Lumber Liquidators

Recent Customer Projects

We love seeing how awesome our customer's projects have turned out. We're going to show a few off so everyone can see how amazing they look!

 

Bellawood Brazilian Cherry

 

Bellawood Brazilian Walnut

Builder's Pride Red Oak

Glacier Peak Poplar

Horizontal Carbonized Bamboo

Natural Hickory

Vintner's Reserve

Lumber Liquidators Laminate Choices

Have you ever been curious about the differences in laminate that we offer?  Well, here is John telling you about the differences between our Value, Better, and Best laminates.

 

Lumber Liquidator Laminate Categories

Hey everyone, sorry that we've been on a blogging break.  With the holidays, a wedding, and a honeymoon, i haven't been able to give you great information for a couple weeks.

Well, we're back and we have a great video today.  John Jakob is here to tell you about the three categories of laminate that we offer: Value, Better, and Best.

Take a look to learn more information about the different types of laminate that we have for you.

 

 

If you want to know which brands fall in which categories, we have it broken down below so it's easier to determine which brands you'll want to look at.

Value

Utopia - 6 mm, Multi-strip, 10 Year Warranty

Charisma - 7mm, Multi-strip, 20 Year Warrany

Charisma Plus - 8mm, Single Strip, 20 Year Warranty

Better

Nirvana - 8mm, Multi-strip, Pre-attached underlayment, 25 Year Warranty

Nirvana V3 - 8mm, Single-strip, Pre-attached underlayment, 25 Year Warranty

Nirvana Plus - 10mm, Single-strip, Pre-attached underlayment, 25 Year Warranty

Best

Ispiri - 12mm, Single-strip, Pre-attached underlayment. 30 Year Warranty

Kensington Manor - 12mm, Single-strip, Pre-attached underlayment. 30 Year Warranty

St. James Collection - 12mm, Single-strip, Pre-attached underlayment. 30 Year Warranty

Fast Fixes for Foreclosed Homes

Here is an ARA article where we are mentioned and I wanted to pass it along!

The high volume of foreclosed homes on the market is allowing some astute buyers to turn eyesores into eye-catching properties with only minimal investment. While not every property can be fixed up affordably, there are some common projects that dramatically improve a foreclosed home’s appeal and value.

“Many people are finding huge opportunities in fixing up foreclosures,” says Tom Sullivan, founder of Lumber Liquidators, the nation’s largest specialty retailer of hardwood flooring. “Most of these houses can be completely transformed with just a few improvements. Often, the fixes are easy enough to be do-it-yourself projects.”

Below are some popular cost-effective options for breathing new life into a home in need:

Add new countertops. The kitchen is one of the most important rooms in any home, since it is a space where people spend a lot of time—from cooking dinner to entertaining friends. One of the most dramatic changes that can be made to a kitchen is adding new countertops. It alters the appearance of the space by changing the color scheme, depth and texture of the whole room.

Countertops range in price depending on room size, type of material and mode of installation. In an average kitchen, a new laminate countertop starts at around $1,000, with granite or quartz ranging from $3,000 to $6,000. Butcher-block countertops are another attractive, yet cost-effective option. Williamsburg Butcher Block Company offers options in both Maple and American Cherry starting around $310.

Replace the bathtub. Foreclosed houses frequently come with water stains left by standing water in sinks, toilets and bathtubs. Updating a bathroom by installing a new bathtub not only removes the problem, but, because the tub is a core item, it creates a more pleasant feeling in the room. Bathtubs are available in many different styles and sizes, so there is likely to be one that suits any taste, from traditional to contemporary.

Bathtubs start at around $300, depending on the size and type of bathtub.

Trade carpeting for new wood flooring. Foreclosed houses are frequently abandoned with soiled carpet that continues to gather buildup over time. Mold is also common in homes that have been left bare for extended periods. To get rid of hidden odors, allergens, irritants and mold, replace carpet with wood, particularly in high-traffic areas such as living rooms and great rooms.

In addition to reviving these common areas, swapping carpet for wood adds style and creates a more spacious feel. The choice of wood can also make a big difference. Light wood colors can make a room appear larger, medium-toned woods can make a room appear more traditional and dark flooring can make a room appear warmer.

 “The introduction of so many new species, colors and types of wood flooring in recent years gives homeowners a lot of options when renovating a room at different price points,” says Sullivan.

 Laminate flooring can deliver the appearance of solid hardwoods, but costs less than $1 per square foot at places like Lumber Liquidators. This allows budget-DIYers the ability to transform a 400-square-foot area for as little as $750.

 In addition to making a foreclosed home look new again, completing these easy and affordable updates can go a long way in restoring the value of the property when it comes time to sell.

Moisture Barrier and Underlayments, Don't Leave It Out

When installing hardwood floors, you want to protect your investment whether it's a $0.69 laminate or a $6.69 exotic hardwood.  Moisture is a big concern for flooring, you definitely don't want it!  And we're not just talking about some water spilling or snow being tracked through the house (although, to help with that, we do recommend putting down rugs at home entrances and in front of sinks).  Moisture can come up through your subfloor, especially if you are installing over concrete or below-grade.  A moisture barrier is need to protect the flooring against moisture or moisture vapor.  Along with the moisture barrier, you may want to install an underlayment.  It insulates and cushions the flooring, making it more comfortable to walk on. 

For moisture barriers, there are three basic methods of protection:

• Nail Down Installations - In crawl spaces under the subfloor, 6 mil poly sheeting plastic should be placed over the dirt.  IN addition, a 15 lb felt paper should be placed between the sub-floor and the new hardwood flooring.
• Glue Down Installations - When gluing down wood to concrete, a moisture barrier is almost always needed, especially below-grade.  Usually, a trowel applied product is recommended, such as Bostiks MVP or Mapei's WFM.
• Floating Floor Installations - When installing laminate or other floating floors over cement, VCT, ceramic tiles, or kitchen vinyl, use 6 mil poly sheeting plastic as the moisture barrier.  Omit plastic when covering bare wood subfloors thereby allowing the subfloor to breathe.

Some underlayments have a built in moisture barrier.  These are typically used for floating floor applications.  If you live in a condo, many have association rules regarding noise levels.  Underlayments can really help absorb sound.  As well, they can insulate the floor, leaving it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.  Cork is especially popular for these types of applications. 

One thing to consider when choosing an underlayment is that in this case, too much can be a bad thing.  Installing laminate that already have a pad pre-attached over another underlayment is not recommended.  Too much padding material can actually lead to a weakening of the joints from the underside resulting in the floor seperating.  Our laminate that have a pad pre-attached have been tested for both sound suppression and support of the locking system and are sufficient.  However, for customer wanting extra sound isolation and thermo properties, our cork underlayments are perfect for use under laminates with or without a pre-attached pad.  The Quiet Walk (which has a built in moisture barrier) and Insulayment underlayment would also be appropriate.

Both moisture barriers and underlayments are important parts of your floor.  Make sure you find out what works best with your needs to have the best experience you can with your beautiful new floors!

Choosing the Right Saw Blade For Your Flooring Project

As a general rule, the more teeth on the blade, the smoother the cuts.  However, more teeth always means slower cutting and more load stress on the saw motor.  Fewer teeth means faster cutting speed, a reduction in force required and more chance for wood tear-out or splintering. Here are a few tips in choosing the right saw blade for the job.  Carbide tipped blades are best when cutting laminates and harder exotics. Quality blades can be re-edged or sharpened several times saving money. Blades having expansion slots are designed to greatly reduce heat-warping allowing the metal to cool thereby extending the life of the blade. There are many blade versions, each designed for cutting different materials.

                     
Blades for Laminate Flooring

With laminates, it’s not the hardness of the high density fiber core (HDFC) that causes saw blades to wear down but actually the abrasion and heat from repeated cutting of the aluminum oxide micro-chips applied to the wear-layer. Interestingly the same aluminum oxide is used to make industrial grade sandpaper! In view of this, a thin kerf, 80 to 100 tooth, carbide-tipped blade is most effective for cutting laminates and will last for about 1000 sft before needing to be re-sharpened. 

Blades for Hardwood Flooring

Blade dulling is common with the denser exotics, especially prefinished aluminum oxide coated floorings. Professionals often use paper patterns to trace or transfer special shapes and angles onto the new flooring for cutting.

1. The Plywood Blade is a very popular blade usually made from High-Speed Steel with 100 or more fine teeth.  Recommended for clean cutting paneling, moldings, and engineered flooring. Usually costs between $30-$40.
2. The Combination Blade is usually made up of 80 to 100 teeth.  This versatile blade cuts a variety of materials very quickly and smoothly, with a minimal amount of splintering.  Recommended for cutting laminates, harder exotic hardwood, and precision miter cutting.  Usually costs between $30-$50.
3. The All-Purpose Steel Blade is the most commonly used blade.  These blades can do a little of everything and normally have about 40 teeth, are inexpensive, and tend to warp quicker.  Usually costs between $20-$30.
4. A Cut-Off Blade is recognized by its 60 and 80 spaced teeth and 10 degrees of hook or angle.  The tooth count allows for making quick rough cuts of plywood and 2x4s.  Recommended for fast rough cutting.  Usually costs between $8-$15.

 

Tips to Get the Most From Your Blades

• Carbide blades last 30% longer and can be re-sharpened for about $10
• Dedicate one blade for laminates, another for hardwood
• Old blades can be saved and used to cut through nail heads when removing existing plywood
• Get money back from worn-out blades at your local scrap yard

Blade Anatomy

• Expansion Slots - Laser cuts in saw blade sides designed to dissipate heat when cutting.  Also allows expansion and reduces warping.
• Kerf - Blade thickness
• Gullets - The space cut out from blade plates between the teeth of the saw blade.  The gullets provide room for chips and waste to safely exit the cut.
• High-Speed Steel Blades - Less expensive than Carbide-Tipped, harder than steel blades and stays sharp longer. 
• Carbide-Tipped Blades - More expensive than steel and High-Speed Steel blades, but they stay sharp much longer than steel or High-Speed Steel blades.
• Steel Blades - Basic economy, works well for cutting softwood, dulls quickly.

 

Power Saw Tips

• A 10” table saw will complete about 90% of flooring cuts, “rips or fill-ins” around the walls.
• 10” to 12” miter or chop saw is used for quick straight cuts or mitering
• A Jigsaw fitted with a tine toothed blade is used to cut special shapes (vents, support beams, etc.)

CUT FLOORING OUTSIDE!!!

Blade sparks are common and can ignite a build-up of gas fumes.  Do what the pros do.  Set up a fan next to your saw to blow dust away from your body.  You will be cleaner and safer with each cut.

What WOOD You Like to Hear About?

Hello out there in the blog-o-sphere.  This post is for you.  Actually, all of these posts are for you, that's why I'm here!!!  This blog has been around for a few weeks now and I've had a lot of fun deciding on topics and posts.  However, I want to know what YOU want to hear about.  Leave some comments and let me know what you'd like to get out of this blog.  Want to hear about products? Installation techniques? Happenings around the Lumber Liquidators offices?  Customer Interviews?  The recipe for my world famous Texas Sheet Cake (well, it's my aunt's and it's not world famous...yet)?  I really am here for you and I will try to respond to suggestions and incorporate them into the blog over time.  And please be nice, we do moderate the comments that come in so don't put anything that is spam, profane, or nonconstructive. 

And in case you love the blog the way it is, here are some fun sites that I love that you may enjoy too!

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ (<--You knew this would be at the top of the list!)

http://www.hgtv.com/

http://www.diynetwork.com/

http://www.foodnetwork.com/ 

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/  (My dad watched this show when I was a kid and I find myself watching too!)

How To Install Dream Home Laminate Flooring

Many of our customers are the DIY type.  Hopefully this guide will help you with installing your new Dream Home flooring.  This can also be found in our Flooring 101 section for an easy-to-print document.

Before you get started, make sure you have carefully prepared your floor (concrete, wood, sheet & tile flooring, carpeting, or radiant heat) properly for smooth installation and that the subfloor requirements have been met.

PRECAUTIONS, STORAGE & HANDLING, ROOM PREPARATION

• DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring must be stored flat, horizontally and stacked no more than four cartons high at all times. Improper storage can result in warping and difficult assembly. Protect carton corners from damage.
• Storage area and job site should be climate-controlled with ideal temperatures of 65°F-75°F, humidity under 75%.
• Do not store directly on cement, allow for air circulation. Protect from rain, moisture.
• Laminates with pre-attached padding do not need additional underlayment. If building associations require extra sound isolation, the use of heavier type underlayments such as cork, Quiet Walk or Insulayment is recommended to support the locking system.
• For rooms larger than 27’ in any direction, the use of center T-moldings is required to allow for the normal movement or seasonal expansion of the entire installed floor.
• Install under moldings and doorway transition moldings. New molding must be of sufficient size to cover the expansion area around the perimeter of the floor.
• Leave at least ½” between the surface of the flooring and the bottom of electric baseboard heaters to allow heat to circulate.
• Do not fit this floor tight against any fixed, vertical objects (ex. walls, pipes, passageways, staircases). A minimum of ¼” to ½” expansion space is required around the perimeter of the room as well as any fixed objects. Provide ½” expansion for ½” thick flooring. All floating floors require fixed cabinets to be installed first before installing planks.
• Undercut door moldings and casings to allow the flooring to fit underneath without restriction. Use a scrap piece of laminate and foam underlayment as a spacer guide.
• After installation, it may be necessary to trim the bottom of doors to allow for new floor height.
• A moisture barrier, 6mm-8mm polyethylene sheet plastic must be installed completely over tiles, kitchen vinyl or concrete prior to installation. Overlap the plastic 6 inches and tape the entire length of the seam with duct tape.
• For best shade appearance, install planks from several boxes. Keep an extra box of materials for repairs.
• Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side of the plank.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Undercut Saw, Table Saw, Miter Saw, Circular Saw, Jig Saw, 1/4" or 1/2” Spacers, hammer, tapping block, tape Measure, T-square, PVA laminate glue as needed, tape, safety glasses, broom/vacuum, underlayment, 6mm-8mm Polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier over concrete (Do not use plastic over bare wood subfloors).

GETTING STARTED
1. Inspect all planks for visible defects and damage before and during installation. Do not install damaged planks. During installation, inspect the groove area for any debris that may prevent proper assembly of planks. DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring will not accept responsibility for claims on flooring installed with obvious defects.
2. Determine in which direction the planks will be installed. To make the room appear larger or if installing in very small rooms or hallways, it is preferable to lay the planks parallel to the longest room dimension.
3. End-joint “shadow” can be minimized, avoid running board direction into the primary light source.
4. Carefully measure the room to determine squareness and the width of the first and last row of planks. If the width of the last row of planks is less than 2” excluding the tongue, adjust the width of first plank row accordingly.

         3.                                 4.

WHEN INSTALLING PLANKS

1. The tongue side of the plank should face the starting wall. To get the laminate row closer to the wall you may remove the tongue from the starting row of planks only. Begin laying planks on the left side corner of the starting wall and work to the right side. When cutting planks, make sure the teeth of the power saw blade is cutting into the decorative surface. Best results are achieved when using a thin carbide tipped cutting blade.

2. Example of incorrect board placement.      

  1.                               2.

3. Example of board placement sequence during Layout. Note how board #6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between #6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not over-tap.   

4. Adding additional spacers to the (beginning and ending rows) will help hold installed planks together during installation. Remove spacers when finished.

                                                                         

5. If the starting or ending wall is irregular, scribe or trace the contour of the wall to the row of boards.

STARTING THE FIRST ROW

1. Start by placing/tapping spacers against the wall at the short and long side of each plank and at a seam where two planks join. Double this spacing for larger room areas over 20’ in any direction.

2. Complete the first row progressively locking the shorter ends of the planks.

1.  2.

3. The last plank in any row will need to be cut. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface. of the last full plank, make sure to allow for the spacer. If this measurement is less than 12”, the length of first plank in the row should be adjusted. This will allow for a longer plank at the end of the row. The first and last plank in each row should be at least 12” in length. Boards used under the recommended 12” should also be edge-glued.

4. Fill-in planks can be cut with a jig saw, power saw, or hand saw. TIP: Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side of the plank.  

    3. 4.

5. Ideally, the remaining pieces cut off from planks may serve as the starter or first plank in the next row.

6. Stagger new end-joints from previously installed rows a minimum of 6”-12” to avoid seam line-up.  

5.   6.

7. The last board of each row, under cabinets or other difficult areas can be tapped-in using a tapping bar. 

                                                                                                                                                                         7.

8. SECOND AND CONSECUTIVE ROWS
a. Position the first plank of the second row with the short end-side against a wall spacer. Next engage the long tongue side into the groove planks of the first row at approximately a 45º angle until planks fit together.

b. Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint closes, locks or clicks.                                                     

a.                b.

9. PROGRESSIVELY INSTALLING INDIVIDUAL BOARDS
a. Place another board, following the above directions Insert the long tongue side into the groove side at approximately a 45º angle until planks lock together.
b. Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint clicks/closes.

c. Using a tapping block, gently tap to close any gaps between boards - repeat procedure until completed Note how board #6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between #6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not over-tap, repeat process until finished.                                                                                                                                

c.

10. Last rows. Measure and cut to sufficient width to allow for the recommended expansion gap. Use a table saw to rip planks to the appropriate width. Planks less than 3” would also need to be glued at the edges.     

                                                                                                                                              

11. For rooms wider or longer than 27’, the use of DREAM HOME T-Molding is required to account for the normal movement of the floor. When possible, T-Moldings should be utilized in areas such as doorways, archways, etc.            

                                                                                                         

12. In areas where it is difficult to angle the planks up into position, such as around/under door moldings or jams, kitchen cabinetry or older type heat registers, it is necessary to remove the lip or locking system from the groove edge of the planks you are fitting to. This is done by lightly scraping or planning off the lip only on the groove side of the plank. This will allow you to install the plank laying it flat. After the lip has been trimmed on the planks you are fitting to, lay the plank flat on the floor. Apply a thin bead of PVA laminate glue on top of the tongue and push the planks into position. Immediately wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth.

Removing the Lip or Locking System

FINISHING THE INSTALLATION / FLOOR CARE

• Remove spacers from perimeter of room.
• Install transition moldings. Do not fasten transitions through the laminate flooring.
• Install quarter round or baseboard molding. Molding must be sufficient size to cover the ¼” or ½” expansion space. Do not fasten moldings through the laminate flooring. Fasten into the wall.
• Use plywood when moving furniture or appliances into position to protect the flooring.
• Use coasters or proper floor protectors under the legs of furniture.
• DREAM HOME Laminate Flooring can be maintained by using a dry swiffer mop or cleaned with laminate floor cleaners. Do not flood mop floor. Do not use abrasive cleaners.
• Chipping edges, dents and Scratches are site related, not warrantable.

I hope these instructions help you with your installation project.  Remember, if you have any further questions, check out the Flooring 101 section on the Lumber Liquidators website for more installation and maintenance tips.