Lumber Liquidators

How do I acclimate my wood, cork or laminate floor?

Have we mentioned that you should acclimate?  Once, twice, maybe?  Well, here are a few recommendations when it comes to acclimating your new floor before you install it.

For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

To prevent moisture build-up, homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation.  Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely Cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape

Cork Flooring Links

Store CORK  Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in open packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed.

Laminate Links 

Store Laminate Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in unopened packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed. For floors with radiant heating make sure to turn down your thermostat to 15°C / 60°F at least 1 week prior to installation (do not turn off heating if the temperature outside is below freezing). Maintain the temperature below 27°C / 80°F.

 Solid Wood Domestic and Exotic Links 

All wood products are affected by environmental conditions especially prefinished materials. Acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed to normal lived-in conditions while in the boxes. If products are protected in plastic open the ends of the boxes. Length of time is not the determining factor. The goal is to reach an equilibrium or moisture balance between the new flooring with its surroundings before installation. This balance could be achieved in as little as 1 to 5 days, or longer for some exotic species. For best performance, condition the flooring to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and indoor humidity levels of 30% - 50%. Very dry or humid regions usually require extended conditioning. Recommended acclimation levels maintained even after the installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper jobsite conditions, acclimation and moisture testing the subfloor and new flooring and all work together for the success of the installation. This is the responsibility of those overseeing the project.

 

Moisture Test! Water & Wood Don't Mix

Approximately 85% of all installation failures are resulting from moisture problems. Therefore, the purpose of this post is to outline typical moisture testing, planning and procedures designed to help your installation be a successful one.

The installation of Lumber Liquidators, Inc.("LLI") wood flooring should not commence until conditions are determined to be "dry" according to industry moisture testing standards. Testing is to include, (a) the new wood flooring, (b) the wood subfloor or cement slab.

It is the responsibility of the professional flooring contractor or the Do-It-Yourselfer (DIY) to inspect and test jobsite moisture conditions prior to the commencement of any flooring system to ensure compliance with established hardwood industry standards. It is understood that moisture testing only establishes the existence of moisture at the time of testing and does not forecast future moisture issues. Installers would not be held responsible for moisture problems arising after the installation providing testing was conducted and normal moisture remediation was completed before installation. The point of moisture testing is to establish when the new flooring and substrate is actually ready for installation or the need to reschedule the work until conditions are acceptable.

Testing concrete

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST

THE POLYFILM TEST

THE PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless

Testing concrete
LLI does not recommend installation of any flooring system over a newly-installed concrete slab within 60 days of pour. Concrete slab drying time is affected by the type of construction, concrete formulation, location of the building and climatic/environmental conditions. Vapor barriers or under-slab membranes, while recommended, can increase slab-drying times, therefore accurate testing should not commence until after some 90 days of cure time. When conducting slab moisture testing, conduct tests in several areas regardless of the age of the slab. If the test(s) indicate a wet slab, document the results and delay installation of the flooring until corrected.
The use of an electronic concrete moisture meter to determine slab moisture emission is not reliable nor recommended. This is because electronic meters measure moisture content in the slab, usually in terms of an overall percentage and register moisture content only at 1% of the surface, while other meters register an average only in a vertical downward direction where placed. Metered moisture content values may indicate degree of saturation of a slab, but not the on-going emission rate that is occurring at the time.

The Following are several industry-recognized concrete slab moisture tests that provide quantitative measurements of moisture emission. All tests should be conducted at several different locations in a room--typically along exterior walls and walls with plumbing enclosures.

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST: The calcium chloride test is one of the oldest and most legally recognized concrete moisture tests. This test has been used most often by flooring retailers and contractors. The cost can run about $50 or $60 per test. Depending on the kit purchased results can be acquired immediately, or sent away for documentation and reading. The calcium chloride test works by measuring changes in weight of anhydrous calcium chloride crystals.

Typical procedure: a small plastic dish of anhydrous calcium crystals is weighed to determine moisture content. 1st, after sanding or scarifying the cement surface (fig 1) the entire dish is weighed on a gram scale prior to placement and the weight, date and time the test was started must be recorded. The lid is then opened, and the dish of crystals is carefully set down on the concrete for 60 to 72 hours. The dish is enclosed within a 7-by-10-inch cover, which is then sealed with plastic tape to the concrete (fig 2). During this time, the only source of moisture being absorbed by the anhydrous crystals is what can evaporate out of the covered concrete surface area. A note of caution: Use care in lid dealing and removal of the dish, and weighing as exposure to atmosphere will dramatically effect the results.

At the end of the test, the dome is removed and the lid is placed back on the dish and sealed. Again the dish is weighed on the gram scale and the date and time are marked. The change in weight is multiplied by a constant and divided by hours to provide an estimated rate of evaporation, in pounds.

(fig1)
(fig2)

For example, water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Pounds, is the equivalent weight of water that evaporates out of a 1,000-square foot surface area during 24 hours. If the test reports 8.3 pounds emission, then one-gallon of water is leaving a 1,000 square foot surface area in 24 hours. A conservative but generally recommended allowable amount of moisture emission as expressed by the calcium chloride test is 3.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours at the time of the installation of the flooring.

THE POLYFILM TEST: Several pieces of plastic film, 18”- 24” squares of are placed at key points on the cement, seal all four sides with silver duct tape. After 24 hours, the plastic film is removed and inspected for signs of condensation. If beads of water are found on the subfloor or the concrete appears darker this is a heads-up that further testing is necessary. If there is no indication of moisture under the plastic film, one can assume the installation may proceed. The reading is valid at 24 hours, but it's even better if the test can stay in place until 72 hours have passed. The plastic film test can also be "accelerated" by using a heat source such as a 40 to 60 watt light bulb safely placed 18” above the plastic.

PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST: This moisture test uses a 3 percent phenolphthalein solution (fig1) in water-free ethyl alcohol. Dime sized holes,1/4-inch deep, are drilled in various areas of the slab, particularly around walls. Then two drops of the solution are applied into each of the drilled areas. If there's no color change in the solution, there should not be enough moisture and the alkalinity is not high enough to affect the installation. But if the phenolphthalein turns pink or dark red within five minutes and the pH is 9.0 or higher, further testing must be done with a more precise method. This should NOT be the only method used for testing moisture. Color of concrete surfaces: The "proper" color of concrete should be a light yellowish-grey (similar to limestone) not sugar white. In fact, a sugar-white surface usually means the concrete was improperly cured and can create a severe moisture problem later on (usually months later). This is due to the poor hydration of cement within the surface, creating a disproportionately high water to cement ratio...that appears white.
(fig1)
(fig2)

pH paper or litmus paper test:
Both the phenolphthalein and litmus paper tests measure the alkalinity of the surface of the concrete. Determining if cement is alkali free is important for glue down installations on concrete. Excess alkalinity(salts) can contribute to adhesive failure. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. However, it is the excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete, as this condition will deposit the excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test (fig2) will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface. Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and apply a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above10.

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless Probe or pin-type meters (fig1) are fast and easy to use. They come with different measurement indicators. The lower-cost units have L.E.D. display lights indicating different moisture levels; the better-quality units have analog or digital displays and provision for different species and wood temperatures.

The pinless meters (fig2) are also referred to as "non-destructive" because these don't leave small testing holes in the wood. Signal penetration for pinless meters is up to 1 inch for both hardwood and softwood. The meter can be moved across the surface to identify pockets of moisture in a wood block or plank. It is relatively unaffected by temperature. Rough surfaces have very little effect on the reading. Measurements can also be taken through coating, varnish or paint without damage to the surface.

One advantage of probe type meters is that those with insulated pins can measure moisture content at varying depths--you can tell whether the moisture content near the bottom of a board is higher than near the top.

Deciding which kind of moisture meter to buy is a matter of sorting through the features you think you will need, and how often you may use it, and then understanding the various features and benefits. It is important that the meter you choose offers the following:

• A clear analog or digital dial.
• A moisture content range from at least 6 percent to 30 percent.
• The necessary adjustment tables for various species; (some meters have a built in adjustment for this function)

(fig1)

(fig2)

Testing Wood Subfloors: Wood subfloors are actually easy to check for moisture content. Just test for moisture at several locations in the room and average the results (fig1). In most regions of the country, a "dry" wood subfloor that is ready to work has a moisture content of 12 percent or less, or down to about 7% in states with low (RH) relative humidity. If excessively high readings are obtained, installation should not proceed until the origin of the moisture is identified and moisture problems are remedied. During the winter, an overly moist subfloor can be dried out by running the heat for a few weeks. Air conditioning during the summer will do the same thing.
Before installation, the moisture content of the subfloor should be within 4% percentage points of the new flooring (fig2). If the moisture content between the new flooring and subflooring varies more than 4 percentage points or 2% for boards wider than 2 1/2” the flooring should not be installed.
fig1) 

(fig2)

Please direct inquiries to Lumber Liquidators Technical Department at 800-366-4204

Hey vets, come home and don't go anywhere else.

What Do I Need First? A Job Site Checklist!

Not entirely sure what is best for you?  What tools will you need?  Use this handy job site checklist before you get started to figure out some of those pesky questions you may not know the answer to.  It will be useful for your installer or your local Lumber Liquidators store even if you plan on installing yourself!

Download General Installation CheckList NWFA

How to Install Williamsburg Butcher Block

Looking for something unique for your kitchen and more affordable than granite? Have you considered butcher blocks?  Lumber Liquidators carries to types of butcher blocks, Maple and American Cherry.  It can give a great country or homey feel to a kitchen.

Here are steps from our Tech & Install team helping you with your Butcher Block Installation.

1.) Measure the depth of your cabinet, adding desired about of overhang.

2.) Cut Butcher Block panel to size

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the width you want if desired width is less than 25 inches

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the length you wan if desired length is less than purchased length

3.) Ease front edge of counter top

    - Select router bit for desired profile

    - Sand edge smooth

4.) Prepare cabinets to accept Butcher Block panel.

    - For open-top cabinets, install blocking across cabinet width, approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch from        top of cabinet

        - Pre-drill pilot holes through blocking and fasten to cabinet with wood screws

    - For solid-top cabinets, install furring strips across cabinet length

        - Bond strips to cabinet with construction adhesive/sealant

5.) Drill holes (1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter) through either blocking installed on open-top cabinets or top of solid-top cabinets.

6.) Apply bead of construction adhesive/sealant to either blocking or furring strips

7.) Position counter top on cabinet.

8.) Drill smaller diameter pilot hole into underside of counter top through larger holes previously drilled in blocking or top of cabinet.

    - Use caution not to drill through top of counter top

9.) Secure counter top to cabinet

    - Fit a wood screw with washer that is wider in diameter than holes in blocking or top of cabinet

    - Insert screw through hole and fasten to underside of counter top until cabinet fits snugly against        top of cabinet (Select screw length that will not penetrate counter top face)

10.) Finish your countertop as desired.

    - Treat with food-grade mineral oil for use as working food preparation surface.

    - Finish with other product approved for intended use.

 

 

Nail Down Installation and the Best Machines & Fasteners

There are many types of flooring out there.  If you plan on doing a nail down installation, it seems like there is the same number of cleats, nails, staples, and installation guns.  Hopefully, we can clear a little of it up for you.

Our Tech and Install Department has done a lot of leg work for us to come up with some very valuable resources regarding which products you should use.

As a quick overview, there are many companies that make Hardwood  nailing machines, few will have all the accessories, adaptor plates and styles of fasteners needed for the many types of floorings we carry.

 The POWERNAIL CO. is able to match up both the correct Nail machine and fasteners for a complete system for most wood floors.

 The MODELS  50P & 50M are excellent for the installation of both Engineered and Solids ranging in sizes from 3/8” to 5/8,-(especially the harder exotic woods).These models use a thin cleat nail –(size .050) as thick as a dime, ranging from 1” to 1-1/2” in length.

 The MODELS 200P & 250M are also designed for Engineered wood, sizes from 5/16” to 5/8”, (great for the Nail-down Bamboo products) sizes 1/2" to 5/8”. These models also use a thin cleat nail – (size.035) as thick as a paper match.

 These models are designed to minimize tongue fracture common with Wire gage staplers and protect board edges and the surface area. However, even when using a recommended nailer tongue fractures can still happen. Some brittle woods like 1/2" Australian Cypress work well gluing down with 100% urethane adhesives rather than nailing, especially for border work. Brittle woods do best with the thinner cleat type nails 18-20 ga.

Packaged in with these models will be the adaptor plates and shims necessary for your specified flooring size. Test a few boards for correct nail seating and verify that the board edge is damage free, make any adjustments.

Actually for some species of wood like Blood wood, Ebony, Teaks, Brazilian Rosewood and Brazilian Cherry, the "pre-drill and hand nailing" method may be needed to prevent wood damage. If using a nailing machine for harder exotics watch out for any surface dimpling or mushrooming. This condition can happen when nailing denser woods. The nail actually pushes the surface of the wood upward (resulting in a surface dimple) to receive the nail. If floor-nailing machines will not correctly nail the wood without dimpling the surface or fracturing the tongues, it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail some species, just as a carpenter would when working around fine furniture or cabinetry. 

Many professional installers understand this and often charge slightly more for installation of these “iron woods” as the correct installation can take 2-3 times longer!

Additional resources can be found here:

Bamboo Nailing Recommendations

NAILERS/STAPLERS

NOFMA Nailing Schedule

 

Installing Bellawood ¾” Solid Wood Over Concrete

Many homes are on a concrete slab and a big question we often get is how to install over concrete.  So I asked our great guys over at Tech & Install to give us some ideas on how to install 3/4" solid Bellawood over concrete.

1^st method: Floating plywood subfloor system:

Concrete should be clean and level up to 1/8” over 6’. Apply a 6mil mil poly sheeting over the concrete overlapping the seams 6 inches and tape with duct tape.  Install a layer of 1/2” plywood over the poly sheeting. Next install a second layer of 1/2” plywood at a 45 degree angle to the first layer. Screw the top layer of plywood to the bottom layer. Be sure not to penetrate the poly sheeting with the screws.  Allow for a ½” expansion space between the plywood and any walls and 1/8” gap between square edge plywood panels. Last install 15lb black roofing paper over the plywood and install the flooring over the roofing paper. When installing the flooring use 1 ½” fasteners to prevent nails from going through the plywood.

 

2^nd method: Elastilon underlayment:

Elastilon is a 1/8” thick underlayment with a self adhesive system.  To use this product over concrete you will have to apply a 6 mil poly sheeting over the concrete first, overlapping the seam 6” and tape with duct tape. Roll out the Elastilon perpendicular to the direction of your floor installation. Butt the seams of the Elastion together (do not overlap). Next begin your installation of the flooring following Elastilons’ installation instructions. When using Elastilon cull out badly bowed or twisted board and add 15% more wood for waste.

ELASTILON underlayment installation

Pets and Hardwood Floors, You Can Have Both!

Over 60% of Americans have pets.  If you're like me, they are part of the family.  Sometimes, our four-legged friends make us consider what is best for our home, including our flooring.  I was talking to our Tech & Install guys asking them about their advice for families who have pets in their homes.  Here are some of their recommendations and tips.

•For dogs we recommend buying a hard species of ¾” hardwood flooring like Brazilian Teak, Brazilian Walnut, Brazilian Ebony, Natural Strand Bamboo, Acacia, Brazilian Cherry, and Hickory. Many people even have ¾” thick Red Oak and White Oak flooring in there homes with dogs. ¾” hardwood works best and will last longer as it can be refinished many times in the future. Low gloss laminate flooring with an AC Rating of 3 can also work because laminates tend to be more scratch resistant.  The key to protecting your flooring from dog scratches is to trim their nails or cover them with vinyl claw covers. www.softclaws.com

•If you have a type of dog that sheds, you may want to consider choosing a floor color that matches the color of the dogs hair to make the hair on the flooring stand out less.

•Be sure to place your dog’s drinking bowls over a mat to catch any spills

•Pet urine contains uric acid and ammonia which can cause a finish to dull and can discolor a hardwood floor, typically making it a dark or black color in appearance.  This is especially true if the pet urinates in the same spot over and over again.

• Cleaning up pet urine with water and ammonia may not be a good idea as some urine contains ammonia so the animal will be attracted to the same spot again. Spot cleaning with a mixture of warm water and plain vinegar on a lightly dampened cloth will clean the floor and take care of the smell. Immediately after cleaning buff the area dry. A board replacement can be done for any damaged planks

•If a dog urinates on the floor while you are gone, you will have to clean it up immediately when you get back.

•Urine can create a smell and possibly discolor the wood if left too long or untreated.

•With laminate flooring, urine can cause the seams to swell if left unattended.

•To prevent any possible problems, have someone keep the pet while you’re away or have someone check in on them each day to clean up any mess.

•Urine will dry up and may be hard to see to clean, so a tip would be to use a black light to find the area and spot clean the area with a mixture of warm water and vinegar on a lightly damp cloth. The vinegar should take out any potential smell. Buff dry immediately after spot cleaning.

Trick of the Trade - Measuring Stair Parts

Bob, our in-house installer, has a simple & effective way for measuring stair parts, even with tricky angles without using a traditional tape measure. 

Trying to get accurate measurements for stair parts can be frustrating when using
flexible metal measuring tapes. One simple, no-cost and accurate work-around
is to create an adjustable, sliding “story stick.” Just select a straight board at least 24
inches long and cut 1 inch off each side, saving the sides and discarding the middle
piece. Then fit the tongue and groove together. Now you can quickly and easily get
inside dimensions for stairs, even with complicated angles. Rubber bands on each
end or mini spring or bar clamps can be used to secure the pieces at a given length.

 

Safety Tips When Installing a Floor

I asked our wonderful Tech & Install department to give me some of their top safety tips when installing a floor.    Safety should be one of your main concerns when installing.  No one wants a trip to the Emergency Room for something that could have been avoided.

1.) Make sure you use a mask when cutting the wood.

2.) Always cut outside, it is helpful to have a small fan blowing the dust away from the house.  Not only is this safe for you, it keeps your house a little cleaner too.

3.) Make sure power cords are fully intact.

4.) Use sharp blades when cutting the flooring to prevent wood from binding to the saw (and if you don't know what type of blade to use, check out our article on choosing a saw blade).

5.)Make sure the saws have protective shields.

6.) Ear plugs should be worn to help with loud noises.

7.) Knee pads should be worn to protect knees on hard floor surfaces.

8.) Eye glasses should be worn.

9.) Gloves can be helpful to prevent splinters.

10.) Extension cords should be moved away from the walking and cutting areas.

11.) Keep fingers away from saw blades.  Avoid cutting small pieces of wood when possible.

12.) When using a skill saw, always cut away from your body.

13.) Make sure saws are cut off when not in use.

14.) Bend knees when picking up boxes of flooring.  Have friends help you move heavier objects.  (no one wants to have back problems)

15.) When ripping out old flooring, use masks, gloves, and glasses.  Keep area clean to avoid stepping on nails. (You never know what you'll find under there)

16.) Wear steel toed shoes.

Also, before you start a project and have safety concerns, check with our Tech & Install department by contacting them at install@lumberliquidators.com.

Getting Rid of Winter Residue on Your Hardwood Floor

This winter has been cold.  And snowy.  And around here, a bit icy also.  With all of that bad weather, there comes ways to make it a little more tolerable like snow shovels, plows, and ice melt.

As useful as ice melt is outside, it can cause a little havoc on the inside of our homes, especially if you have hardwood floors.  After scouring the internet, I've found that many people don't know how to get rid of the milky residue that ice melt leaves on their floors.  And since I have a whole bunch of expertise sitting around me, I decided to ask our Tech & Install team what they would do to get rid of the residue that snow, ice, and ice melt leave on the floor.

Their best advice is to buff the area in a circular motion with warm water on a lightly damp cloth.  Buff the area with the damp cloth and then buff again with a dry cloth.  This may take several tries, but it should remove the milky residue.

If the first method doesn't do the tricky, you can try adding one cup of white vinegar diluted in one gallon of warm water.  Again, use a lightly damp cloth and buff the area in a circular motion and buff dry immediately.  Always test this method in a small spot first.

Once the milky residue is off, you should protect the floor with mats inside and outside the main entrance to prevent any ice melt from getting on the floor again.