Lumber Liquidators

Moisture Test! Water & Wood Don't Mix

Approximately 85% of all installation failures are resulting from moisture problems. Therefore, the purpose of this post is to outline typical moisture testing, planning and procedures designed to help your installation be a successful one.

The installation of Lumber Liquidators, Inc.("LLI") wood flooring should not commence until conditions are determined to be "dry" according to industry moisture testing standards. Testing is to include, (a) the new wood flooring, (b) the wood subfloor or cement slab.

It is the responsibility of the professional flooring contractor or the Do-It-Yourselfer (DIY) to inspect and test jobsite moisture conditions prior to the commencement of any flooring system to ensure compliance with established hardwood industry standards. It is understood that moisture testing only establishes the existence of moisture at the time of testing and does not forecast future moisture issues. Installers would not be held responsible for moisture problems arising after the installation providing testing was conducted and normal moisture remediation was completed before installation. The point of moisture testing is to establish when the new flooring and substrate is actually ready for installation or the need to reschedule the work until conditions are acceptable.

Testing concrete

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST

THE POLYFILM TEST

THE PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless

Testing concrete
LLI does not recommend installation of any flooring system over a newly-installed concrete slab within 60 days of pour. Concrete slab drying time is affected by the type of construction, concrete formulation, location of the building and climatic/environmental conditions. Vapor barriers or under-slab membranes, while recommended, can increase slab-drying times, therefore accurate testing should not commence until after some 90 days of cure time. When conducting slab moisture testing, conduct tests in several areas regardless of the age of the slab. If the test(s) indicate a wet slab, document the results and delay installation of the flooring until corrected.
The use of an electronic concrete moisture meter to determine slab moisture emission is not reliable nor recommended. This is because electronic meters measure moisture content in the slab, usually in terms of an overall percentage and register moisture content only at 1% of the surface, while other meters register an average only in a vertical downward direction where placed. Metered moisture content values may indicate degree of saturation of a slab, but not the on-going emission rate that is occurring at the time.

The Following are several industry-recognized concrete slab moisture tests that provide quantitative measurements of moisture emission. All tests should be conducted at several different locations in a room--typically along exterior walls and walls with plumbing enclosures.

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST: The calcium chloride test is one of the oldest and most legally recognized concrete moisture tests. This test has been used most often by flooring retailers and contractors. The cost can run about $50 or $60 per test. Depending on the kit purchased results can be acquired immediately, or sent away for documentation and reading. The calcium chloride test works by measuring changes in weight of anhydrous calcium chloride crystals.

Typical procedure: a small plastic dish of anhydrous calcium crystals is weighed to determine moisture content. 1st, after sanding or scarifying the cement surface (fig 1) the entire dish is weighed on a gram scale prior to placement and the weight, date and time the test was started must be recorded. The lid is then opened, and the dish of crystals is carefully set down on the concrete for 60 to 72 hours. The dish is enclosed within a 7-by-10-inch cover, which is then sealed with plastic tape to the concrete (fig 2). During this time, the only source of moisture being absorbed by the anhydrous crystals is what can evaporate out of the covered concrete surface area. A note of caution: Use care in lid dealing and removal of the dish, and weighing as exposure to atmosphere will dramatically effect the results.

At the end of the test, the dome is removed and the lid is placed back on the dish and sealed. Again the dish is weighed on the gram scale and the date and time are marked. The change in weight is multiplied by a constant and divided by hours to provide an estimated rate of evaporation, in pounds.

(fig1)
(fig2)

For example, water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Pounds, is the equivalent weight of water that evaporates out of a 1,000-square foot surface area during 24 hours. If the test reports 8.3 pounds emission, then one-gallon of water is leaving a 1,000 square foot surface area in 24 hours. A conservative but generally recommended allowable amount of moisture emission as expressed by the calcium chloride test is 3.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours at the time of the installation of the flooring.

THE POLYFILM TEST: Several pieces of plastic film, 18”- 24” squares of are placed at key points on the cement, seal all four sides with silver duct tape. After 24 hours, the plastic film is removed and inspected for signs of condensation. If beads of water are found on the subfloor or the concrete appears darker this is a heads-up that further testing is necessary. If there is no indication of moisture under the plastic film, one can assume the installation may proceed. The reading is valid at 24 hours, but it's even better if the test can stay in place until 72 hours have passed. The plastic film test can also be "accelerated" by using a heat source such as a 40 to 60 watt light bulb safely placed 18” above the plastic.

PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST: This moisture test uses a 3 percent phenolphthalein solution (fig1) in water-free ethyl alcohol. Dime sized holes,1/4-inch deep, are drilled in various areas of the slab, particularly around walls. Then two drops of the solution are applied into each of the drilled areas. If there's no color change in the solution, there should not be enough moisture and the alkalinity is not high enough to affect the installation. But if the phenolphthalein turns pink or dark red within five minutes and the pH is 9.0 or higher, further testing must be done with a more precise method. This should NOT be the only method used for testing moisture. Color of concrete surfaces: The "proper" color of concrete should be a light yellowish-grey (similar to limestone) not sugar white. In fact, a sugar-white surface usually means the concrete was improperly cured and can create a severe moisture problem later on (usually months later). This is due to the poor hydration of cement within the surface, creating a disproportionately high water to cement ratio...that appears white.
(fig1)
(fig2)

pH paper or litmus paper test:
Both the phenolphthalein and litmus paper tests measure the alkalinity of the surface of the concrete. Determining if cement is alkali free is important for glue down installations on concrete. Excess alkalinity(salts) can contribute to adhesive failure. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. However, it is the excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete, as this condition will deposit the excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test (fig2) will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface. Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and apply a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above10.

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless Probe or pin-type meters (fig1) are fast and easy to use. They come with different measurement indicators. The lower-cost units have L.E.D. display lights indicating different moisture levels; the better-quality units have analog or digital displays and provision for different species and wood temperatures.

The pinless meters (fig2) are also referred to as "non-destructive" because these don't leave small testing holes in the wood. Signal penetration for pinless meters is up to 1 inch for both hardwood and softwood. The meter can be moved across the surface to identify pockets of moisture in a wood block or plank. It is relatively unaffected by temperature. Rough surfaces have very little effect on the reading. Measurements can also be taken through coating, varnish or paint without damage to the surface.

One advantage of probe type meters is that those with insulated pins can measure moisture content at varying depths--you can tell whether the moisture content near the bottom of a board is higher than near the top.

Deciding which kind of moisture meter to buy is a matter of sorting through the features you think you will need, and how often you may use it, and then understanding the various features and benefits. It is important that the meter you choose offers the following:

• A clear analog or digital dial.
• A moisture content range from at least 6 percent to 30 percent.
• The necessary adjustment tables for various species; (some meters have a built in adjustment for this function)

(fig1)

(fig2)

Testing Wood Subfloors: Wood subfloors are actually easy to check for moisture content. Just test for moisture at several locations in the room and average the results (fig1). In most regions of the country, a "dry" wood subfloor that is ready to work has a moisture content of 12 percent or less, or down to about 7% in states with low (RH) relative humidity. If excessively high readings are obtained, installation should not proceed until the origin of the moisture is identified and moisture problems are remedied. During the winter, an overly moist subfloor can be dried out by running the heat for a few weeks. Air conditioning during the summer will do the same thing.
Before installation, the moisture content of the subfloor should be within 4% percentage points of the new flooring (fig2). If the moisture content between the new flooring and subflooring varies more than 4 percentage points or 2% for boards wider than 2 1/2” the flooring should not be installed.
fig1) 

(fig2)

Please direct inquiries to Lumber Liquidators Technical Department at 800-366-4204

Hey vets, come home and don't go anywhere else.

Installing Bellawood ¾” Solid Wood Over Concrete

Many homes are on a concrete slab and a big question we often get is how to install over concrete.  So I asked our great guys over at Tech & Install to give us some ideas on how to install 3/4" solid Bellawood over concrete.

1^st method: Floating plywood subfloor system:

Concrete should be clean and level up to 1/8” over 6’. Apply a 6mil mil poly sheeting over the concrete overlapping the seams 6 inches and tape with duct tape.  Install a layer of 1/2” plywood over the poly sheeting. Next install a second layer of 1/2” plywood at a 45 degree angle to the first layer. Screw the top layer of plywood to the bottom layer. Be sure not to penetrate the poly sheeting with the screws.  Allow for a ½” expansion space between the plywood and any walls and 1/8” gap between square edge plywood panels. Last install 15lb black roofing paper over the plywood and install the flooring over the roofing paper. When installing the flooring use 1 ½” fasteners to prevent nails from going through the plywood.

 

2^nd method: Elastilon underlayment:

Elastilon is a 1/8” thick underlayment with a self adhesive system.  To use this product over concrete you will have to apply a 6 mil poly sheeting over the concrete first, overlapping the seam 6” and tape with duct tape. Roll out the Elastilon perpendicular to the direction of your floor installation. Butt the seams of the Elastion together (do not overlap). Next begin your installation of the flooring following Elastilons’ installation instructions. When using Elastilon cull out badly bowed or twisted board and add 15% more wood for waste.

ELASTILON underlayment installation

One Project Closer: Brazilian Walnut Installation & Review

Hey guys, we love when people actually show us what they did with their wood floors.  The folks over at One Project Closer installed Bellawood Brazilian Walnut and a couple of months later, reviewed us & the flooring.  To see more about their project visit HERE.

To see their review, click HERE.

We want to thank them for being honest and doing a great job installing.  Their floors look amazing and they really took the time and effort necessary to install flooring correctly.

How to Install Bellawood Prefinished Hardwood Floors

To help you with your installation project, I asked the Tech & Install team to provide me with instructions for installing your new Bellawood prefinished floor if you choose to tackle the project yourself.

For a print out version and approved installation methods, please download the attachment that is part of this post. 

PRODUCT USEAGE
Bellawood® solid prefinished domestic and exotic products are installed using standard hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. While Professional installers have preferences, both types work well. Installers also understand how species variations will affect workability. Some species tend to be very hard, others somewhat brittle during nailing. These natural characteristic are not considered defects. To prevent board damage, nailing methods such as hand nailing may be required when installing the harder species like Rose wood, Walnut or Teaks. See our nailing recommendations.
The Bellawood® solid lower profile flooring sizes (1/2”- 5/16”) is installed using specially designed pneumatic hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. Ensure that you are using the correct sized fasteners and adaptors. These sizes can also be glued to plywood or with an approved moisture barrier can be glued on concrete. DO NOT nail or glue solid products below-grade.
Bellawood® can also be installed over in-floor radiant heat, however not all species are recommended for this application. Choose species with higher stability ratings and always use moisture barriers, details are outlined in this document. Installations outside these guidelines are viewed as experimental.

OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITIES - Install flooring in proper lighting
Exotic and domestic hardwoods are beautiful and unique products of nature characterized by distinctive variations in grain pattern and color. These natural variations are not flaws; rather they make up the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring and should be expected. Only topically stained products will have the most uniformity in color or shade. Our floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%, of a manufacturing or natural type. When flooring is ordered, depending on layout or species, 8 - 12% extra material should be added to the actual square footage needed for board selection and cutting. Diagonal layouts or custom installations usually require about 15% more. During installation any boards deemed unacceptable should be replaced using the extra material ordered. The use of putty, stains, filler sticks or touch up markers to correct defects in prefinished wood during installation is accepted as a normal procedure. Board width variances are considered normal for boards and all organic materials. To minimize board edge gapping, board widths greater than 1/16” should be selected out and used all together in the same row or placed in closets or near walls. The customer/installer assumes responsibility for final inspection of product quality. Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installing. Use reasonable selectivity and judgment, select out or cut off pieces with glaring defects. If more than 5% of the material is unusable contact your local store or call CUSTOMER CARE 800-366-4204 immediately. Before beginning the installation the installer must determine if job site and subfloor conditions are acceptable. Installers must be up-to-date with installation procedures.

Lumber Liquidators denies any responsibility for problems arising from job site failures, environmental or moisture issues, inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors, poor installations and improper tool usage.

JOB SITE INSPECTION
For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

ACCLIMATION/CONDITIONING THE FLOORING
Wood products are affected by environmental conditions. Before installation, acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed 10-14 days for most dense exotic species or 2 – 7 days for domestic (North American) species to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and constant indoor humidity levels of 35% - 55%. Very dry or humid regions may require extended conditioning. Proper acclimation levels maintained after installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper acclimation is the responsibility of purchaser/installer.

HANDLE WITH CARE
To prevent board warping or bowing; do not cut the packaging plastic support bindings until ready to install. Do not stand flooring on ends or sides. Do not store directly on bare concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed as close to the center of the installation area as possible. Store flat, supporting the ends and center sections. Store in a dry place being sure to provide air flow under and around cartons. Keep out of direct sunlight and away from air vents.

VENTILATED CRAWL SPACES

To prevent moisture build-up homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation. Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape.

Delay installation until the above guidelines are completed.

MOISTURE
[CAUTION] Lumber Liquidators recommends the use of moisture barriers. Most installation failures result from a moisture imbalance. All subfloors must be tested for moisture content. Know your moisture levels and document the readings. Do not deliver flooring to the jobsite until moisture problems are corrected.

Wood subfloors: Determine if conditions are dry before installing. Wood subfloor moisture reading must not exceed 12%; the ideal moisture content within new wood flooring is 6%-9%. The differential balance between new boards and subfloor must not exceed 4% or 2% for board widths over 2 1/4”. If moisture readings are too high, postpone the installation, find the moisture source and correct. Raise heat and increase ventilation, holding off installation until proper conditions are met. Do not use pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.

Concrete subfloor: Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60 to 90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured. Moisture testing establishes the presence of moisture at the time of measurement. Of greater concern is future moisture transferring up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.

CEMENT MOISTURE TESTING PROCEDURES
Calcium chloride test is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab. The emission of moisture through the slab must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours. Calcium chloride test kits are available at most flooring supply distributors.

Phenolphthalein tests may also be performed by using a 3% phenolphthalein solution in water-free alcohol. Drill dime-sized holes, ¼" deep, in various areas of the concrete slab, particularly around the walls. Then apply two drops of the solution into each of the drilled holes. If there is no color change in the solution, then there is not enough moisture to affect the installation. If the solution turns pink or dark red within five minutes, further testing must be done with a moisture Encounter meter or calcium chloride test kit.

A simple “condensation test” may be performed by taping 18"x18" polyethylene sheets in several locations on the concrete slab. Lamps are then placed close enough to warm these areas and allowed to remain in place for 48 hours. Moisture under the plastic sheets or darkening of the concrete surface under the sheets is an indication of moisture in the concrete.

Alkalinity test recommended for gluedowns. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. Alkali is excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete depositing excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface; Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and place a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above 10. Contact adhesive manufacturer for corrective instructions.

Wood floor owner and installer are solely and jointly responsible for site conditions, pre-installation moisture checking of new floor and subfloor and must ensure that all conditions and specifications listed in this guide have been thoroughly met prior to installation.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Do not install flooring directly over joist without subflooring.
All structural panels/underlayment must be installed sealed-side down, and provide ¾” perimeter spacing. Square-edged or non tongue and grooved panels used as a subfloor will require a minimum 1/8˝ (3 mm) expansion space between all plywood seams.
Panels must meet minimum CDX grade Exposure 1 and US Voluntary Product Standard PS1-95, PS2-04 or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92 for construction sheathing. Check underside of panel for codes. Minimum of 3/8˝panel thickness is recommended when used as an underlayment.

Note that joist spacing determines minimum subfloor thickness.
• Joist spacing 16” on center (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (5/8˝) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”) Advantech Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing 16” up to 19.2” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing over 19.2”up to maximum 24” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (7/8”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (1”)
• Particleboard or Masonite: is not recommended, remove or cover with 3/8” plywood.
•Avoid pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.

Flat wood subfloors
• The final surface must be flat to within 3/16" in a 6' radius, or within ¼” in 10’. Subfloor must be securely nailed or screwed down to joists to prevent movement or squeaks. Install over 16” center-to-center joist sub-structure. Thoroughly inspect and replace existing floor or subfloor that shows evidence of water damage or structural weakness. Check for and repair any sagging or loose sections of a wood subfloor. Squeaky or loose boards should be re-nailed. An uneven or cupped wood subfloor is an indication of excess moisture, identify and correct. High spots may be planed or sanded down. Low spots should be cut out and repaired or may be filled with old pieces of firm vinyl or build up with 30 lb. black roofing paper. Do not fill low areas under naildown flooring with cement patches as these will break down over time.

Flat concrete
• A flat cement surface is very important when gluing down ridged solid wood. The final surface must be flat to within 1/8" in a 6' radius, or within 3/16” in 10’. Sand or grind down high spots. Fill valleys or low areas with cement based leveling compounds compatible with the flooring adhesives. Allow extra drying time for the leveling compounds. Do not install on new concrete less than 60-90 days old.

GENERAL INFORMATION (all installations)
• Customers are advised to be home during the installation for consultation.
• Customer and installer should discuss installation and layout to maximize satisfaction.
• Inspect flooring during installation.
• Maintain proper perimeter expansion gap.
• Trim bottom of the door frame with handsaw to insert boards underneath.
• Avoid board grouping. Board sizes should be intermingled.
• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color, shade and appearance.
• Save a box of flooring for use in future repairs.
• After installation, do not fully cover the new installation with plastic or paper. Moisture or board discoloration issues may result.
• Because jobsite conditions can be dry today and wet tomorrow the use of moisture barriers are recommended.

Board placements (all installation methods)
Incorrect

          
(Fig 1) Avoid board-end "line-up"                        (Fig 2) Avoid "H" Joints

Typically, board stagger is three times a board’s width. Proper board placement provides greater floor strength and better overall appearance of the floor.

(¾”) SOLID WOOD FASTENER SELECTION refer to [EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS] CLEAT NAILER (examples) 16 gage
Power Nailer 445 (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-323-1653

Bostich MIIFN      (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-556-6696

Cleats      

STAPLER (examples) 15 gage
Bostich MIIIFS    (Pneumatic)     staples 1/2” wide     1 ½”- 2” long
Powernail 445FS (Pneumatic)                  1/2” wide     1 ½”- 2” long

Staples

(5/16” to 5/8”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required

CLEAT NAILER (example) 18-20 gage cleats
Powernail Model 200p/250m/50p/50m (Pneumatic) Cleat nails     1”- 1 ½ ” long

(3/8”- 5/16”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required

STAPLER (examples) 18-20 gage Staples
Bostich LHF97125-2-20       (Pneumatic) staples 1”- 1 ¼” long     800-556-6696
SPOTNAILS WS4840W2      (Pneumatic)              1”- 1 ¼” long     800-323-1653
SENCO SLS20HF                     (Pneumatic)               1”                        800-543-4596
PORTA-NAIL 475                   (Pneumatic)               1”                        800-634-9281

Important: Set air compressor to 70-80 PSI. Test and adjust air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. Make sure that the fastening machine is fully adjustable, is in good working condition, is at the appropriate angle and seats properly against the tongue of the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.

[EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS]:

• Tongue fracture and surface dimpling during installation is common and can be minimized by (1) Installing the flooring in proper lighting (2) using the correct nail thickness, (3) using the recommended shoe adaptor, or (4) changing the angle of nail entry.
• To further reduce the occurrence of surface dimpling and tongue fracture the use of flooring nailers with a thinner 18-20 gage cleat nail may be needed for the harder exotics species. In addition, many installers will sometimes temporarily adjust the nailer angle by applying layers of duct tape to the bottom foot plate of the nailer. The use of an over-size base or foot plate to distribute the nailing force is encouraged. If however, surface dimpling or tongue fracture occurs when nailing the denser species, drilling pilot holes and hand nailing may be required.
• Use caution when fastening the harder exotics with Staplers. The drive bar in Staplers are wider and if fasteners are overdriven can act like a wood chisel, splitting tongues. Do not mix fasteners when nailing. Staples and cleats hold differently, when mixed can result in irregular seasonal gapping and or movement. When face or top nailing, pick areas of the grain or pattern that would best hide touch-up fillers.
• If nailers prove difficult fastening the lower profile 3/8”or 5/16” floors, many installers will use 100% urethane wood floor adhesives rather than nailers, especially with the more brittle species like; Australian Cypress, Brazilian Walnut, Teaks. Do not use significantly bowed, crooked or twisted boards. Use a wood spline or slip tongue whenever a change of board direction is needed, wood splines should be both glued and nailed into place. Forcing or pounding floor boards together with a rubber mallet during assembly may burse or damage unprotected board edges.

NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Starting point, first three rows. When installing over crawl spaces or rooms over basements use 15 lb. black roofing paper to provide some protection against moisture vapors, butt seam edges together. Red rosin paper may be used where there are no moisture issues. Install the flooring perpendicular to the floor joist. Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.
(1) Determine the starting wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark the floor the width of the floor plus the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Snap on the floor a chalk line connecting the two floor marks. While maintaining the expansion space, place the groove side along the starting wall and align the tongue side of the first row of boards on the chalk line. THE FIRST THREE ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Pre-drill and top nail the first row of boards only. Hand nail the following rows until nailing machines can be used.
(4) Next, rack-out or lay-out the floor for best visual appearance and adjust before nailing the floor.

[CAUTION]: When top nailing pre-finished wood it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail. Although pneumatic nailers are faster they easily damage the wood surface and finishes. Ensure that the nailer is not damaging the pre-finished wood.

COMPLETING THE FLOOR
• During installation, work several rows at a time, REFER to nailing schedule below. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 4”to 6˝ when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance. Top-nail the first and last rows where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or finish nailer.
• Rip or cut final row to fit and top-nail. If the final row is less than 1˝ in width it should first be edge-glued to the last UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one board.

Fastener spacing recommendations are based on board size; per (NWFA)

• Board size 2 ¼”wide x 3/4″ thick, nail placement is every 8”-10″ apart and a nail placed within 1- 3″ of each end, with at least two nails per board
• 3″w x 3/4″ place fasteners 6”- 8″ apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 4”to 8”w x 3/4″ place fasteners 6”- 8″apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 5/16” thick solid and all engineered flooring place fasteners 3”- 4”apart (for staples), 4”- 6” (for nails) and within 1- 2″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 3/8” thick, place fasteners 6”- 8”apart and within 1- 2″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• ½” thick, place fasteners 10” apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board

GLUE DOWN OVERVIEW

[TIPS]:
• Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers
• Wood floor adhesives alone are not moisture barriers.
•Glue manufacture may recommend rolling the floor throughout installation to ensure glue transfer
• For the best results, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer
• Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture.  (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).
• During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.
• Discard twisted or warped boards.
•Follow the glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.
• Mix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.
•Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.
•Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals. (Incorrect tape can harm the finish.)

[CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be advised that over-strapping wood could adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards or out-of-square floor board alignment.

ADHESIVES

Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean wet adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

Manufacturer
Mapei 800-992-6273                                                             Bostiks 800-523-6530
WFM a moisture barrier                                                           MVP a moisture barrier
Ultrabond 980, 990 solid wood adhesives                          BBA a solid wood adhesive
Eco 995 An all-in-one adhesive and moisture barrier         Vapor-Lock An all-in-one adhesive                                                                                                         and moisture barrier

TYPICAL TROWELS AND APPROXIMATE COVERAGES*

Examples shown are for estimating purposes only. Have several trowel sizes on hand as actual jobsite coverage will vary.

For moisture barriers and 5/16” to 3/8” solid wood         Coverage est.

3/16" x 5/32"                                        70 to 80 sq. ft/U.S. gal.

1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4"                             30 to 40 sq. ft./U.S. gal.

1/4" x 3/16" x 1/2"                       40 to 45 sq. ft./U.S. gal.

For solid wood aim for 95% glue-to-board coverage, 80" for engineered.

GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1
(1) Determine the starting wall, usually the longest foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark on the floor the width of several rows of boards, (this could be 12”to 24”) include the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Next, use a chalk line to connect the two marks. Follow this chalked line when applying both the adhesive and boards. THE FIRST ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Using an approved trowel and wood flooring adhesive, glue the first few rows in the dry area, between the wall and chalk line.
(4) First row only. Using a table saw remove the tongue part, then place the tongue side towards the wall with groove side facing outwards. Lay flooring into the adhesive following the straight line. Stay off the new hardwood while working.
(5) Progressively lay-in the next boards by engaging the tongue and groove then drop board into adhesive. Avoid dragging or sliding boards together as this can trap or squeeze glue up in between the boards creating gaps. Continue working 4 or 5 rows together, then measure and cut the last boards as needed to complete the rows.
(6) The balance of a board cut is used to start a new row, discard lengths under 6”. Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger the ends of the boards correctly. Smaller boards should be intermixed throughout the installed floor. A tapping block can be used to gently tap the boards into proper position. During installation, end gaps between boards can be minimized by temporarily locking a completed row in place by using spacers placed between the wall and the last board of each row, remove when glue has dried.
(7) Repeat the process. Chalk new lines, spread adhesive and continue working 4 or 5 rows together until completed.

INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Step 2:
•Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be trimmed so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. It should be glued and wedged into place. Leave all spacers in the expansion space until the adhesive has cured, then remove. Keep the floor free from foot traffic, until adhesive has cured.
• Do not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the subfloor.
• Occasionally lift a board and check for adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
• When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening and difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper ventilation within the room should be provided. Follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.

Post-installation
• After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and foot traffic.

• For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.

MOLDINGS & TRANSITIONS:
Installation Tips: acclimate wood moldings for best results
• Moldings should be predrilled to avoid splitting when nailing
•The tool of choice for cutting hardwood moldings is a 10” or 12” motorized miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5°, 45°, and 90°.
• A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts. Be sure the saw blade rotation is positioned to cut into the finished face.
•When installing wall base molding, place the bottom nail below the finished line of the quarter round.
• Attach wall base or quarter round moldings to the wall, never into the floor.
• Miter cuts hide better than square cuts.

1) Base Board – for hiding imperfections and adding a custom finish along any wall.
2) Quarter-Round - for covering the expansion left at walls and other fixed surfaces.
3&6) Reducer Moldings - used to transition to lower floors.
4) Stair Nosing - for finishing the exposed edges of stairs and landings.
5) T-Expansion - for joining two areas of flooring of similar heights.
7) End Cap - for finishing the space at sliding glass doors, at bath tubs or transitioning to carpet.

 

HARDWOOD REPAIRS
•Minor scratch or dent damage can be repaired with a touch-up or filler kit available at most home centers. Major damage may require individual board replacements and is best  accomplished by professional flooring installers.

SEASONAL CHANGES - What to Expect (all installation methods)
Seasonal gapping should be expected in all wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure.
It is normal that wood floors will be affected by fluctuating levels of humidity within the building. Care should be taken to control humidity levels to within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, note recommendations below:
• (Dry) Heating Season - A humidifier may be needed to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves, radiant floor heat and electric heat will create dryer conditions.
• (Humid, Wet) Non-Heating Season - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct expansion joints around the perimeter of your floor.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS
General Precautions and Recommendations - Always use moisture barriers.
Engineered wood flooring is the flooring of choice for radiant heat. However, when using solid wood make certain the product selected is recommended. Choose species highest in stability ratings for this application. Australian Cypress, Mesquite, Bamboo, and Teaks are good species choices. Brazilian Cherry is not recommended. Because of the wide array of systems on the market, each with its own features, please consult with your radiant flooring provider for recommended installation methods. Hydronic systems must include in-floor temperature sensors and an outdoor thermostat that allows the system to adjust the water temperature according to anticipated heat loss. Radiant heat contributes to the drying out of all woods. Use of a humidification system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level. The indoor relative humidity must be maintained between 35-55% year round. Failure to do so can result in edge cupping, squeaking delamination, splintering, or face checking. Avoid shock to the floor, Before installation, run new systems to dissipate hidden or trapped moisture. During installation, reduce thermostat to 65°F. 48 hours after installation, slowly raise the temperature of the heating system to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. The surface temperature of the subfloor must never exceed 85°F in any location. The temperature setting must always remain within 15°F of normal operating level, and should never be turned completely off. Excessive heat, rapid heating, and/or failure to maintain humidity levels between 35% and 55% is likely to result in cracking, cupping, squeaking and other forms of floor issues. Slight surface splits (checking), particularly at the ends of planks, should be expected with installations over radiant heat and does not constitute a product failure.

Test for moisture, This procedure must be followed regardless of the time of year.
Prior to installation over radiant heat, moisture testing must be conducted and documented. The moisture content for concrete substrates must not exceed 3.0 lbs. per 1000 square feet in 24 hrs per ASTM 1669-89 (Calcium Chloride Test). Wood subfloors should not exceed 12% using a pin type meter. Do not install the flooring until excess moisture is corrected.

RADIANT INSTALLATIONS Related information can be found on our website “Flooring 101”
(1) When nailing planks over radiant heat ensure that fasteners are holding the flooring without damage to the radiant system.
(2) When fully gluing planks over radiant heat ensure that the adhesives are recommended for this application.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
1. Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
2. For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, apply mineral spirits on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
3. Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with a recommended hard floor attachment (not a beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
4. Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for urethane finishes.
5. Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, joint-line separation and void the warranty.
6. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
7. Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine, these can generate heat or hot spots.
8. For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.

Protection
1. Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be tracked onto your floor.
2. Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor the flooring finish. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment approved for urethane finishes.
3. Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
4. Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35%-55% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
6. Do not walk on your floor with stiletto heels, shoes with sports cleats or exposed metal parts.
7. Do not allow sharp, pointed, or rough textured objects to be exposed to the hardwood flooring.
8. Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
9. UV sunlight will enhance the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees. Periodically rearranging your area rugs and furniture will allow the floor to antique or age evenly.
10. Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances; but first, put down a piece of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor.
11. A protective mat should be used for furniture or chairs with castors.
12. Use cleaning products safe for urethane finishes; never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
13. Lumber Liquidators does not endorse the use of steam cleaning machines on hard wood products, use at your own risk.
14. Toys and tools can scratch the finishes, scratches and dents are jobsite related, not warrantable.
15. If using the glue-down installation method, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours.

DO NOT INSTALL SOLID HARDWOOD PRODUCTS BELOW- GRADE

HELPFUL TOOL LISTING PER INSTALLATION METHOD
Nail down
■ Appropriate nailer and fasteners ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife ■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule ■ Carpenter’s square
■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
Glue down
■ Manufactures recommended cleaner ■ 100% Urethane moisture barrier and flooring adhesives ■ Correct trowel size ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ 2080 blue painters tape ■ Laminate pull or tapping bar ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife
■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule
■ Carpenter’s square ■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
■ 85-100 lb roller

TO OBTAIN ASSISTANCE WITH FLOORING PRODUCT INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT THE STORE OF ORIGINAL PURCHASE OR CONTACT CUSTOMER CARE AT 800-366-4204. VISIT THE “FLOORING 101” or www.lumberliquidators.com  Download Bellawood solid wood installation instructions 11 17 2010-1 FOR INSTALLATION TIPS AND ADDITIONAL WARRANTY INFORMATION.

CAUTION: WOOD DUST Cut wood flooring outside
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne wood
dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research
on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
Precautionary Measures: equipped power tools with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered; use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eye and skin. First Aid Measures in case of irritation: In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.

CAUTION: USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION

 

For everyday cleaning use a microfiber dust mop to pick up dust, grit, and pet hair off the flooring. You can also use a vacuum that is safe for wood flooring, but stay away from vacuums that have a beater bar. You also want a vacuum with good suction to get up grit they may get into the v-groove or in the cracks between planks. Vacuums that are light weight and have a soft rubber or felt bottom can work great. Periodically use our Bellawood floor cleaner to add a little luster to the flooring, but be sure to dust mop first before using the Bellawood cleaner. The cloth on the bottom of the cleaner should be clean before using for best results. If you have a sticky spill just spot clean with warm water on a lightly damp cloth and immediately buff dry.

Fast Fixes for Foreclosed Homes

Here is an ARA article where we are mentioned and I wanted to pass it along!

The high volume of foreclosed homes on the market is allowing some astute buyers to turn eyesores into eye-catching properties with only minimal investment. While not every property can be fixed up affordably, there are some common projects that dramatically improve a foreclosed home’s appeal and value.

“Many people are finding huge opportunities in fixing up foreclosures,” says Tom Sullivan, founder of Lumber Liquidators, the nation’s largest specialty retailer of hardwood flooring. “Most of these houses can be completely transformed with just a few improvements. Often, the fixes are easy enough to be do-it-yourself projects.”

Below are some popular cost-effective options for breathing new life into a home in need:

Add new countertops. The kitchen is one of the most important rooms in any home, since it is a space where people spend a lot of time—from cooking dinner to entertaining friends. One of the most dramatic changes that can be made to a kitchen is adding new countertops. It alters the appearance of the space by changing the color scheme, depth and texture of the whole room.

Countertops range in price depending on room size, type of material and mode of installation. In an average kitchen, a new laminate countertop starts at around $1,000, with granite or quartz ranging from $3,000 to $6,000. Butcher-block countertops are another attractive, yet cost-effective option. Williamsburg Butcher Block Company offers options in both Maple and American Cherry starting around $310.

Replace the bathtub. Foreclosed houses frequently come with water stains left by standing water in sinks, toilets and bathtubs. Updating a bathroom by installing a new bathtub not only removes the problem, but, because the tub is a core item, it creates a more pleasant feeling in the room. Bathtubs are available in many different styles and sizes, so there is likely to be one that suits any taste, from traditional to contemporary.

Bathtubs start at around $300, depending on the size and type of bathtub.

Trade carpeting for new wood flooring. Foreclosed houses are frequently abandoned with soiled carpet that continues to gather buildup over time. Mold is also common in homes that have been left bare for extended periods. To get rid of hidden odors, allergens, irritants and mold, replace carpet with wood, particularly in high-traffic areas such as living rooms and great rooms.

In addition to reviving these common areas, swapping carpet for wood adds style and creates a more spacious feel. The choice of wood can also make a big difference. Light wood colors can make a room appear larger, medium-toned woods can make a room appear more traditional and dark flooring can make a room appear warmer.

 “The introduction of so many new species, colors and types of wood flooring in recent years gives homeowners a lot of options when renovating a room at different price points,” says Sullivan.

 Laminate flooring can deliver the appearance of solid hardwoods, but costs less than $1 per square foot at places like Lumber Liquidators. This allows budget-DIYers the ability to transform a 400-square-foot area for as little as $750.

 In addition to making a foreclosed home look new again, completing these easy and affordable updates can go a long way in restoring the value of the property when it comes time to sell.

Bellawood Brazilian Cherry, There's a Reason it's Popular

Bellawood Brazilian Cherry is one of our most popular flooring options.  And for good reason.  Not only is it beautiful, but it also durable.  It can make any space look elegant.  I actually have it in my home!  And it's beautiful and gets more beautiful over time.

Bellawood, our flagship line, offers both traditional domestic and exotic floors.  It also has a 50 year, UV-cure aluminum oxide finish.  No messy sanding or varnishing, you just install your floor and you're ready to go!

Brazilian Cherry is known for it's color, hardness, and durability.  Now remember, no two floors will look the same.  Brazilian Cherry shows a variety of colors from golden brown to reddish brown.  It's great in homes and in business.  Brazilian Cherry has a Janka rating of 2820 which is 123% harder than Red Oak!  Now remember, that doesn't mean that it's impenetrable.  It is a natural product so if something heavy is dropped or dragged across the floor, it can scratch or dent.

Something to take note of with Brazilian Cherry is that over time, it will patina.  What I mean by that is as it is exposed to light, it will darken over time and colors will get deeper and richer.  Therefore, during the first six months we do recommend moving furniture (as long as they have felt pads on the bottom!) and avoiding putting down area rugs so that the floor can change at a relatively consistent pace.  If you do choose to put area rugs down, you may notice that the floor underneath is much lighter when you move the rug.  If you remove the rug, the covered area of flooring will catch up to the rest of the wood eventually.

Also, Brazilian Cherry is not the best product over radiant heat  While Brazilian Cherry is more stable than Red Oak, we don't recommend it because sustained high heat associated with radiant heat flooring can have a negative impact with Brazilian Cherry.  Natural oils, calcification and other properties of this species can slowly migrate to the surface just under the clear top finishes, manifested as small whitish oxidation spots.  This whitish calcification is a characteristic of the species, not a defect.  Individual boards manifesting this condition will have to be replaced with new boards, it cannot be sanded out.

We offer Bellawood Brazilian Cherry in 5/16" x 2-1/4", 3/8" x 3", 3/4" x 2-1/4", 3/4" x 3-1/4" (what we have and my favorite), and 3/4" x 5".  There's a product for many different applications, budget, and installation method.  We also offer Bellawood Brazilian Cherry in an engineered variety.

Another product that we offer is Brazilian Cherry Lite.  This flooring has tones ranging from yellowish brown to reddish brown.  It's great for people who love the red tones of Brazilian Cherry, but want a paler colored wood.  Brazilian Cherry Lite has the same Janka rating as Brazilian Cherry.  We offer this in 1/2" x 3", 3/4" x 2-1/4", and 3/4" x 3-1/4".

All of Brazilian Cherry and Brazilian Cherry Lite products are Select Grade.  That means they have the most uniform color with no large knots, and the longest average length of planks.  

So it's no wonder that Bellawood Brazilian Cherry is as popular as it is.  It has looks, strength, and character.  All of those things make it a floor you should consider today!

Hardwood Flooring Sell-Off September 2-7 2010

Nate is back and he's here to tell you about Odd Lots.

He's also going to tell you about some of the great things we have going on this weekend, like the great deal on Virginia Mill Works Handscraped Tobacco Road.

Choosing the Right Saw Blade For Your Flooring Project

As a general rule, the more teeth on the blade, the smoother the cuts.  However, more teeth always means slower cutting and more load stress on the saw motor.  Fewer teeth means faster cutting speed, a reduction in force required and more chance for wood tear-out or splintering. Here are a few tips in choosing the right saw blade for the job.  Carbide tipped blades are best when cutting laminates and harder exotics. Quality blades can be re-edged or sharpened several times saving money. Blades having expansion slots are designed to greatly reduce heat-warping allowing the metal to cool thereby extending the life of the blade. There are many blade versions, each designed for cutting different materials.

                     
Blades for Laminate Flooring

With laminates, it’s not the hardness of the high density fiber core (HDFC) that causes saw blades to wear down but actually the abrasion and heat from repeated cutting of the aluminum oxide micro-chips applied to the wear-layer. Interestingly the same aluminum oxide is used to make industrial grade sandpaper! In view of this, a thin kerf, 80 to 100 tooth, carbide-tipped blade is most effective for cutting laminates and will last for about 1000 sft before needing to be re-sharpened. 

Blades for Hardwood Flooring

Blade dulling is common with the denser exotics, especially prefinished aluminum oxide coated floorings. Professionals often use paper patterns to trace or transfer special shapes and angles onto the new flooring for cutting.

1. The Plywood Blade is a very popular blade usually made from High-Speed Steel with 100 or more fine teeth.  Recommended for clean cutting paneling, moldings, and engineered flooring. Usually costs between $30-$40.
2. The Combination Blade is usually made up of 80 to 100 teeth.  This versatile blade cuts a variety of materials very quickly and smoothly, with a minimal amount of splintering.  Recommended for cutting laminates, harder exotic hardwood, and precision miter cutting.  Usually costs between $30-$50.
3. The All-Purpose Steel Blade is the most commonly used blade.  These blades can do a little of everything and normally have about 40 teeth, are inexpensive, and tend to warp quicker.  Usually costs between $20-$30.
4. A Cut-Off Blade is recognized by its 60 and 80 spaced teeth and 10 degrees of hook or angle.  The tooth count allows for making quick rough cuts of plywood and 2x4s.  Recommended for fast rough cutting.  Usually costs between $8-$15.

 

Tips to Get the Most From Your Blades

• Carbide blades last 30% longer and can be re-sharpened for about $10
• Dedicate one blade for laminates, another for hardwood
• Old blades can be saved and used to cut through nail heads when removing existing plywood
• Get money back from worn-out blades at your local scrap yard

Blade Anatomy

• Expansion Slots - Laser cuts in saw blade sides designed to dissipate heat when cutting.  Also allows expansion and reduces warping.
• Kerf - Blade thickness
• Gullets - The space cut out from blade plates between the teeth of the saw blade.  The gullets provide room for chips and waste to safely exit the cut.
• High-Speed Steel Blades - Less expensive than Carbide-Tipped, harder than steel blades and stays sharp longer. 
• Carbide-Tipped Blades - More expensive than steel and High-Speed Steel blades, but they stay sharp much longer than steel or High-Speed Steel blades.
• Steel Blades - Basic economy, works well for cutting softwood, dulls quickly.

 

Power Saw Tips

• A 10” table saw will complete about 90% of flooring cuts, “rips or fill-ins” around the walls.
• 10” to 12” miter or chop saw is used for quick straight cuts or mitering
• A Jigsaw fitted with a tine toothed blade is used to cut special shapes (vents, support beams, etc.)

CUT FLOORING OUTSIDE!!!

Blade sparks are common and can ignite a build-up of gas fumes.  Do what the pros do.  Set up a fan next to your saw to blow dust away from your body.  You will be cleaner and safer with each cut.

Floor Medallions, Something Unexpected and Beautiful

You can make a statement in your home with a beautiful piece of art on your walls, a classic piece of furniture, or unique accessories.  You can also make that statement with your flooring.  Our in-house installer, Bob, went to an NWFA Advanced Installation School to learn about custom medallion and border inlays that included brass, aluminum, and granite.  Take a look at some of the pictures, it's really great work!

 

Busy gluing and inserting Walnut into a Heart Pine floor.

Bob is ready to start sanding and finishing their project!

 

The finished work.

 

Detail of a Hickory floor with a medallion, aluminum, and granite.

 

Same medallion, bigger picture.

 

A maple floor with an intricate rhombus design with a border and brass finished medallion.

 

The finished product, it really does make a statement, doesn't it!

 

A hickory floor with a floral medallion, boarder, and brass.

I hope you enjoy, and if you have any questions, make sure you ask Bob all about it!

Virginia Mill Works, Handscraped and Homey!

Several people have asked about the Virginia Mill Works line that we offer so I thought that I would do a little section about it.  While this may not have every single teeny tiny detail about the brand, hopefully this information will be a good start.

Colonial American homes, when they had a floor, were built with wood floors that were sawn using basic hand-held tools.  They didn't have the fancy equipment that we have today to mass produce perfectly straight boards.  That same hand-crafted style is what you will find in Virginia Mill Works (VMF for short) floors.  Handscraped floors have a textured surface and no two floors will come out the same.  VMF offers both solid and engineered products so you have more options for where you want to lay your floor, including on cement and below grade (basements, below ground).  Plus, all VMF products come with a 30-Year Warranty!

Currently we offer handscraped and distressed products.  Handscraped is what I described above and the floor contours and has a unique texture as opposed to other pre-finished products.  Distressed has less contour, but still has an Old World look and feel to it.  Handscraped hardwood has become a very popular choice among homeowners wanting hardwood with the look of an old reclaimed wood floor, but with today's tough urethane finishes. 

One product in particular that people have asked about is Tobacco Road.  Let me tell you, it is beautiful.  Usually coming in board lengths of 1 to 3 feet, it creates a very unique, very appealing look.  Tobacco Road uses Acacia wood, which has a Janka rating of 2250, roughly 74% harder than Red Oak.  It really is beautiful and unique and likely to cause jealousy from neighbors and friends!

Many of our customers love VMF because of the Old World elegance it brings.  It can be used in formal dining rooms to log cabins and look great wherever you put it.  Some of our customers even love the fact that if the floor gets scratched accidentally, it looks like it belongs there.  However, I'm not encouraging you to scratch your floor.  You should protect your investment by taking good care of it so it will last years and years.    

Handscraped flooring by Virginia Mill Works is definitely a good choice if you are looking for a more antique or rustic look.  Besides being beautiful, it is unique and will definitely be a showpiece of your home.