Lumber Liquidators

Trick of the Trade - Measuring Stair Parts

Bob, our in-house installer, has a simple & effective way for measuring stair parts, even with tricky angles without using a traditional tape measure. 

Trying to get accurate measurements for stair parts can be frustrating when using
flexible metal measuring tapes. One simple, no-cost and accurate work-around
is to create an adjustable, sliding “story stick.” Just select a straight board at least 24
inches long and cut 1 inch off each side, saving the sides and discarding the middle
piece. Then fit the tongue and groove together. Now you can quickly and easily get
inside dimensions for stairs, even with complicated angles. Rubber bands on each
end or mini spring or bar clamps can be used to secure the pieces at a given length.

 

Safety Tips When Installing a Floor

I asked our wonderful Tech & Install department to give me some of their top safety tips when installing a floor.    Safety should be one of your main concerns when installing.  No one wants a trip to the Emergency Room for something that could have been avoided.

1.) Make sure you use a mask when cutting the wood.

2.) Always cut outside, it is helpful to have a small fan blowing the dust away from the house.  Not only is this safe for you, it keeps your house a little cleaner too.

3.) Make sure power cords are fully intact.

4.) Use sharp blades when cutting the flooring to prevent wood from binding to the saw (and if you don't know what type of blade to use, check out our article on choosing a saw blade).

5.)Make sure the saws have protective shields.

6.) Ear plugs should be worn to help with loud noises.

7.) Knee pads should be worn to protect knees on hard floor surfaces.

8.) Eye glasses should be worn.

9.) Gloves can be helpful to prevent splinters.

10.) Extension cords should be moved away from the walking and cutting areas.

11.) Keep fingers away from saw blades.  Avoid cutting small pieces of wood when possible.

12.) When using a skill saw, always cut away from your body.

13.) Make sure saws are cut off when not in use.

14.) Bend knees when picking up boxes of flooring.  Have friends help you move heavier objects.  (no one wants to have back problems)

15.) When ripping out old flooring, use masks, gloves, and glasses.  Keep area clean to avoid stepping on nails. (You never know what you'll find under there)

16.) Wear steel toed shoes.

Also, before you start a project and have safety concerns, check with our Tech & Install department by contacting them at install@lumberliquidators.com.

One Project Closer: Brazilian Walnut Installation & Review

Hey guys, we love when people actually show us what they did with their wood floors.  The folks over at One Project Closer installed Bellawood Brazilian Walnut and a couple of months later, reviewed us & the flooring.  To see more about their project visit HERE.

To see their review, click HERE.

We want to thank them for being honest and doing a great job installing.  Their floors look amazing and they really took the time and effort necessary to install flooring correctly.

How to Install Bellawood Prefinished Hardwood Floors

To help you with your installation project, I asked the Tech & Install team to provide me with instructions for installing your new Bellawood prefinished floor if you choose to tackle the project yourself.

For a print out version and approved installation methods, please download the attachment that is part of this post. 

PRODUCT USEAGE
Bellawood® solid prefinished domestic and exotic products are installed using standard hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. While Professional installers have preferences, both types work well. Installers also understand how species variations will affect workability. Some species tend to be very hard, others somewhat brittle during nailing. These natural characteristic are not considered defects. To prevent board damage, nailing methods such as hand nailing may be required when installing the harder species like Rose wood, Walnut or Teaks. See our nailing recommendations.
The Bellawood® solid lower profile flooring sizes (1/2”- 5/16”) is installed using specially designed pneumatic hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. Ensure that you are using the correct sized fasteners and adaptors. These sizes can also be glued to plywood or with an approved moisture barrier can be glued on concrete. DO NOT nail or glue solid products below-grade.
Bellawood® can also be installed over in-floor radiant heat, however not all species are recommended for this application. Choose species with higher stability ratings and always use moisture barriers, details are outlined in this document. Installations outside these guidelines are viewed as experimental.

OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITIES - Install flooring in proper lighting
Exotic and domestic hardwoods are beautiful and unique products of nature characterized by distinctive variations in grain pattern and color. These natural variations are not flaws; rather they make up the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring and should be expected. Only topically stained products will have the most uniformity in color or shade. Our floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%, of a manufacturing or natural type. When flooring is ordered, depending on layout or species, 8 - 12% extra material should be added to the actual square footage needed for board selection and cutting. Diagonal layouts or custom installations usually require about 15% more. During installation any boards deemed unacceptable should be replaced using the extra material ordered. The use of putty, stains, filler sticks or touch up markers to correct defects in prefinished wood during installation is accepted as a normal procedure. Board width variances are considered normal for boards and all organic materials. To minimize board edge gapping, board widths greater than 1/16” should be selected out and used all together in the same row or placed in closets or near walls. The customer/installer assumes responsibility for final inspection of product quality. Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installing. Use reasonable selectivity and judgment, select out or cut off pieces with glaring defects. If more than 5% of the material is unusable contact your local store or call CUSTOMER CARE 800-366-4204 immediately. Before beginning the installation the installer must determine if job site and subfloor conditions are acceptable. Installers must be up-to-date with installation procedures.

Lumber Liquidators denies any responsibility for problems arising from job site failures, environmental or moisture issues, inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors, poor installations and improper tool usage.

JOB SITE INSPECTION
For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

ACCLIMATION/CONDITIONING THE FLOORING
Wood products are affected by environmental conditions. Before installation, acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed 10-14 days for most dense exotic species or 2 – 7 days for domestic (North American) species to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and constant indoor humidity levels of 35% - 55%. Very dry or humid regions may require extended conditioning. Proper acclimation levels maintained after installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper acclimation is the responsibility of purchaser/installer.

HANDLE WITH CARE
To prevent board warping or bowing; do not cut the packaging plastic support bindings until ready to install. Do not stand flooring on ends or sides. Do not store directly on bare concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed as close to the center of the installation area as possible. Store flat, supporting the ends and center sections. Store in a dry place being sure to provide air flow under and around cartons. Keep out of direct sunlight and away from air vents.

VENTILATED CRAWL SPACES

To prevent moisture build-up homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation. Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape.

Delay installation until the above guidelines are completed.

MOISTURE
[CAUTION] Lumber Liquidators recommends the use of moisture barriers. Most installation failures result from a moisture imbalance. All subfloors must be tested for moisture content. Know your moisture levels and document the readings. Do not deliver flooring to the jobsite until moisture problems are corrected.

Wood subfloors: Determine if conditions are dry before installing. Wood subfloor moisture reading must not exceed 12%; the ideal moisture content within new wood flooring is 6%-9%. The differential balance between new boards and subfloor must not exceed 4% or 2% for board widths over 2 1/4”. If moisture readings are too high, postpone the installation, find the moisture source and correct. Raise heat and increase ventilation, holding off installation until proper conditions are met. Do not use pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.

Concrete subfloor: Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60 to 90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured. Moisture testing establishes the presence of moisture at the time of measurement. Of greater concern is future moisture transferring up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.

CEMENT MOISTURE TESTING PROCEDURES
Calcium chloride test is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab. The emission of moisture through the slab must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours. Calcium chloride test kits are available at most flooring supply distributors.

Phenolphthalein tests may also be performed by using a 3% phenolphthalein solution in water-free alcohol. Drill dime-sized holes, ¼" deep, in various areas of the concrete slab, particularly around the walls. Then apply two drops of the solution into each of the drilled holes. If there is no color change in the solution, then there is not enough moisture to affect the installation. If the solution turns pink or dark red within five minutes, further testing must be done with a moisture Encounter meter or calcium chloride test kit.

A simple “condensation test” may be performed by taping 18"x18" polyethylene sheets in several locations on the concrete slab. Lamps are then placed close enough to warm these areas and allowed to remain in place for 48 hours. Moisture under the plastic sheets or darkening of the concrete surface under the sheets is an indication of moisture in the concrete.

Alkalinity test recommended for gluedowns. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. Alkali is excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete depositing excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface; Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and place a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above 10. Contact adhesive manufacturer for corrective instructions.

Wood floor owner and installer are solely and jointly responsible for site conditions, pre-installation moisture checking of new floor and subfloor and must ensure that all conditions and specifications listed in this guide have been thoroughly met prior to installation.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Do not install flooring directly over joist without subflooring.
All structural panels/underlayment must be installed sealed-side down, and provide ¾” perimeter spacing. Square-edged or non tongue and grooved panels used as a subfloor will require a minimum 1/8˝ (3 mm) expansion space between all plywood seams.
Panels must meet minimum CDX grade Exposure 1 and US Voluntary Product Standard PS1-95, PS2-04 or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92 for construction sheathing. Check underside of panel for codes. Minimum of 3/8˝panel thickness is recommended when used as an underlayment.

Note that joist spacing determines minimum subfloor thickness.
• Joist spacing 16” on center (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (5/8˝) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”) Advantech Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing 16” up to 19.2” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing over 19.2”up to maximum 24” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (7/8”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (1”)
• Particleboard or Masonite: is not recommended, remove or cover with 3/8” plywood.
•Avoid pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.

Flat wood subfloors
• The final surface must be flat to within 3/16" in a 6' radius, or within ¼” in 10’. Subfloor must be securely nailed or screwed down to joists to prevent movement or squeaks. Install over 16” center-to-center joist sub-structure. Thoroughly inspect and replace existing floor or subfloor that shows evidence of water damage or structural weakness. Check for and repair any sagging or loose sections of a wood subfloor. Squeaky or loose boards should be re-nailed. An uneven or cupped wood subfloor is an indication of excess moisture, identify and correct. High spots may be planed or sanded down. Low spots should be cut out and repaired or may be filled with old pieces of firm vinyl or build up with 30 lb. black roofing paper. Do not fill low areas under naildown flooring with cement patches as these will break down over time.

Flat concrete
• A flat cement surface is very important when gluing down ridged solid wood. The final surface must be flat to within 1/8" in a 6' radius, or within 3/16” in 10’. Sand or grind down high spots. Fill valleys or low areas with cement based leveling compounds compatible with the flooring adhesives. Allow extra drying time for the leveling compounds. Do not install on new concrete less than 60-90 days old.

GENERAL INFORMATION (all installations)
• Customers are advised to be home during the installation for consultation.
• Customer and installer should discuss installation and layout to maximize satisfaction.
• Inspect flooring during installation.
• Maintain proper perimeter expansion gap.
• Trim bottom of the door frame with handsaw to insert boards underneath.
• Avoid board grouping. Board sizes should be intermingled.
• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color, shade and appearance.
• Save a box of flooring for use in future repairs.
• After installation, do not fully cover the new installation with plastic or paper. Moisture or board discoloration issues may result.
• Because jobsite conditions can be dry today and wet tomorrow the use of moisture barriers are recommended.

Board placements (all installation methods)
Incorrect

          
(Fig 1) Avoid board-end "line-up"                        (Fig 2) Avoid "H" Joints

Typically, board stagger is three times a board’s width. Proper board placement provides greater floor strength and better overall appearance of the floor.

(¾”) SOLID WOOD FASTENER SELECTION refer to [EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS] CLEAT NAILER (examples) 16 gage
Power Nailer 445 (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-323-1653

Bostich MIIFN      (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-556-6696

Cleats      

STAPLER (examples) 15 gage
Bostich MIIIFS    (Pneumatic)     staples 1/2” wide     1 ½”- 2” long
Powernail 445FS (Pneumatic)                  1/2” wide     1 ½”- 2” long

Staples

(5/16” to 5/8”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required

CLEAT NAILER (example) 18-20 gage cleats
Powernail Model 200p/250m/50p/50m (Pneumatic) Cleat nails     1”- 1 ½ ” long

(3/8”- 5/16”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required

STAPLER (examples) 18-20 gage Staples
Bostich LHF97125-2-20       (Pneumatic) staples 1”- 1 ¼” long     800-556-6696
SPOTNAILS WS4840W2      (Pneumatic)              1”- 1 ¼” long     800-323-1653
SENCO SLS20HF                     (Pneumatic)               1”                        800-543-4596
PORTA-NAIL 475                   (Pneumatic)               1”                        800-634-9281

Important: Set air compressor to 70-80 PSI. Test and adjust air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. Make sure that the fastening machine is fully adjustable, is in good working condition, is at the appropriate angle and seats properly against the tongue of the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.

[EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS]:

• Tongue fracture and surface dimpling during installation is common and can be minimized by (1) Installing the flooring in proper lighting (2) using the correct nail thickness, (3) using the recommended shoe adaptor, or (4) changing the angle of nail entry.
• To further reduce the occurrence of surface dimpling and tongue fracture the use of flooring nailers with a thinner 18-20 gage cleat nail may be needed for the harder exotics species. In addition, many installers will sometimes temporarily adjust the nailer angle by applying layers of duct tape to the bottom foot plate of the nailer. The use of an over-size base or foot plate to distribute the nailing force is encouraged. If however, surface dimpling or tongue fracture occurs when nailing the denser species, drilling pilot holes and hand nailing may be required.
• Use caution when fastening the harder exotics with Staplers. The drive bar in Staplers are wider and if fasteners are overdriven can act like a wood chisel, splitting tongues. Do not mix fasteners when nailing. Staples and cleats hold differently, when mixed can result in irregular seasonal gapping and or movement. When face or top nailing, pick areas of the grain or pattern that would best hide touch-up fillers.
• If nailers prove difficult fastening the lower profile 3/8”or 5/16” floors, many installers will use 100% urethane wood floor adhesives rather than nailers, especially with the more brittle species like; Australian Cypress, Brazilian Walnut, Teaks. Do not use significantly bowed, crooked or twisted boards. Use a wood spline or slip tongue whenever a change of board direction is needed, wood splines should be both glued and nailed into place. Forcing or pounding floor boards together with a rubber mallet during assembly may burse or damage unprotected board edges.

NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Starting point, first three rows. When installing over crawl spaces or rooms over basements use 15 lb. black roofing paper to provide some protection against moisture vapors, butt seam edges together. Red rosin paper may be used where there are no moisture issues. Install the flooring perpendicular to the floor joist. Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.
(1) Determine the starting wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark the floor the width of the floor plus the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Snap on the floor a chalk line connecting the two floor marks. While maintaining the expansion space, place the groove side along the starting wall and align the tongue side of the first row of boards on the chalk line. THE FIRST THREE ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Pre-drill and top nail the first row of boards only. Hand nail the following rows until nailing machines can be used.
(4) Next, rack-out or lay-out the floor for best visual appearance and adjust before nailing the floor.

[CAUTION]: When top nailing pre-finished wood it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail. Although pneumatic nailers are faster they easily damage the wood surface and finishes. Ensure that the nailer is not damaging the pre-finished wood.

COMPLETING THE FLOOR
• During installation, work several rows at a time, REFER to nailing schedule below. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 4”to 6˝ when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance. Top-nail the first and last rows where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or finish nailer.
• Rip or cut final row to fit and top-nail. If the final row is less than 1˝ in width it should first be edge-glued to the last UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one board.

Fastener spacing recommendations are based on board size; per (NWFA)

• Board size 2 ¼”wide x 3/4″ thick, nail placement is every 8”-10″ apart and a nail placed within 1- 3″ of each end, with at least two nails per board
• 3″w x 3/4″ place fasteners 6”- 8″ apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 4”to 8”w x 3/4″ place fasteners 6”- 8″apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 5/16” thick solid and all engineered flooring place fasteners 3”- 4”apart (for staples), 4”- 6” (for nails) and within 1- 2″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• 3/8” thick, place fasteners 6”- 8”apart and within 1- 2″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board
• ½” thick, place fasteners 10” apart and within 1- 3″ from each end with at least two fasteners per board

GLUE DOWN OVERVIEW

[TIPS]:
• Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers
• Wood floor adhesives alone are not moisture barriers.
•Glue manufacture may recommend rolling the floor throughout installation to ensure glue transfer
• For the best results, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer
• Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture.  (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).
• During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.
• Discard twisted or warped boards.
•Follow the glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.
• Mix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.
•Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.
•Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals. (Incorrect tape can harm the finish.)

[CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be advised that over-strapping wood could adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards or out-of-square floor board alignment.

ADHESIVES

Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean wet adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

Manufacturer
Mapei 800-992-6273                                                             Bostiks 800-523-6530
WFM a moisture barrier                                                           MVP a moisture barrier
Ultrabond 980, 990 solid wood adhesives                          BBA a solid wood adhesive
Eco 995 An all-in-one adhesive and moisture barrier         Vapor-Lock An all-in-one adhesive                                                                                                         and moisture barrier

TYPICAL TROWELS AND APPROXIMATE COVERAGES*

Examples shown are for estimating purposes only. Have several trowel sizes on hand as actual jobsite coverage will vary.

For moisture barriers and 5/16” to 3/8” solid wood         Coverage est.

3/16" x 5/32"                                        70 to 80 sq. ft/U.S. gal.

1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4"                             30 to 40 sq. ft./U.S. gal.

1/4" x 3/16" x 1/2"                       40 to 45 sq. ft./U.S. gal.

For solid wood aim for 95% glue-to-board coverage, 80" for engineered.

GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1
(1) Determine the starting wall, usually the longest foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark on the floor the width of several rows of boards, (this could be 12”to 24”) include the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Next, use a chalk line to connect the two marks. Follow this chalked line when applying both the adhesive and boards. THE FIRST ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Using an approved trowel and wood flooring adhesive, glue the first few rows in the dry area, between the wall and chalk line.
(4) First row only. Using a table saw remove the tongue part, then place the tongue side towards the wall with groove side facing outwards. Lay flooring into the adhesive following the straight line. Stay off the new hardwood while working.
(5) Progressively lay-in the next boards by engaging the tongue and groove then drop board into adhesive. Avoid dragging or sliding boards together as this can trap or squeeze glue up in between the boards creating gaps. Continue working 4 or 5 rows together, then measure and cut the last boards as needed to complete the rows.
(6) The balance of a board cut is used to start a new row, discard lengths under 6”. Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger the ends of the boards correctly. Smaller boards should be intermixed throughout the installed floor. A tapping block can be used to gently tap the boards into proper position. During installation, end gaps between boards can be minimized by temporarily locking a completed row in place by using spacers placed between the wall and the last board of each row, remove when glue has dried.
(7) Repeat the process. Chalk new lines, spread adhesive and continue working 4 or 5 rows together until completed.

INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Step 2:
•Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be trimmed so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. It should be glued and wedged into place. Leave all spacers in the expansion space until the adhesive has cured, then remove. Keep the floor free from foot traffic, until adhesive has cured.
• Do not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the subfloor.
• Occasionally lift a board and check for adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
• When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening and difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper ventilation within the room should be provided. Follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.

Post-installation
• After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and foot traffic.

• For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.

MOLDINGS & TRANSITIONS:
Installation Tips: acclimate wood moldings for best results
• Moldings should be predrilled to avoid splitting when nailing
•The tool of choice for cutting hardwood moldings is a 10” or 12” motorized miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5°, 45°, and 90°.
• A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts. Be sure the saw blade rotation is positioned to cut into the finished face.
•When installing wall base molding, place the bottom nail below the finished line of the quarter round.
• Attach wall base or quarter round moldings to the wall, never into the floor.
• Miter cuts hide better than square cuts.

1) Base Board – for hiding imperfections and adding a custom finish along any wall.
2) Quarter-Round - for covering the expansion left at walls and other fixed surfaces.
3&6) Reducer Moldings - used to transition to lower floors.
4) Stair Nosing - for finishing the exposed edges of stairs and landings.
5) T-Expansion - for joining two areas of flooring of similar heights.
7) End Cap - for finishing the space at sliding glass doors, at bath tubs or transitioning to carpet.

 

HARDWOOD REPAIRS
•Minor scratch or dent damage can be repaired with a touch-up or filler kit available at most home centers. Major damage may require individual board replacements and is best  accomplished by professional flooring installers.

SEASONAL CHANGES - What to Expect (all installation methods)
Seasonal gapping should be expected in all wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure.
It is normal that wood floors will be affected by fluctuating levels of humidity within the building. Care should be taken to control humidity levels to within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, note recommendations below:
• (Dry) Heating Season - A humidifier may be needed to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves, radiant floor heat and electric heat will create dryer conditions.
• (Humid, Wet) Non-Heating Season - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct expansion joints around the perimeter of your floor.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS
General Precautions and Recommendations - Always use moisture barriers.
Engineered wood flooring is the flooring of choice for radiant heat. However, when using solid wood make certain the product selected is recommended. Choose species highest in stability ratings for this application. Australian Cypress, Mesquite, Bamboo, and Teaks are good species choices. Brazilian Cherry is not recommended. Because of the wide array of systems on the market, each with its own features, please consult with your radiant flooring provider for recommended installation methods. Hydronic systems must include in-floor temperature sensors and an outdoor thermostat that allows the system to adjust the water temperature according to anticipated heat loss. Radiant heat contributes to the drying out of all woods. Use of a humidification system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level. The indoor relative humidity must be maintained between 35-55% year round. Failure to do so can result in edge cupping, squeaking delamination, splintering, or face checking. Avoid shock to the floor, Before installation, run new systems to dissipate hidden or trapped moisture. During installation, reduce thermostat to 65°F. 48 hours after installation, slowly raise the temperature of the heating system to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. The surface temperature of the subfloor must never exceed 85°F in any location. The temperature setting must always remain within 15°F of normal operating level, and should never be turned completely off. Excessive heat, rapid heating, and/or failure to maintain humidity levels between 35% and 55% is likely to result in cracking, cupping, squeaking and other forms of floor issues. Slight surface splits (checking), particularly at the ends of planks, should be expected with installations over radiant heat and does not constitute a product failure.

Test for moisture, This procedure must be followed regardless of the time of year.
Prior to installation over radiant heat, moisture testing must be conducted and documented. The moisture content for concrete substrates must not exceed 3.0 lbs. per 1000 square feet in 24 hrs per ASTM 1669-89 (Calcium Chloride Test). Wood subfloors should not exceed 12% using a pin type meter. Do not install the flooring until excess moisture is corrected.

RADIANT INSTALLATIONS Related information can be found on our website “Flooring 101”
(1) When nailing planks over radiant heat ensure that fasteners are holding the flooring without damage to the radiant system.
(2) When fully gluing planks over radiant heat ensure that the adhesives are recommended for this application.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
1. Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
2. For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, apply mineral spirits on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
3. Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with a recommended hard floor attachment (not a beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
4. Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for urethane finishes.
5. Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, joint-line separation and void the warranty.
6. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
7. Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine, these can generate heat or hot spots.
8. For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.

Protection
1. Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be tracked onto your floor.
2. Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor the flooring finish. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment approved for urethane finishes.
3. Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
4. Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35%-55% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
6. Do not walk on your floor with stiletto heels, shoes with sports cleats or exposed metal parts.
7. Do not allow sharp, pointed, or rough textured objects to be exposed to the hardwood flooring.
8. Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
9. UV sunlight will enhance the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees. Periodically rearranging your area rugs and furniture will allow the floor to antique or age evenly.
10. Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances; but first, put down a piece of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor.
11. A protective mat should be used for furniture or chairs with castors.
12. Use cleaning products safe for urethane finishes; never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
13. Lumber Liquidators does not endorse the use of steam cleaning machines on hard wood products, use at your own risk.
14. Toys and tools can scratch the finishes, scratches and dents are jobsite related, not warrantable.
15. If using the glue-down installation method, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours.

DO NOT INSTALL SOLID HARDWOOD PRODUCTS BELOW- GRADE

HELPFUL TOOL LISTING PER INSTALLATION METHOD
Nail down
■ Appropriate nailer and fasteners ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife ■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule ■ Carpenter’s square
■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
Glue down
■ Manufactures recommended cleaner ■ 100% Urethane moisture barrier and flooring adhesives ■ Correct trowel size ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ 2080 blue painters tape ■ Laminate pull or tapping bar ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife
■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule
■ Carpenter’s square ■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
■ 85-100 lb roller

TO OBTAIN ASSISTANCE WITH FLOORING PRODUCT INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT THE STORE OF ORIGINAL PURCHASE OR CONTACT CUSTOMER CARE AT 800-366-4204. VISIT THE “FLOORING 101” or www.lumberliquidators.com  Download Bellawood solid wood installation instructions 11 17 2010-1 FOR INSTALLATION TIPS AND ADDITIONAL WARRANTY INFORMATION.

CAUTION: WOOD DUST Cut wood flooring outside
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne wood
dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research
on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
Precautionary Measures: equipped power tools with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered; use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eye and skin. First Aid Measures in case of irritation: In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.

CAUTION: USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION

 

For everyday cleaning use a microfiber dust mop to pick up dust, grit, and pet hair off the flooring. You can also use a vacuum that is safe for wood flooring, but stay away from vacuums that have a beater bar. You also want a vacuum with good suction to get up grit they may get into the v-groove or in the cracks between planks. Vacuums that are light weight and have a soft rubber or felt bottom can work great. Periodically use our Bellawood floor cleaner to add a little luster to the flooring, but be sure to dust mop first before using the Bellawood cleaner. The cloth on the bottom of the cleaner should be clean before using for best results. If you have a sticky spill just spot clean with warm water on a lightly damp cloth and immediately buff dry.

Tips for Hardwood Floors for the Cold Weather

Winter is starting to show itself in some place.  We want you to enjoy your hardwood floors in the summer, winter, spring, and fall.  I asked our tech and install team to give us some tips to help you keep your floors looking their best, even when old man winter is at his worst.

• For areas of the country that get lots of snow especially, DO NOT track snow covered shoes or boots onto your hardwood floors.  Use an outside mat and another inside mat to catch the moisture.  Take your shoes off the door and move them to a place off of the hardwood flooring.  In many places where there is a lot of snow, ice-melt (or snow salt) can get stuck in the bottom of shoes and boot and create grit and scratch the wood floors if you aren't careful.  Homes that have a garage, it is best to enter through the garage and leave shoes and boots by the garage door before entering.
• Many people find it helpful to keep rags or mops near the entryway of their home, at the ready for when snow or water clean up is needed.
• Some heating systems can lower the humidity level in your home.  Low humidity levels can cause the wood flooring to contract and create gaps between planks.  Low humidity levels can also create cupping and checks in the wood.  It is key to use a hygrometer to maintain the humidity to the recommended levels written by the floor manufacturers installation instructions.  Hygrometers can be helpful and are inexpensive ($7-$30).
• Not only wood flooring, but fine furniture and plaster walls can suffer from very low indoor humidity.  The goal is to maintain recommended/target humidity levels of 35-55%.  Many HVAC units can be professionally retro fitted with APRIL AIR or similar equipment designed to add moisture back into dry homes.
• Wood burning stoves and fireplaces offer cozy but very dry heat.  You can add needed moisture back into your home simply by putting a kettle full of water on the wood stove, thereby adding moisture back into the dry air. 
• DON'T FORGET TO ACCLIMATE!!!!  Many products are stored in warehouses where the temperatures are less than ideal.  It is up to the customer/installer to correctly acclimate materials to in-home conditions before installation.  The stores are there to store and inventory the materials safely.
• If you plan on installing in the winter, many of our adhesives are moisture cure urethanes which require some air humidity for them to cure.  If the air is very dry due to your heating system, it will take longer for the adhesive to cure.  Most adhesive manufacturers will have a Temperature/Humidity chart in their instructions that will tell you how long it will take the product to cure.
• Nail guns should be allowed to warm up and should be oiled before use.  Using cold nailers can cause the nails to stick or get stuck and could cause internal damage.
• Adhesives should also be brought into the house before installation.  Cold adhesives will not spread very well.  Many adhesive companies require the adhesive to be store at temperatures between 50F and 100F.

Helpful Tips Before Doing a Glue Down Flooring Installation

Bob, our in-house installer (who I will be introducing soon), gave me this helpful guide if you are planning to glue down your floor.  These tips are designed to be a helpful guide but aren't meant to be all inclusive or take the place of your installer.  It's really best to consult with a professional flooring installer for their advice as they can see all the issues with your specific installation.

Flooring Selection- Lumber Liquidators recommends engineered flooring for glue-down application or the more stable species of solid wood.  Select sizes under 3/4" thick. 

Acclimation- Wood and cork flooring will need to acclimate in the installation area.  The room should be conditioned between 65-85 F and 35-55% relative humidity, these levels need to be maintained.  The HVAC system should be function an wet trades complete prior to installation (aka, new cement).  Don't lay your floor until the correction are made.  Poor acclimation can result in excessive board squeaking and gaps and is not manufacturer related.

Concrete Sub-floor- Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60-90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured with a meter specifically designed for concrete moisture measurements.  The moisture vapor measurement must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours using the calcium chloride test.  This is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab.  Calcium chloride test kids are available at most flooring supply distributors.  Moisture testing only determines the presence of moisture at the time of measurement.  Of greater concern is future moisture passing up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.

PRE-INSTALLATION INSPECTION

1. The installer is the final quality inspector.

2. “Racking out” the floor or laying out each piece allows the installer to visually inspect the flooring for imperfections that can be cut out or adjustments made before installing.

 3.  Defective boards if used should be set aside or relocated to hidden places (such as a closet) by the installer.  If a board has an unacceptable defect (hole, split, crack, etc.) the installer should cut it out or set it aside.

4. Generally, a minimum of 5% should be added to the actual square footage needed as an allowance for cutting waste in domestic woods and 8-10% for exotics. Some species like Australian Cypress may have a larger expected “scrap” ratio due to the characteristics of the species.  Replace these boards using the added 5 – 10% of material ordered for the job. If you have a higher than average scrap rate and are unable to complete your installation, take samples to the store nearest you. Bellawood liability is limited to replacement of defective material only in excess of 5% (excluding the cutting allowance).

6. The use of stain, touch-up pen or filler stick for correction during installation is accepted as normal procedure.

7. “Repairs” - Always keep a partial box from your initial installation for any future repairs or board replacement.

8. “Touch-up markers” or color filler sticks used for correcting nicks or chips during and after pre-finished wood installation is a normal procedure.

9. Do not allow adhesives to dry out or skin-over before placing boards.

10. Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers and 100% urethane wood flooring adhesives

11. To ensure glue transfer, glue manufactures recommend rolling the flooring throughout installation using a 100 lb roller

12.  For the best result, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer’s product line.

13.  Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).

14.  During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.

15. Follow glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.

16. Intermix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.

17. Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.

18. Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured (incorrect tape can harm the finish.) During installation tape together 4 or 5 board rows at 18” intervals.

19. Discard twisted or warped boards.

20. [CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment. 

 Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean fresh adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

Moisture Barrier and Underlayments, Don't Leave It Out

When installing hardwood floors, you want to protect your investment whether it's a $0.69 laminate or a $6.69 exotic hardwood.  Moisture is a big concern for flooring, you definitely don't want it!  And we're not just talking about some water spilling or snow being tracked through the house (although, to help with that, we do recommend putting down rugs at home entrances and in front of sinks).  Moisture can come up through your subfloor, especially if you are installing over concrete or below-grade.  A moisture barrier is need to protect the flooring against moisture or moisture vapor.  Along with the moisture barrier, you may want to install an underlayment.  It insulates and cushions the flooring, making it more comfortable to walk on. 

For moisture barriers, there are three basic methods of protection:

• Nail Down Installations - In crawl spaces under the subfloor, 6 mil poly sheeting plastic should be placed over the dirt.  IN addition, a 15 lb felt paper should be placed between the sub-floor and the new hardwood flooring.
• Glue Down Installations - When gluing down wood to concrete, a moisture barrier is almost always needed, especially below-grade.  Usually, a trowel applied product is recommended, such as Bostiks MVP or Mapei's WFM.
• Floating Floor Installations - When installing laminate or other floating floors over cement, VCT, ceramic tiles, or kitchen vinyl, use 6 mil poly sheeting plastic as the moisture barrier.  Omit plastic when covering bare wood subfloors thereby allowing the subfloor to breathe.

Some underlayments have a built in moisture barrier.  These are typically used for floating floor applications.  If you live in a condo, many have association rules regarding noise levels.  Underlayments can really help absorb sound.  As well, they can insulate the floor, leaving it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.  Cork is especially popular for these types of applications. 

One thing to consider when choosing an underlayment is that in this case, too much can be a bad thing.  Installing laminate that already have a pad pre-attached over another underlayment is not recommended.  Too much padding material can actually lead to a weakening of the joints from the underside resulting in the floor seperating.  Our laminate that have a pad pre-attached have been tested for both sound suppression and support of the locking system and are sufficient.  However, for customer wanting extra sound isolation and thermo properties, our cork underlayments are perfect for use under laminates with or without a pre-attached pad.  The Quiet Walk (which has a built in moisture barrier) and Insulayment underlayment would also be appropriate.

Both moisture barriers and underlayments are important parts of your floor.  Make sure you find out what works best with your needs to have the best experience you can with your beautiful new floors!

Choosing the Right Saw Blade For Your Flooring Project

As a general rule, the more teeth on the blade, the smoother the cuts.  However, more teeth always means slower cutting and more load stress on the saw motor.  Fewer teeth means faster cutting speed, a reduction in force required and more chance for wood tear-out or splintering. Here are a few tips in choosing the right saw blade for the job.  Carbide tipped blades are best when cutting laminates and harder exotics. Quality blades can be re-edged or sharpened several times saving money. Blades having expansion slots are designed to greatly reduce heat-warping allowing the metal to cool thereby extending the life of the blade. There are many blade versions, each designed for cutting different materials.

                     
Blades for Laminate Flooring

With laminates, it’s not the hardness of the high density fiber core (HDFC) that causes saw blades to wear down but actually the abrasion and heat from repeated cutting of the aluminum oxide micro-chips applied to the wear-layer. Interestingly the same aluminum oxide is used to make industrial grade sandpaper! In view of this, a thin kerf, 80 to 100 tooth, carbide-tipped blade is most effective for cutting laminates and will last for about 1000 sft before needing to be re-sharpened. 

Blades for Hardwood Flooring

Blade dulling is common with the denser exotics, especially prefinished aluminum oxide coated floorings. Professionals often use paper patterns to trace or transfer special shapes and angles onto the new flooring for cutting.

1. The Plywood Blade is a very popular blade usually made from High-Speed Steel with 100 or more fine teeth.  Recommended for clean cutting paneling, moldings, and engineered flooring. Usually costs between $30-$40.
2. The Combination Blade is usually made up of 80 to 100 teeth.  This versatile blade cuts a variety of materials very quickly and smoothly, with a minimal amount of splintering.  Recommended for cutting laminates, harder exotic hardwood, and precision miter cutting.  Usually costs between $30-$50.
3. The All-Purpose Steel Blade is the most commonly used blade.  These blades can do a little of everything and normally have about 40 teeth, are inexpensive, and tend to warp quicker.  Usually costs between $20-$30.
4. A Cut-Off Blade is recognized by its 60 and 80 spaced teeth and 10 degrees of hook or angle.  The tooth count allows for making quick rough cuts of plywood and 2x4s.  Recommended for fast rough cutting.  Usually costs between $8-$15.

 

Tips to Get the Most From Your Blades

• Carbide blades last 30% longer and can be re-sharpened for about $10
• Dedicate one blade for laminates, another for hardwood
• Old blades can be saved and used to cut through nail heads when removing existing plywood
• Get money back from worn-out blades at your local scrap yard

Blade Anatomy

• Expansion Slots - Laser cuts in saw blade sides designed to dissipate heat when cutting.  Also allows expansion and reduces warping.
• Kerf - Blade thickness
• Gullets - The space cut out from blade plates between the teeth of the saw blade.  The gullets provide room for chips and waste to safely exit the cut.
• High-Speed Steel Blades - Less expensive than Carbide-Tipped, harder than steel blades and stays sharp longer. 
• Carbide-Tipped Blades - More expensive than steel and High-Speed Steel blades, but they stay sharp much longer than steel or High-Speed Steel blades.
• Steel Blades - Basic economy, works well for cutting softwood, dulls quickly.

 

Power Saw Tips

• A 10” table saw will complete about 90% of flooring cuts, “rips or fill-ins” around the walls.
• 10” to 12” miter or chop saw is used for quick straight cuts or mitering
• A Jigsaw fitted with a tine toothed blade is used to cut special shapes (vents, support beams, etc.)

CUT FLOORING OUTSIDE!!!

Blade sparks are common and can ignite a build-up of gas fumes.  Do what the pros do.  Set up a fan next to your saw to blow dust away from your body.  You will be cleaner and safer with each cut.

Floor Medallions, Something Unexpected and Beautiful

You can make a statement in your home with a beautiful piece of art on your walls, a classic piece of furniture, or unique accessories.  You can also make that statement with your flooring.  Our in-house installer, Bob, went to an NWFA Advanced Installation School to learn about custom medallion and border inlays that included brass, aluminum, and granite.  Take a look at some of the pictures, it's really great work!

 

Busy gluing and inserting Walnut into a Heart Pine floor.

Bob is ready to start sanding and finishing their project!

 

The finished work.

 

Detail of a Hickory floor with a medallion, aluminum, and granite.

 

Same medallion, bigger picture.

 

A maple floor with an intricate rhombus design with a border and brass finished medallion.

 

The finished product, it really does make a statement, doesn't it!

 

A hickory floor with a floral medallion, boarder, and brass.

I hope you enjoy, and if you have any questions, make sure you ask Bob all about it!

How to Measure for Hardwood, Bamboo, Cork and Laminate Floorings

Recently, many people have asked how to properly measure their home for flooring.  I talked to Bob, our in-house installer, for his expert advice on how to measure for flooring.  I'm hoping that you find this useful in determining how many square feet you will need.  Remember, if you ever have any further questions, you can always check our Flooring 101 section or contact Bob and his team.

Sample Bed room - measures 13’8”x 15’2”

 

 The basics

When measuring for square footage, the simplest method is to measure a room’s length x width (L x W). Use a tape measure to measure from wall to wall or baseboard to baseboard, ignoring built-in cabinetry. Using this bedroom as an example, if the room measures 13’8″ x 15’2″ round up the measurement to 14′ x 16′. The room area will now be 224 sqft. Measuring for kitchens? Most dishwashers can be pulled out or have adjustable front legs or panels to allow the flooring to be installed underneath about 3-4 inches. Don’t forget the closets!

Many older historic homes have irregular shaped rooms making accurate measurements more difficult. If this is the case simply break-up rooms into more manageable squares or rectangles. Circular and triangular rooms are a little more challenging. Below are examples of how this can be achieved.  

The measurement around a circle is called its circumference. The measurement across a circle through its center is called its diameter. Commonly the Greek letter π pronounced Pi is used to represent the ratio of the circumference of a circle to the diameter, or = 3.14. The measurement from the center to the edge is called its radius; the radius of this circle is 20’. The area of a circle is the number of square units inside this circle - the area is our focus. Follow this equation for the area;

Area = π x R x R

= 3.14 · (20’) · (20’)

= 3.14 · (400’)

Area = 1,256 sqft

The area of a triangle is the number of square units inside that triangle. It is always half the sum of the height and base..        

Triangle area = ^₁/₂ b x h (base 10' x height 20')

(10' x 20') = 200 sqft

¹/₂ of 200 sqft = (100sqft)

Total Triangle sqft area is 100 sqft                                   
    

Transitions and Trim moldings

Just as a new suit needs new shoes, don’t forget the matching trim pieces for your new flooring. We offer transitions and moldings to color-match most flooring. Trim moldings are not only decorative but also functional, hiding perimeter expansion gaps and even speaker wiring! Transitions also offer décor plus safety while moving or transitioning between varying floor heights. When measuring for quarter round or base moldings, measure along the floor at the wall-base the perimeter of a room, this will give you the “linear feet” (Lnft). For example a 12x12 room would measure 12+12+12+12 or about 48’ Lnft of base moldings. When measuring for transitions there are only 4 basic styles, each designed for special purposes; T-molding, reducer, end-caps, and stair nosing. Keep in mind that these basic styles will work for about 95% of most applications, about 5% will need to be modified slightly by the installer to accommodate unique job site considerations.

Waste Factor and Placing the Order

Using the bedroom as an example, if the room measures 13’8″ x 15’2″ round up the measurement to 14′ x 16′. The room area will now be 224 sqft. Add a typical waste percentage for cutting, defects or damages to complete the project. When placing the order, round up to the next full box/container. Waste percentages are related to the selected product, for example; Laminates usually require about 8% extra be added to the square footage totals. Corks, bamboo and most exotic hardwood need about 10-15% extra. Add about 5% extra for domestic hardwoods.                                                                                                                                                                              

It is beneficial to know that some wood species may require additional percentage be added to an order to account for such factors as shading, hardness or brittleness like Australian Cypress. These traits are considered species characteristics not defects. When ordering, don’t forget to keep an extra box of material on hand for future repairs if needed.

Last but certainly not least, it’s worth noting that “special buys”, “close-outs” and “odd-lots” are usually one-of-a-kind deals with no way to order extra product! Make sure to get what’s needed at the time of purchase.