Lumber Liquidators

Common Hardwood Myths - Part Two

Here's part two of our series on common hardwood myths.  The first one can be found HERE.

20.  Wood floors that are sanded and finished at the job-site are more durable than a factory manufactured finished floor.

     A pre-finished floor gives you the added benefit of a perfect finish applied under dust-free, ideal conditions at the factory.  Ours include from five to eight coats with aluminum oxide suspended in the finish.  The only thing harder is diamonds! Factory finishes are much harder than any product site-applied, requiring air-drying.

21.  Repairs are easier to make on a sanded and finished floor than a pre-finished floor.

     If needed, pre-finished boards can be replaced one at a time.  Job site finished boards require four or five days of sanding, staining, finishing and then waiting for the finish to dry.  After that, it may still not match the sheen of the floor.

22.  I have heard the oil-soaps are the best way to clean my wood floor.

     Soaps and detergents can leave a harmful film causing the top finishes to yellow, alligator or crack. Consult the product labeling for its expressed warranties.

23.  My wood flooring can be delivered and installed the same day.

     The industry and most wood manufacturers recommend that solid wood flooring be delivered to the job site at least 3-5 days before the installation. This properly acclimates the wood to "normal living conditions'. Temperature of 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with the HVAC fan left in the “on” position to provide a continuous flow of air across the floor are ideal.  Most engineered wood floors require about one day for acclimation. Be sure to check our installation guidelines for various products on our web site.

 24.   I only have white oak and red oak to choose from.

     Although White and Red Oak is still very popular, we have hundreds of beautiful Exotic wood species along with Cork and Bamboo from forests from all over the world. Many are offered in wider widths of 3”, 4”, 5”. The choice is yours.

 25.  When my wood is delivered can I store it in the garage, out of the weather?

     No. Wood flooring should never be stored in a garage, in a basement, directly on cement or in out buildings. No exposure to moisture of any type should be permitted.  Uncontrolled humidity or moisture vapors can penetrate into the wood flooring, causing it to swell or cup.

 26. Wood floors cannot be installed in a basement on a concrete floor.

     Not so.  We offer many fine quality engineered wood floors that feature cross-grain ply construction.  These floors are very stable and resist expansion and contraction.  Be sure to test your concrete floor for excessive levels of moisture over 3%.  Concrete installations (Gluedown or Floating) normally require moisture barriers.

27. I expect to get a wood floor to be all the same color, like the store sample.

     Wood is a natural product with patterns and color variations created in a living tree, like all of nature never to be repeated.  A small sample containing only a few grain patterns and shades of a species could never completely represent a fully installed floor with hundreds of pieces. If you prefer more uniformity in color and shade exotics may not be for you, consider our Dura-wood stained products.

 28. I expect my floor to have a “table top finish”.

      Wood floors are not tabletop material.  Hardwood floors that are pre-finished are milled to exacting specifications.  However, you may feel a slight variation from plank to plank, when walking across the floor in your bare feet. We offer both micro bevel and square edged materials.

 29. Hardwood floors are indestructible.

      Despite today's advanced technology, water spills, dirt and other abrasive substances can damage a wood floor's finish.  Location, traffic patterns, how often the floor is vacuumed and cleaned, children and/or pets are all factor that influence wear.

 30. Engineered floors are not “real wood” floors.

           Engineered floors have a real hardwood veneer wear layer with a multi-layer cross grain construction, perfect for at-grade or below-grade cement installations. These can be re-sanded about two times.

 31. If I get down on my hands and knees, I can see all kinds of small defects.

     Product claims are viewed/determined from a standing position.

 32. My basement, crawl space, or concrete slab looks dry so I should not have any problems with a new wood floor.

 About 90% of installation complaints are due to moisture, your installer should always check the subfloor and protect against moisture before installing the floor. Moisture issues are job site related.

 33. I have radiant heat, so I can't install a new wood floor.

     Many of our floors work well over radiant heat such as Floating, Laminates and Engineered. For solid wood, always shop for stability. Ask your sales assistant about this. Be sure to follow the radiant heat manufacturer’s guideline for thermostat controls. Do not exceed 85F surface temperatures.

 34.   I was told to re-seal my  hardwood or bamboo after installation to protect it against pet urine, vomit or spills.                                                                                                              

      Regular cleaning is always recommended however applying another sealer over the original finish will void the warranty. Once between the boards sealers can promote gapping and act as an adhesive preventing normal expansion of the flooring.

 35.  The area is prone to moisture and/or high humidity, can I still have a wood floor?

              If using wood, Engineered is the floor of choice. However Ceramic tiles and  Vinyl may be best.

 36.  Full bathrooms and laundry rooms are fine for wood floor installation.

      Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.

      37.  Is your Aluminum Oxide floor finish harmful?

There are no issues with Aluminum Oxide floor finish. These microscopic  Aluminum Oxide crystals are added into the finishes. Once cured, it is completely safe for our children and pets.

 

It is recommended, however, to do all board cutting outside in order to protect against breathing even normal wood dust. It is in this dust state that Aluminum Oxide and wood fibers can have a respiratory effect on people.

  38. Do I have any way to get my technical installation questions answered?

     Yes, you do.  Just call 1-800-366-4204 and ask to speak with our installation specialists or leave a message. You can also go online and visit our web site and receive installation instructions and advice.

 

Common Hardwood Myths - Part One

Our Tech & Install team is always looking out for you.  In this two part article, we explain some of the common myths placed on hardwood floors and dubunk them. 

Common Hardwood Myths

 1.     Wood floors should not be used in a kitchen.

     Kitchens are one of the most popular rooms in the house for hardwood floors.  Built to withstand heavy traffic and give long lasting beauty with minimal maintenance, hardwood floors are a perfect choice.

 2.     Damp mopping is the best way to clean a wood floor.

     To the contrary, water and wood do not mix.  Throw away that bucket and mop!  Water causes deterioration of the wood itself as well as the finish. Use maintenance products and procedures that will not harm your urethane finish. Ensure compatibility with urethane finishes.

 3.     Hardwood floors should not scratch or dent.

Although Hardwood floors of all species are durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of daily life, top finishes and wood can still scratch or dent given enough applied pressure or resistance. Higher gloss will show more imperfections. Manufactures do not warrant against scratching and denting

 4.     High heel shoes will not damage a wood floor.

     High heels or spiked heels are damaging to hardwood flooring.  They strike the floor with more force per inch than an elephant's foot.  High or spiked heels in disrepair are especially harmful, as the heel acts much like a tiny hammer pounding away at the floor with as much force as 10,000 pounds per inch!

 5.     When wood floors warp or cup, it is because the wood flooring is defective.

     Cupping is due to excess moisture or over drying and is considered jobsite related. Improper water maintenance, a plumbing leak, or moisture from the crawl space, basement, concrete slab or high/low-relative humidity can be the reasons.

 6.     If my wood floor changes colors or fades, it is because the finish or wood is defective.

No. Actually all wood floors can experience color shade change overtime. American cherry and many exotic species like Brazilian Cherry, Tiger wood, are photosensitive and will gain a richer, darker patina.  Area rugs and large furniture that cover the floor should be moved periodically to allow exposure to UV light and air on the area.  Eventually, the entire floor will reach the same even shading. There are no known values established for this natural condition, therefore, Manufactures do not warrant against these natural characteristics beyond its control.

 7.     I should be able to use every piece of wood I purchase.

     Realistically, wood is a product of nature and not perfect.  The industry allows a tolerance not to exceed 5% for defective boards, natural or manufacturer related, based on the total purchase. Some 8-10% for the exotics. If board width size seems to vary during installation, place boards of the same width size together in the same row.

  8.     If I find a defective board after the floor is installed, the manufacturer will replace or repair it.

     No. It is the responsibility of the installer/customer to inspect the floor to be installed and be selective in choosing each board in quality, grading, and natural color variation before installing it.  Once installed, the floorboards are deemed to be acceptable to both the installer and the end-user. If necessary, individual board replacements can be accomplished.

 9.     If my wood floor shows gaps between boards in the winter months, it is defective.

Nearly every wood floor endures some separation in between boards.  In winter, when homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring gives up some of its moisture and shrinks.  When that happens, cracks appear between the boards.  In the spring, when the heat is off and the indoor environment regains moisture, most gaps normally close.

Wood boards become dormant with indoor humidity levels of 30-50%and temperatures of 60-80F.

 10.  Kitchen floor cleaner with vinegar, ammonia, or abrasive cleaners are the best products to use when cleaning my floor.

     Never use these kinds of cleaners, as they can dull and damage your hardwood floors and void warranties. Use products safe for urethane finishes.

 

11.  It is best to keep the relative humidity low or dry in my home.

     The wood flooring industry recommends that you keep the environment at “normal living conditions”. That is a temperature from 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with a continuous flow of air across the floor.

 12.  My floor has more different colors and grain variations than the store sample, so I must not have received what I ordered.

     Wood floors are like snowflakes.  No two trees are alike; no two boards will be alike, even if taken from the same tree let alone from the same species growing different part of the world.  Furniture, cabinetry, doors, etc., are fabricated under ideal conditions and may contain 1-10 different pieces of wood.  Your floor is assembled in your own home, and is made up of 300 to over 1,000 different pieces of wood. Your custom floor is unique, never to be duplicated!

 13.  All hardwood species and wood floors have the same hardness factor.

      Not true.  All hardwood floors can dent, mar and scratch under various conditions. The wood industries have developed a Hardness rating scale or Janka scale that represents the resistance of wood to denting, marring, and wear.  The higher the number, the harder the species, and the more resistant it is. Red Oak is 1290, Brazilian Cherry is 2890, and Brazilian Walnut is 3680. Bamboo is a grass product its hardness can be compared to that of Maple or Hard Pine, though not held to the same standards.

 14.  It is always best to use my vacuum with a rotating brush to remove grit and debris from my wood floor.

     While weekly vacuuming is important for removing dirt and grit, A hard bristle brush beater bar can scratch and damage your hardwood.

 15.  My roller chairs should not damage my wood flooring.

     Roller chair wheels can damage a wood floor if equipped with hard plastic or metal rollers.  The wood industry recommends barrel-type rollers made of non-marring rubber.

 16.  Tables, chairs, and furniture should not scratch or dent my wood floor.

     Wood is a natural material and can dent or scratch.  Place adhesive felt furniture pads on the legs of chairs and all furniture to prevent damage to the floor's surface.

 17.  Wood floors require a lot of time and effort to maintain them.

     Unlike other types of floor coverings, hardwood floors can be kept looking like new with a minimum amount of effort.  Never damp mop your floor.  Use only products designed for wood floors.  Just spray and dry mop the floor.

 18.   Will Wood floors increase the value of my home?

     A quality hardwood floor will offer a lifetime of beauty and service and is an investment that will add considerable value to your home whether for your own enjoyment or for resale value.

 19.  Wormholes, mineral streaks, and knots are defects in wood.

     Because wood is a product of nature, most character marks such as pinholes, mineral streaks, and knots are allowed in most grades.  If a board is undesirable to you, tell your installer not to install it or cut it out. All wood manufacturers state that the responsibility for final inspection and approval is that of the installer and consumer.  Once the board has been installed, it is deemed to have been accepted by the installer and homeowner.  No claim for an installed board that is visibly defective will be honored.

Recent Customer Projects

We love seeing how awesome our customer's projects have turned out. We're going to show a few off so everyone can see how amazing they look!

 

Bellawood Brazilian Cherry

 

Bellawood Brazilian Walnut

Builder's Pride Red Oak

Glacier Peak Poplar

Horizontal Carbonized Bamboo

Natural Hickory

Vintner's Reserve

How do I acclimate my wood, cork or laminate floor?

Have we mentioned that you should acclimate?  Once, twice, maybe?  Well, here are a few recommendations when it comes to acclimating your new floor before you install it.

For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

To prevent moisture build-up, homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation.  Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely Cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape

Cork Flooring Links

Store CORK  Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in open packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed.

Laminate Links 

Store Laminate Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in unopened packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed. For floors with radiant heating make sure to turn down your thermostat to 15°C / 60°F at least 1 week prior to installation (do not turn off heating if the temperature outside is below freezing). Maintain the temperature below 27°C / 80°F.

 Solid Wood Domestic and Exotic Links 

All wood products are affected by environmental conditions especially prefinished materials. Acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed to normal lived-in conditions while in the boxes. If products are protected in plastic open the ends of the boxes. Length of time is not the determining factor. The goal is to reach an equilibrium or moisture balance between the new flooring with its surroundings before installation. This balance could be achieved in as little as 1 to 5 days, or longer for some exotic species. For best performance, condition the flooring to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and indoor humidity levels of 30% - 50%. Very dry or humid regions usually require extended conditioning. Recommended acclimation levels maintained even after the installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper jobsite conditions, acclimation and moisture testing the subfloor and new flooring and all work together for the success of the installation. This is the responsibility of those overseeing the project.

 

Moisture Test! Water & Wood Don't Mix

Approximately 85% of all installation failures are resulting from moisture problems. Therefore, the purpose of this post is to outline typical moisture testing, planning and procedures designed to help your installation be a successful one.

The installation of Lumber Liquidators, Inc.("LLI") wood flooring should not commence until conditions are determined to be "dry" according to industry moisture testing standards. Testing is to include, (a) the new wood flooring, (b) the wood subfloor or cement slab.

It is the responsibility of the professional flooring contractor or the Do-It-Yourselfer (DIY) to inspect and test jobsite moisture conditions prior to the commencement of any flooring system to ensure compliance with established hardwood industry standards. It is understood that moisture testing only establishes the existence of moisture at the time of testing and does not forecast future moisture issues. Installers would not be held responsible for moisture problems arising after the installation providing testing was conducted and normal moisture remediation was completed before installation. The point of moisture testing is to establish when the new flooring and substrate is actually ready for installation or the need to reschedule the work until conditions are acceptable.

Testing concrete

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST

THE POLYFILM TEST

THE PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless

Testing concrete
LLI does not recommend installation of any flooring system over a newly-installed concrete slab within 60 days of pour. Concrete slab drying time is affected by the type of construction, concrete formulation, location of the building and climatic/environmental conditions. Vapor barriers or under-slab membranes, while recommended, can increase slab-drying times, therefore accurate testing should not commence until after some 90 days of cure time. When conducting slab moisture testing, conduct tests in several areas regardless of the age of the slab. If the test(s) indicate a wet slab, document the results and delay installation of the flooring until corrected.
The use of an electronic concrete moisture meter to determine slab moisture emission is not reliable nor recommended. This is because electronic meters measure moisture content in the slab, usually in terms of an overall percentage and register moisture content only at 1% of the surface, while other meters register an average only in a vertical downward direction where placed. Metered moisture content values may indicate degree of saturation of a slab, but not the on-going emission rate that is occurring at the time.

The Following are several industry-recognized concrete slab moisture tests that provide quantitative measurements of moisture emission. All tests should be conducted at several different locations in a room--typically along exterior walls and walls with plumbing enclosures.

Common testing methods for moisture

THE CALCIUM CHLORIDE TEST: The calcium chloride test is one of the oldest and most legally recognized concrete moisture tests. This test has been used most often by flooring retailers and contractors. The cost can run about $50 or $60 per test. Depending on the kit purchased results can be acquired immediately, or sent away for documentation and reading. The calcium chloride test works by measuring changes in weight of anhydrous calcium chloride crystals.

Typical procedure: a small plastic dish of anhydrous calcium crystals is weighed to determine moisture content. 1st, after sanding or scarifying the cement surface (fig 1) the entire dish is weighed on a gram scale prior to placement and the weight, date and time the test was started must be recorded. The lid is then opened, and the dish of crystals is carefully set down on the concrete for 60 to 72 hours. The dish is enclosed within a 7-by-10-inch cover, which is then sealed with plastic tape to the concrete (fig 2). During this time, the only source of moisture being absorbed by the anhydrous crystals is what can evaporate out of the covered concrete surface area. A note of caution: Use care in lid dealing and removal of the dish, and weighing as exposure to atmosphere will dramatically effect the results.

At the end of the test, the dome is removed and the lid is placed back on the dish and sealed. Again the dish is weighed on the gram scale and the date and time are marked. The change in weight is multiplied by a constant and divided by hours to provide an estimated rate of evaporation, in pounds.

(fig1)
(fig2)

For example, water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Pounds, is the equivalent weight of water that evaporates out of a 1,000-square foot surface area during 24 hours. If the test reports 8.3 pounds emission, then one-gallon of water is leaving a 1,000 square foot surface area in 24 hours. A conservative but generally recommended allowable amount of moisture emission as expressed by the calcium chloride test is 3.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours at the time of the installation of the flooring.

THE POLYFILM TEST: Several pieces of plastic film, 18”- 24” squares of are placed at key points on the cement, seal all four sides with silver duct tape. After 24 hours, the plastic film is removed and inspected for signs of condensation. If beads of water are found on the subfloor or the concrete appears darker this is a heads-up that further testing is necessary. If there is no indication of moisture under the plastic film, one can assume the installation may proceed. The reading is valid at 24 hours, but it's even better if the test can stay in place until 72 hours have passed. The plastic film test can also be "accelerated" by using a heat source such as a 40 to 60 watt light bulb safely placed 18” above the plastic.

PHENOLPHTHALEIN TEST: This moisture test uses a 3 percent phenolphthalein solution (fig1) in water-free ethyl alcohol. Dime sized holes,1/4-inch deep, are drilled in various areas of the slab, particularly around walls. Then two drops of the solution are applied into each of the drilled areas. If there's no color change in the solution, there should not be enough moisture and the alkalinity is not high enough to affect the installation. But if the phenolphthalein turns pink or dark red within five minutes and the pH is 9.0 or higher, further testing must be done with a more precise method. This should NOT be the only method used for testing moisture. Color of concrete surfaces: The "proper" color of concrete should be a light yellowish-grey (similar to limestone) not sugar white. In fact, a sugar-white surface usually means the concrete was improperly cured and can create a severe moisture problem later on (usually months later). This is due to the poor hydration of cement within the surface, creating a disproportionately high water to cement ratio...that appears white.
(fig1)
(fig2)

pH paper or litmus paper test:
Both the phenolphthalein and litmus paper tests measure the alkalinity of the surface of the concrete. Determining if cement is alkali free is important for glue down installations on concrete. Excess alkalinity(salts) can contribute to adhesive failure. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. However, it is the excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete, as this condition will deposit the excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test (fig2) will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface. Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and apply a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above10.

Testing new wood flooring and subfloors

Moisture Meters: probe and pinless Probe or pin-type meters (fig1) are fast and easy to use. They come with different measurement indicators. The lower-cost units have L.E.D. display lights indicating different moisture levels; the better-quality units have analog or digital displays and provision for different species and wood temperatures.

The pinless meters (fig2) are also referred to as "non-destructive" because these don't leave small testing holes in the wood. Signal penetration for pinless meters is up to 1 inch for both hardwood and softwood. The meter can be moved across the surface to identify pockets of moisture in a wood block or plank. It is relatively unaffected by temperature. Rough surfaces have very little effect on the reading. Measurements can also be taken through coating, varnish or paint without damage to the surface.

One advantage of probe type meters is that those with insulated pins can measure moisture content at varying depths--you can tell whether the moisture content near the bottom of a board is higher than near the top.

Deciding which kind of moisture meter to buy is a matter of sorting through the features you think you will need, and how often you may use it, and then understanding the various features and benefits. It is important that the meter you choose offers the following:

• A clear analog or digital dial.
• A moisture content range from at least 6 percent to 30 percent.
• The necessary adjustment tables for various species; (some meters have a built in adjustment for this function)

(fig1)

(fig2)

Testing Wood Subfloors: Wood subfloors are actually easy to check for moisture content. Just test for moisture at several locations in the room and average the results (fig1). In most regions of the country, a "dry" wood subfloor that is ready to work has a moisture content of 12 percent or less, or down to about 7% in states with low (RH) relative humidity. If excessively high readings are obtained, installation should not proceed until the origin of the moisture is identified and moisture problems are remedied. During the winter, an overly moist subfloor can be dried out by running the heat for a few weeks. Air conditioning during the summer will do the same thing.
Before installation, the moisture content of the subfloor should be within 4% percentage points of the new flooring (fig2). If the moisture content between the new flooring and subflooring varies more than 4 percentage points or 2% for boards wider than 2 1/2” the flooring should not be installed.
fig1) 

(fig2)

Please direct inquiries to Lumber Liquidators Technical Department at 800-366-4204

Hey vets, come home and don't go anywhere else.

What Do I Need First? A Job Site Checklist!

Not entirely sure what is best for you?  What tools will you need?  Use this handy job site checklist before you get started to figure out some of those pesky questions you may not know the answer to.  It will be useful for your installer or your local Lumber Liquidators store even if you plan on installing yourself!

Download General Installation CheckList NWFA

How to Install Williamsburg Butcher Block

Looking for something unique for your kitchen and more affordable than granite? Have you considered butcher blocks?  Lumber Liquidators carries two types of butcher blocks, Maple and American Cherry.  It can give a great country or homey feel to a kitchen.

Here are steps from our Tech & Install team helping you with your Butcher Block Installation.

1.) Measure the depth of your cabinet, adding desired about of overhang.

2.) Cut Butcher Block panel to size

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the width you want if desired width is less than 25 inches

    - Cut Butcher Block panel to the length you wan if desired length is less than purchased length

3.) Ease front edge of counter top

    - Select router bit for desired profile

    - Sand edge smooth

4.) Prepare cabinets to accept Butcher Block panel.

    - For open-top cabinets, install blocking across cabinet width, approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch from        top of cabinet

        - Pre-drill pilot holes through blocking and fasten to cabinet with wood screws

    - For solid-top cabinets, install furring strips across cabinet length

        - Bond strips to cabinet with construction adhesive/sealant

5.) Drill holes (1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter) through either blocking installed on open-top cabinets or top of solid-top cabinets.

6.) Apply bead of construction adhesive/sealant to either blocking or furring strips

7.) Position counter top on cabinet.

8.) Drill smaller diameter pilot hole into underside of counter top through larger holes previously drilled in blocking or top of cabinet.

    - Use caution not to drill through top of counter top

9.) Secure counter top to cabinet

    - Fit a wood screw with washer that is wider in diameter than holes in blocking or top of cabinet

    - Insert screw through hole and fasten to underside of counter top until cabinet fits snugly against        top of cabinet (Select screw length that will not penetrate counter top face)

10.) Finish your countertop as desired.

    - Treat with food-grade mineral oil for use as working food preparation surface.

    - Finish with other product approved for intended use.

 

 

Nail Down Installation and the Best Machines & Fasteners

There are many types of flooring out there.  If you plan on doing a nail down installation, it seems like there is the same number of cleats, nails, staples, and installation guns.  Hopefully, we can clear a little of it up for you.

Our Tech and Install Department has done a lot of leg work for us to come up with some very valuable resources regarding which products you should use.

As a quick overview, there are many companies that make Hardwood  nailing machines, few will have all the accessories, adaptor plates and styles of fasteners needed for the many types of floorings we carry.

 The POWERNAIL CO. is able to match up both the correct Nail machine and fasteners for a complete system for most wood floors.

 The MODELS  50P & 50M are excellent for the installation of both Engineered and Solids ranging in sizes from 3/8” to 5/8,-(especially the harder exotic woods).These models use a thin cleat nail –(size .050) as thick as a dime, ranging from 1” to 1-1/2” in length.

 The MODELS 200P & 250M are also designed for Engineered wood, sizes from 5/16” to 5/8”, (great for the Nail-down Bamboo products) sizes 1/2" to 5/8”. These models also use a thin cleat nail – (size.035) as thick as a paper match.

 These models are designed to minimize tongue fracture common with Wire gage staplers and protect board edges and the surface area. However, even when using a recommended nailer tongue fractures can still happen. Some brittle woods like 1/2" Australian Cypress work well gluing down with 100% urethane adhesives rather than nailing, especially for border work. Brittle woods do best with the thinner cleat type nails 18-20 ga.

Packaged in with these models will be the adaptor plates and shims necessary for your specified flooring size. Test a few boards for correct nail seating and verify that the board edge is damage free, make any adjustments.

Actually for some species of wood like Blood wood, Ebony, Teaks, Brazilian Rosewood and Brazilian Cherry, the "pre-drill and hand nailing" method may be needed to prevent wood damage. If using a nailing machine for harder exotics watch out for any surface dimpling or mushrooming. This condition can happen when nailing denser woods. The nail actually pushes the surface of the wood upward (resulting in a surface dimple) to receive the nail. If floor-nailing machines will not correctly nail the wood without dimpling the surface or fracturing the tongues, it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail some species, just as a carpenter would when working around fine furniture or cabinetry. 

Many professional installers understand this and often charge slightly more for installation of these “iron woods” as the correct installation can take 2-3 times longer!

Additional resources can be found here:

Bamboo Nailing Recommendations

NAILERS/STAPLERS

NOFMA Nailing Schedule

 

New Eco Friendly Underlayments

Here at Lumber Liquidators, we always are trying to come out with new and innovative products that are great for your home.  There are two new products that we have recently released that have so many great qualities about them.  First, they are green products.  Second, they are great for homes for people who are chemically sensitive.

Silicone Vapor Shield

This underlayment is  great alternative to some of the other products on the market today.  One of the best features of this product is that it protects the home environment by not relasing any toxic fumes after installation as some asphalt based products do.  Besides being good for you, it's good for the environment because it is 100% recylced and 100% recyclable.

It also doesn't fall apart underath the floor after intallation. As well, it protects hardwood flooring from moisturand helps planks slide easily for continuous moisture protection.

One of it's most unique features, however, is that it is the only underlayment paper that can be used over radiant heat. 

Definitely a product you should check into, and it can be found here for a great price.

Eco Silent Sound HD^TM

Some products really stand out, and Eco Silent is one of them.  It is made with 100% post consumer recycled granulated rubber tires and a high-density polyurethan foam.  Not only is it created with recycled product, it is also 100% recyclable.  This is a great "green" product for those looking to leave less of a carbon footprint.

It also reduces floor noise by providing excellent sound absiorption.  For those who worry about mold, it contains Ultra-Fresh^TM which is anti-microbial treatment to resist mold and mildew.

Eco Silent can be used with floating, glue down, and nail down wood, laminate, LVT and vinyl plank flooring.  It will also eliminate minor subfloor imperfections as well as provide cushioning under laminates. Plus, it can be used with radiant heat. 

Definitely a great product at a great value, and can be found here.

If you are planning on installing a new floor, make sure you consider what you put UNDER your floor as well.  It will help you have a better experience and can provide your family with a fantastic floor for years to come.

Installing Bellawood ¾” Solid Wood Over Concrete

Many homes are on a concrete slab and a big question we often get is how to install over concrete.  So I asked our great guys over at Tech & Install to give us some ideas on how to install 3/4" solid Bellawood over concrete.

1^st method: Floating plywood subfloor system:

Concrete should be clean and level up to 1/8” over 6’. Apply a 6mil mil poly sheeting over the concrete overlapping the seams 6 inches and tape with duct tape.  Install a layer of 1/2” plywood over the poly sheeting. Next install a second layer of 1/2” plywood at a 45 degree angle to the first layer. Screw the top layer of plywood to the bottom layer. Be sure not to penetrate the poly sheeting with the screws.  Allow for a ½” expansion space between the plywood and any walls and 1/8” gap between square edge plywood panels. Last install 15lb black roofing paper over the plywood and install the flooring over the roofing paper. When installing the flooring use 1 ½” fasteners to prevent nails from going through the plywood.

 

2^nd method: Elastilon underlayment:

Elastilon is a 1/8” thick underlayment with a self adhesive system.  To use this product over concrete you will have to apply a 6 mil poly sheeting over the concrete first, overlapping the seam 6” and tape with duct tape. Roll out the Elastilon perpendicular to the direction of your floor installation. Butt the seams of the Elastion together (do not overlap). Next begin your installation of the flooring following Elastilons’ installation instructions. When using Elastilon cull out badly bowed or twisted board and add 15% more wood for waste.

ELASTILON underlayment installation