installed above or below grade, on concrete and over radiant heat applications.* (Most Species)

Myth #7 - Size matters! When it comes to veneers, thicker is better.

Fact #7 - Not always. Plank stability can vary greatly depending upon veneer, species, construction design, and climate.
Some species are inherently prone to checking or cracking if the veneer is too thick. Exotic species can be especially problematic if oils in the veneer react with the adhesives required to bond the wood plies. Thinner veneers yield less oil and can thus be more effective for the long-term performance of the flooring.
Construction is another critical component of Engineered flooring performance. Because one layer balances the next, the design can make or break the plank. If the core is not properly balanced with the veneer, the stronger layer will eventually prevail and cause the layers to strain, flex and bend.
Climate also has an impact on long-term durability. In very arid climates, for example, thinner veneers can remain beautiful for years whereas thick veneers react negatively to the lack of moisture by cupping or cracking.
In reality, Engineered flooring is a science. Lumber Liquidators needs to fully understand your needs in order to make the right suggestion. Thicker is NOT always better, but Lumber Liquidators will have a solution for every situation because care is taken in understanding every client’s environment.

Myth #8 - “I just saw the same thing at Woody’s World of Wood for $2 less!”

Fact #8 - Probably not. When evaluating pricing, the following should be considered:
•Veneer Thickness
•Plank Length & Style: How long are the planks? Are they Random Length or Fixed Length? Are the planks truly a single piece as the specs claim, or are listed dimensions achieved by joining two or more narrow/short pieces of wood?
•Wood Grade: Is the veneer clean or are there large knots, putty repairs, cracks, etc.?
•Finish: Is it clear or milky? Can it be easily scratched with a finger nail or blunt object?
•Species: Is it really Ebony, or a clever name that is meant to confuse, like Ebony Ash?
•Warranty: Finish? Structure? 5, 25 or 50 years?

Cold Floors? Radiant Heat and the Best Floors For Them

Cold floors?  It's that time of year again and radiant heated floors can help.   Before you buy, check out our species and styles most recommended for this application.

As you may know, some wood species are better candidates for radiant heat installation than others.  If you prefer solid wood floors, chose a species know for its stability.  Here is the order for best floor type selections as recommended by the National Wood Flooring Associations (NWFA).

Floating Wood Floors and Laminates - Highly recommended because they tend to move as a total unit better accommodating moisture and temperature changes.

Engineered Flooring - Works well with radiant heat because of its dimensionally stable plywood construction.  This construction allows each wood layer to run perpendicular to the other thereby resisting movement and moisture fluctuations.

Quarter Sawn or Rift-Sawn Flooring - This cut or style of flooring is preferable to plain sawn because it will expand upwards and downwards from elevated moisture, not side to side, producing less gapping and board edge cupping.

Strip Flooring  - A better choice than plank flooring because narrow board expand and contract less than wide boards do because there are more seams in a floor to take up or allow for any excessive board movement.

If you choose to use solid boards or planks wider than 3", make sure the board moisture content is dry, around 6-9% before, and maintained well after installation.  For any wood application over radiant heat, the newly installed system should be operating some two weeks prior to the floor installation.  This helps to further dry out any unknown pockets of trapped moisture.  Acclimation is critical with radiant heat installations to prevent board shock.  In no case should radiant heat exceed 85 degrees.  Maintain indoor humidity levels around 35-55%.

Although common red and white oak have been used successfully, species 15-20% higher in stability than red oak are considered ideal choices.  See our Stability Chart for boards listed on the higher stability spectrum.

It is true that Brazilian Cherry is more stable than red oak.  However, we do not recommend it for radiant heat applications.  Due to the sustained high heat associated with radiant heat, it can have a negative impact on Brazilian Cherry.  Natural oils, calcification, and other properties of this species can slowly migrate to the surface just under the clear top finishes manifested as small whitish oxidation spots.  This whitish calcification is a characteristic of the species, not a defect.  Individual boards showing this can be replaced with new boards, it cannot be sanded out.

Good Species for Radiant Heat Applications: Bamboo, Australian Cypress, Bolivian Rosewood, Koa, Mesquite, Teaks, Bloodwood, and Mahogany. 

Poor Species for Radiant Heat Applications: Maple, Beech, and Birch

*Wood Stability - A measured amount of movement that can be expected in some species of wood after installation.  Species stability is directly related to local humidity, temperature, and surface moisture.  Therefore, acclimation for radiant heat is very important for a successful installation.

Note - Even when using and ideal species for radiant heat applications, actual wood performance can still vary due to the radiant heat system construction, installation techniques, as well as your region of the country. 

Helpful Tips Before Doing a Glue Down Flooring Installation

Bob, our in-house installer (who I will be introducing soon), gave me this helpful guide if you are planning to glue down your floor.  These tips are designed to be a helpful guide but aren't meant to be all inclusive or take the place of your installer.  It's really best to consult with a professional flooring installer for their advice as they can see all the issues with your specific installation.

Flooring Selection- Lumber Liquidators recommends engineered flooring for glue-down application or the more stable species of solid wood.  Select sizes under 3/4" thick. 

Acclimation- Wood and cork flooring will need to acclimate in the installation area.  The room should be conditioned between 65-85 F and 35-55% relative humidity, these levels need to be maintained.  The HVAC system should be function an wet trades complete prior to installation (aka, new cement).  Don't lay your floor until the correction are made.  Poor acclimation can result in excessive board squeaking and gaps and is not manufacturer related.

Concrete Sub-floor- Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60-90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured with a meter specifically designed for concrete moisture measurements.  The moisture vapor measurement must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours using the calcium chloride test.  This is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab.  Calcium chloride test kids are available at most flooring supply distributors.  Moisture testing only determines the presence of moisture at the time of measurement.  Of greater concern is future moisture passing up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.

PRE-INSTALLATION INSPECTION

1. The installer is the final quality inspector.

2. “Racking out” the floor or laying out each piece allows the installer to visually inspect the flooring for imperfections that can be cut out or adjustments made before installing.

 3.  Defective boards if used should be set aside or relocated to hidden places (such as a closet) by the installer.  If a board has an unacceptable defect (hole, split, crack, etc.) the installer should cut it out or set it aside.

4. Generally, a minimum of 5% should be added to the actual square footage needed as an allowance for cutting waste in domestic woods and 8-10% for exotics. Some species like Australian Cypress may have a larger expected “scrap” ratio due to the characteristics of the species.  Replace these boards using the added 5 – 10% of material ordered for the job. If you have a higher than average scrap rate and are unable to complete your installation, take samples to the store nearest you. Bellawood liability is limited to replacement of defective material only in excess of 5% (excluding the cutting allowance).

6. The use of stain, touch-up pen or filler stick for correction during installation is accepted as normal procedure.

7. “Repairs” - Always keep a partial box from your initial installation for any future repairs or board replacement.

8. “Touch-up markers” or color filler sticks used for correcting nicks or chips during and after pre-finished wood installation is a normal procedure.

9. Do not allow adhesives to dry out or skin-over before placing boards.

10. Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers and 100% urethane wood flooring adhesives

11. To ensure glue transfer, glue manufactures recommend rolling the flooring throughout installation using a 100 lb roller

12.  For the best result, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer’s product line.

13.  Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).

14.  During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.

15. Follow glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.

16. Intermix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.

17. Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.

18. Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured (incorrect tape can harm the finish.) During installation tape together 4 or 5 board rows at 18” intervals.

19. Discard twisted or warped boards.

20. [CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment. 

 Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean fresh adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

What is an Engineered Hardwood Floor?

I will be honest, when I first started at Lumber Liquidators, I had no idea what an engineered floor was.  At first I thought it was a laminate, but it's not!  The two are very different.  I will discuss laminates another day, but today, we'll concentrate on engineered flooring.

Engineered hardwood is constructed with layers of hardwood veneer, glued and heat pressed together to create a product that can range in thickness from 5/16" up to 9/16", having 3 to 8 plys or layers.  The top veneer can ranging in thickness up to 1/4", depending on the manufacturer.  But it is REAL HARDWOOD.  In order to create an engineered hardwood, these plys or layers are stocked on top of each other with each layer or grain of the wood facing perpendicular to each other. 

Once the desired thickness is achieve, the boards are then cut into the correct board width.  From there, the boards are then manufactured to have a tongue or groove on the edges.  The final step is to add stain and finish.  By design, engineered hardwood becomes less susceptible to the effects of moisture and temperature fluctuations.  Therefore, engineered hardwood is referred to as being dimensionally stable.  Solid hardwood is not as efficient in dimensional stability because the grain throughout the board runs in only one direction.  The positive stability of engineered hardwood allows it to be glued directly to concrete, above or below grade, and is also perfect for radiant heat applications.

Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.

A moisture barriers over concrete is always recommended.  Some styles of engineered flooring can be stapled down, nailed down, glued to cement, or floated.

We offer several brands of engineered hardwood as well as a few unique options including handscraped, exotic woods, and Quick Clic.  If you want hardwood but just aren't sure it's right, check out engineered flooring.  It may be the answer you've been looking for.