Lumber Liquidators

Floor Medallions, Something Unexpected and Beautiful

You can make a statement in your home with a beautiful piece of art on your walls, a classic piece of furniture, or unique accessories.  You can also make that statement with your flooring.  Our in-house installer, Bob, went to an NWFA Advanced Installation School to learn about custom medallion and border inlays that included brass, aluminum, and granite.  Take a look at some of the pictures, it's really great work!

 

Busy gluing and inserting Walnut into a Heart Pine floor.

Bob is ready to start sanding and finishing their project!

 

The finished work.

 

Detail of a Hickory floor with a medallion, aluminum, and granite.

 

Same medallion, bigger picture.

 

A maple floor with an intricate rhombus design with a border and brass finished medallion.

 

The finished product, it really does make a statement, doesn't it!

 

A hickory floor with a floral medallion, boarder, and brass.

I hope you enjoy, and if you have any questions, make sure you ask Bob all about it!

Virginia Mill Works, Handscraped and Homey!

Several people have asked about the Virginia Mill Works line that we offer so I thought that I would do a little section about it.  While this may not have every single teeny tiny detail about the brand, hopefully this information will be a good start.

Colonial American homes, when they had a floor, were built with wood floors that were sawn using basic hand-held tools.  They didn't have the fancy equipment that we have today to mass produce perfectly straight boards.  That same hand-crafted style is what you will find in Virginia Mill Works (VMF for short) floors.  Handscraped floors have a textured surface and no two floors will come out the same.  VMF offers both solid and engineered products so you have more options for where you want to lay your floor, including on cement and below grade (basements, below ground).  Plus, all VMF products come with a 30-Year Warranty!

Currently we offer handscraped and distressed products.  Handscraped is what I described above and the floor contours and has a unique texture as opposed to other pre-finished products.  Distressed has less contour, but still has an Old World look and feel to it.  Handscraped hardwood has become a very popular choice among homeowners wanting hardwood with the look of an old reclaimed wood floor, but with today's tough urethane finishes. 

One product in particular that people have asked about is Tobacco Road.  Let me tell you, it is beautiful.  Usually coming in board lengths of 1 to 3 feet, it creates a very unique, very appealing look.  Tobacco Road uses Acacia wood, which has a Janka rating of 2250, roughly 74% harder than Red Oak.  It really is beautiful and unique and likely to cause jealousy from neighbors and friends!

Many of our customers love VMF because of the Old World elegance it brings.  It can be used in formal dining rooms to log cabins and look great wherever you put it.  Some of our customers even love the fact that if the floor gets scratched accidentally, it looks like it belongs there.  However, I'm not encouraging you to scratch your floor.  You should protect your investment by taking good care of it so it will last years and years.    

Handscraped flooring by Virginia Mill Works is definitely a good choice if you are looking for a more antique or rustic look.  Besides being beautiful, it is unique and will definitely be a showpiece of your home.

Weekend Sale Through 8/3/2010

Here's Nate to tell you about some of our specials going on this weekend.  First he'll tell you about the Bellawood Brazilian Redwood and next, it's Tiger Strand Bamboo.

How to Measure for Hardwood, Bamboo, Cork and Laminate Floorings

Recently, many people have asked how to properly measure their home for flooring.  I talked to Bob, our in-house installer, for his expert advice on how to measure for flooring.  I'm hoping that you find this useful in determining how many square feet you will need.  Remember, if you ever have any further questions, you can always check our Flooring 101 section or contact Bob and his team.

Sample Bed room - measures 13’8”x 15’2”

 

 The basics

When measuring for square footage, the simplest method is to measure a room’s length x width (L x W). Use a tape measure to measure from wall to wall or baseboard to baseboard, ignoring built-in cabinetry. Using this bedroom as an example, if the room measures 13’8″ x 15’2″ round up the measurement to 14′ x 16′. The room area will now be 224 sqft. Measuring for kitchens? Most dishwashers can be pulled out or have adjustable front legs or panels to allow the flooring to be installed underneath about 3-4 inches. Don’t forget the closets!

Many older historic homes have irregular shaped rooms making accurate measurements more difficult. If this is the case simply break-up rooms into more manageable squares or rectangles. Circular and triangular rooms are a little more challenging. Below are examples of how this can be achieved.  

The measurement around a circle is called its circumference. The measurement across a circle through its center is called its diameter. Commonly the Greek letter π pronounced Pi is used to represent the ratio of the circumference of a circle to the diameter, or = 3.14. The measurement from the center to the edge is called its radius; the radius of this circle is 20’. The area of a circle is the number of square units inside this circle - the area is our focus. Follow this equation for the area;

Area = π x R x R

= 3.14 · (20’) · (20’)

= 3.14 · (400’)

Area = 1,256 sqft

The area of a triangle is the number of square units inside that triangle. It is always half the sum of the height and base..        

Triangle area = ^₁/₂ b x h (base 10' x height 20')

(10' x 20') = 200 sqft

¹/₂ of 200 sqft = (100sqft)

Total Triangle sqft area is 100 sqft                                   
    

Transitions and Trim moldings

Just as a new suit needs new shoes, don’t forget the matching trim pieces for your new flooring. We offer transitions and moldings to color-match most flooring. Trim moldings are not only decorative but also functional, hiding perimeter expansion gaps and even speaker wiring! Transitions also offer décor plus safety while moving or transitioning between varying floor heights. When measuring for quarter round or base moldings, measure along the floor at the wall-base the perimeter of a room, this will give you the “linear feet” (Lnft). For example a 12x12 room would measure 12+12+12+12 or about 48’ Lnft of base moldings. When measuring for transitions there are only 4 basic styles, each designed for special purposes; T-molding, reducer, end-caps, and stair nosing. Keep in mind that these basic styles will work for about 95% of most applications, about 5% will need to be modified slightly by the installer to accommodate unique job site considerations.

Waste Factor and Placing the Order

Using the bedroom as an example, if the room measures 13’8″ x 15’2″ round up the measurement to 14′ x 16′. The room area will now be 224 sqft. Add a typical waste percentage for cutting, defects or damages to complete the project. When placing the order, round up to the next full box/container. Waste percentages are related to the selected product, for example; Laminates usually require about 8% extra be added to the square footage totals. Corks, bamboo and most exotic hardwood need about 10-15% extra. Add about 5% extra for domestic hardwoods.                                                                                                                                                                              

It is beneficial to know that some wood species may require additional percentage be added to an order to account for such factors as shading, hardness or brittleness like Australian Cypress. These traits are considered species characteristics not defects. When ordering, don’t forget to keep an extra box of material on hand for future repairs if needed.

Last but certainly not least, it’s worth noting that “special buys”, “close-outs” and “odd-lots” are usually one-of-a-kind deals with no way to order extra product! Make sure to get what’s needed at the time of purchase. 

What WOOD You Like to Hear About?

Hello out there in the blog-o-sphere.  This post is for you.  Actually, all of these posts are for you, that's why I'm here!!!  This blog has been around for a few weeks now and I've had a lot of fun deciding on topics and posts.  However, I want to know what YOU want to hear about.  Leave some comments and let me know what you'd like to get out of this blog.  Want to hear about products? Installation techniques? Happenings around the Lumber Liquidators offices?  Customer Interviews?  The recipe for my world famous Texas Sheet Cake (well, it's my aunt's and it's not world famous...yet)?  I really am here for you and I will try to respond to suggestions and incorporate them into the blog over time.  And please be nice, we do moderate the comments that come in so don't put anything that is spam, profane, or nonconstructive. 

And in case you love the blog the way it is, here are some fun sites that I love that you may enjoy too!

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ (<--You knew this would be at the top of the list!)

http://www.hgtv.com/

http://www.diynetwork.com/

http://www.foodnetwork.com/ 

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/  (My dad watched this show when I was a kid and I find myself watching too!)

How to Replace a Nail Down Prefinished Hardwood Floor Board

Do you have concerns about a damaged hardwood board? You are not alone.  Everyone who owns a hardwood floor will probably have to do a board replacement at some time. Board replacement is a normal part of the hardwood flooring industry, in fact up to 8 percent of your flooring can be replaced and your floor will still have its integrity. Most boards need to be replaced due to events that are out of our control, for example: environmental factors, objects that fall, or damage from furniture, shoes, children, and pets. A board replacement will have your flooring looking like it was never damaged and you will never know that it has been done.

Here are the steps on how to replace a damaged board.

Tools needed for Board Replacement

• Circular Saw
• Chisel
• Hammer
• #2080 painters tape
• Epoxy
• Miter Box
• Small pry bar
• Painters plastic (use to cover furniture from exposure to dust)

***Installation Tip #1: Due to natural color changes in wood species, the new board may not match the shade of the old flooring. If this is the case, let the new board sit in the home for a week in a spot where it will receive the most light. Direct light will quicken the color change, allowing the new board to blend in better with the old flooring. This will also help the new board acclimate to the environment of the home.

***Installation Tip #2: Measure the width of the old board to see if it is equal to the width of the new board. If the old wood has expanded due to moisture, the new board may not fit and the board replacement should wait to be done during a drier climate.

Step 1 – Cover the bottom of you circular saw with blue tape so it will not scratch your flooring. Set the depth of the skill saw to the thickness of the board being replaced. Apply blue tape around the board that is being cut so you don’t mistakenly cut into another plank. Cut down the length of the board on the groove side and on the tongue side and then make another cut diagonally across the first two cuts.

Step 2 – Take a hammer and pry bar and pull up the 2 halves in the middle of the board. Then chisel out the remaining pieces around the edges.

Step 3 - Pull out nails and cut out the felt or rosin paper. Take a vacuum and clean up any debris.

Step 4 - Measure the area that was cut out.

Step 5 - Measure new board and cut it to desired length needed. Use a sanding sponge to create a slight bevel on the cut edge. Also cut the bottom groove off the length and width of the board.

This picture shows the groove cut off the width end, do the same for the bottom groove down the length of the board.

Step 6 – Apply a 100% urethane adhesive in a snake like pattern to the cleaned subfloor and place new board in sliding the tongue of the board into place first. Take a block of wood and tap down gently on the new board to knock it in place.

 

Step 7 – Apply weight to the board until the adhesive has time to cure. You have now finished your board replacement.

If you ever have any questions about installation, you can also contact the Lumber Liquidators Technical and Installation Department at install@lumberliquidators.com.  Good luck with your project!

Steps to Finding Your Perfect Floor

Thinking about putting hardwood down but don’t know what is best for your room?  There are a lot of things to consider before making a major purchase.  You want to be happy with your purchase and so do we!

First, you probably want to decide what your budget is so you know which products to look at more closely.  If you want to spend $2.00 a square foot but want hardwood, you may not be able to get the unique exotic that you have your heart set on.  Fear not!  There are other great, affordable options like laminate and engineered that may work for your price point.  Consider how many square feet you want to put down and how much you are willing to spend for that area.  If you want to spend $3000 for a 400 square foot room, you will have a lot more options than if you plan on spending less than $1000 for the same space. 

Next you want to consider the area that you are putting the flooring in.  Is it a bedroom that doesn’t get a lot of traffic?  A kitchen where water has a tendency to not stay in the sink?  A playroom for children who practice WWF-style moves?  Different products are good for different applications.  For example, hardwood may not be an ideal choice for a full bathroom that is showered in daily because of the water that ends up on the floor and the humidity that can be absorbed into the flooring, resulting in board edge cupping.  An engineered floor may be better for that area.  Cork is becoming a popular option for kitchens due to the comfort it brings when people are standing for long periods.  If you are concerned about durability, check out the Janka rating (for hardwood durability) or the AC rating (for laminate durability) while you are doing your shopping.

Then comes, perhaps, the most exciting consideration: color!  With a wide variety of hardwood, laminate, bamboo, cork, and engineered at your disposal, there are many, many options for color from light, bright colors to rich, dark tones.  Whether you want your floor to match an existing floor, to be a showpiece, to compliment furniture, or to give your room “mood flooring”, there is a floor for you.  Hmm, maybe “mood flooring” won’t take off the way “mood lighting” did.  Oh well.

Lumber Liquidators has a wide variety of these products as well as knowledgeable staff that are happy to help you with your flooring decision.  New flooring can dramatically change the look and feel of your home.  Choose the floor that’s best for you and you will enjoy it for years to come!

Understanding the Janka Scale, Hardness, and Stability

When you purchase a new wood floor, I’m sure that there are a few things running through your mind.   Does it look good?  Is it durable?  Does Lumber Liquidators’ warranty cover scratches?  What kind of damage will my 2-year-old and Yorkipoo do to the floor? These are all important things to think about.  Durability is a big concern of many customers.  Before you choose hardwood based on color, take a look at the hardness and stability of the wood you are interested in.

The hardness of wood reflects its durability and is measured on the Janka hardness scale.  The Janka hardness test measures the force required to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter into the wood. In the picture above, the orange reflects the hardness while the violet reflects stability. Northern Red Oak is the species that all others are compared against and if the Janka rating is higher for that wood, it denotes a harder wood.  For example the Janka rating for Northern Red Oak is 1290. Brazilian Walnut, a very hard wood, has a Janka rating of 3680.  That makes it roughly 185% harder than Northern Red Oak!  It also makes it difficult to install but we’ll leave that for another day. Janka testing helps customers to understand the resistance of wood to wear and denting and is used to approximate product and customer expectations.  Even though it creates numerical results for hardness, natural variations are to be expected, even within a species.

Also, there is not a relationship between wood hardness and surface finish wear, which is why manufacturers do not warranty wood flooring against scratching and denting.  While it’s true that a particular species used in flooring is durable enough to handle day to day use, that doesn’t mean a harder wood won’t dent. 

Trees come from nature and because of their cell structure, all wood products can dent and scratch. So if you take a hammer to your floor and pound as hard as you can, you’ll probably be able to dent your floor.  Something we definitely don’t recommend.  What did that poor floor do to you anyways? 

Appliances and furniture can eventually leave dents on hardwood flooring.  Luckily, wood floors can be restored using “Touch-Up Kits”, individual board replacement, or a total sanding and refinishing of the floor if needed. 

No floor is “Scratch Proof”.  However urethane finishes are applied to take limited surface abuse, thereby protecting your investment…the wood underneath. Taking safeguards like applying felt pads to furniture, keeping your floor clean, using rugs or walk-off mats at entrances to the home, keeping your pet’s nails trimmed, not using the “beater-bar” on your vacuum, or having a “No Shoe” policy (or at least a “No High Heels” policy) are good ways to protect your floor. 

Another attribute to consider is stability.  Stability refers to how much an installed wood floor expands and contracts in relationship to the change in humidity.  Northern Red Oak is once again used as a baseline.  If the percentage is higher than Northern Red Oak, then is it more stable and reacts less to moisture changes within the environment. 

With a little research, you can choose a floor that you will love and will look beautiful for years to come.

Hardwood Cleaning Tips

Today's Prefinished wood floorings are easier than ever to keep clean, needing only minimal care to keep looking good, year after year. Here's a few simple cleaning and preventive maintenance tips for hardwood, cork and bamboo floorings with urethane finishes.

• First, vacuuming, dust-mop or sweeping regularly is the best way to remove surface dust, grit and dirt before it gets walked into the finish, dulling the luster. Vacuuming also pulls accumulated dust from the grooves between factory finished and plank floors. Sand particles are very destructive and are really tiny pieces of glass, like sandpaper ready to scratch the finish. When vacuuming, soft attachment parts are recommended. It's best to avoid the notorious beater-bar. Its spinning bristles can scratch or generate enough heat to permanently leave hot-spot marks on the finish

If you do have scratches, quite often minor ones can be concealed using liquid scratch covers, sprays or lotions. Dents and nicks can be filled using wood floor repair kits (Touch-up markers, epoxy fill sticks or wax color pencils) usually available at your local home store. If your floor is severely damaged you can consult a professional about refinishing, or perhaps just an individual board replacement may be all that's needed. Scratching and denting of installed flooring while unfortunate is beyond a manufacturer's ability to control therefore not considered a product defect. Interestingly, the purpose of today's urethane top-finishes serves the same function as waxed floors did in the old days in that finishes are intended to take the abuse first, thereby protecting the actual wood. Therefore, as unsightly as scratches are the urethane top-finishes are actually working as intended... protecting your investment.

• Secondly, remember that wood and water does not mix well. So never pour water directly onto your floor or wet mop the floor like you would ceramic tiles. Even small amounts of water can cause hard water spots, clouding or deterioration to the finish or edge cup the wood. When selecting maintenance products, please note the labeling instructions. Only use products specifically designed or safe for urethane finished floors. Note that some cleaners may interfere with future re-coating such as waxes and oil soaps. The application is also important as many cleaners will direct you to apply the cleaner to the applicator first then the floor, rather than directly to the floor. You must adhere to the manufacturer's labeling directions for their warranty.

• Lastly, protect your floors by using chair leg protectors and walk-off mats or throw-rugs just inside the entrances. Choose non-solvent, felt or plant based products. Do not use synthetic rubber or plastic backed mats as trace chemicals can attack, discolor, yellow or fade the finish. These types of mats often react negatively exposed to direct UV light. Some non-slip padding's placed under throw-rugs may also contain plasticizers harmful to urethane finishes.

Please see our Flooring 101 for more installation details and how to get the most from your new flooring.