To help you with your installation project, I asked the Tech & Install team to provide me with instructions for installing your new Bellawood prefinished floor if you choose to tackle the project yourself.
For a print out version and approved installation methods, please download the attachment that is part of this post.
PRODUCT USEAGE
Bellawood® solid prefinished domestic and exotic products are installed using standard hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. While Professional installers have preferences, both types work well. Installers also understand how species variations will affect workability. Some species tend to be very hard, others somewhat brittle during nailing. These natural characteristic are not considered defects. To prevent board damage, nailing methods such as hand nailing may be required when installing the harder species like Rose wood, Walnut or Teaks. See our nailing recommendations.
The Bellawood® solid lower profile flooring sizes (1/2”- 5/16”) is installed using specially designed pneumatic hardwood floor staplers or cleat nailers. Ensure that you are using the correct sized fasteners and adaptors. These sizes can also be glued to plywood or with an approved moisture barrier can be glued on concrete. DO NOT nail or glue solid products below-grade.
Bellawood® can also be installed over in-floor radiant heat, however not all species are recommended for this application. Choose species with higher stability ratings and always use moisture barriers, details are outlined in this document. Installations outside these guidelines are viewed as experimental.
OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITIES - Install flooring in proper lighting
Exotic and domestic hardwoods are beautiful and unique products of nature characterized by distinctive variations in grain pattern and color. These natural variations are not flaws; rather they make up the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring and should be expected. Only topically stained products will have the most uniformity in color or shade. Our floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%, of a manufacturing or natural type. When flooring is ordered, depending on layout or species, 8 - 12% extra material should be added to the actual square footage needed for board selection and cutting. Diagonal layouts or custom installations usually require about 15% more. During installation any boards deemed unacceptable should be replaced using the extra material ordered. The use of putty, stains, filler sticks or touch up markers to correct defects in prefinished wood during installation is accepted as a normal procedure. Board width variances are considered normal for boards and all organic materials. To minimize board edge gapping, board widths greater than 1/16” should be selected out and used all together in the same row or placed in closets or near walls. The customer/installer assumes responsibility for final inspection of product quality. Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installing. Use reasonable selectivity and judgment, select out or cut off pieces with glaring defects. If more than 5% of the material is unusable contact your local store or call CUSTOMER CARE 800-366-4204 immediately. Before beginning the installation the installer must determine if job site and subfloor conditions are acceptable. Installers must be up-to-date with installation procedures.
Lumber Liquidators denies any responsibility for problems arising from job site failures, environmental or moisture issues, inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors, poor installations and improper tool usage.
JOB SITE INSPECTION
For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.
ACCLIMATION/CONDITIONING THE FLOORING
Wood products are affected by environmental conditions. Before installation, acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed 10-14 days for most dense exotic species or 2 – 7 days for domestic (North American) species to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and constant indoor humidity levels of 35% - 55%. Very dry or humid regions may require extended conditioning. Proper acclimation levels maintained after installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper acclimation is the responsibility of purchaser/installer.
HANDLE WITH CARE
To prevent board warping or bowing; do not cut the packaging plastic support bindings until ready to install. Do not stand flooring on ends or sides. Do not store directly on bare concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed as close to the center of the installation area as possible. Store flat, supporting the ends and center sections. Store in a dry place being sure to provide air flow under and around cartons. Keep out of direct sunlight and away from air vents.
VENTILATED CRAWL SPACES
To prevent moisture build-up homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation. Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape.
Delay installation until the above guidelines are completed.
MOISTURE
[CAUTION] Lumber Liquidators recommends the use of moisture barriers. Most installation failures result from a moisture imbalance. All subfloors must be tested for moisture content. Know your moisture levels and document the readings. Do not deliver flooring to the jobsite until moisture problems are corrected.
Wood subfloors: Determine if conditions are dry before installing. Wood subfloor moisture reading must not exceed 12%; the ideal moisture content within new wood flooring is 6%-9%. The differential balance between new boards and subfloor must not exceed 4% or 2% for board widths over 2 1/4”. If moisture readings are too high, postpone the installation, find the moisture source and correct. Raise heat and increase ventilation, holding off installation until proper conditions are met. Do not use pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.
Concrete subfloor: Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60 to 90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured. Moisture testing establishes the presence of moisture at the time of measurement. Of greater concern is future moisture transferring up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.
CEMENT MOISTURE TESTING PROCEDURES
Calcium chloride test is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab. The emission of moisture through the slab must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours. Calcium chloride test kits are available at most flooring supply distributors.
Phenolphthalein tests may also be performed by using a 3% phenolphthalein solution in water-free alcohol. Drill dime-sized holes, ¼" deep, in various areas of the concrete slab, particularly around the walls. Then apply two drops of the solution into each of the drilled holes. If there is no color change in the solution, then there is not enough moisture to affect the installation. If the solution turns pink or dark red within five minutes, further testing must be done with a moisture Encounter meter or calcium chloride test kit.
A simple “condensation test” may be performed by taping 18"x18" polyethylene sheets in several locations on the concrete slab. Lamps are then placed close enough to warm these areas and allowed to remain in place for 48 hours. Moisture under the plastic sheets or darkening of the concrete surface under the sheets is an indication of moisture in the concrete.
Alkalinity test recommended for gluedowns. Alkali can be visible as a white powder on the surface of the concrete. Alkali is excess salt contained within the concrete that can cause adhesive failure over time. This problem is magnified if moisture is present and passing through the concrete depositing excess salt on the concrete surface. A simple pH test will determine the presence of alkali on a slab surface; Apply a few drops of distilled water to a small thoroughly clean and scraped concrete surface area and place a strip of pH paper to the wetted area. The paper will change color within 5 minutes. Compare the color change to the chart standard supplied with the paper to indicate the pH of degree of alkalinity. A pH range from 5 to 10 is acceptable. Corrective measures must be taken with any concrete slab that measures a pH reading above 10. Contact adhesive manufacturer for corrective instructions.
Wood floor owner and installer are solely and jointly responsible for site conditions, pre-installation moisture checking of new floor and subfloor and must ensure that all conditions and specifications listed in this guide have been thoroughly met prior to installation.
SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Do not install flooring directly over joist without subflooring.
All structural panels/underlayment must be installed sealed-side down, and provide ¾” perimeter spacing. Square-edged or non tongue and grooved panels used as a subfloor will require a minimum 1/8˝ (3 mm) expansion space between all plywood seams.
Panels must meet minimum CDX grade Exposure 1 and US Voluntary Product Standard PS1-95, PS2-04 or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92 for construction sheathing. Check underside of panel for codes. Minimum of 3/8˝panel thickness is recommended when used as an underlayment.
Note that joist spacing determines minimum subfloor thickness.
• Joist spacing 16” on center (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (5/8˝) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”) Advantech Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing 16” up to 19.2” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing over 19.2”up to maximum 24” (oc)
Plywood: Minimum of (7/8”) Oriented Strand Board (osb): Minimum of (1”)
• Particleboard or Masonite: is not recommended, remove or cover with 3/8” plywood.
•Avoid pressure treated plywood for interior use as these can have high moisture content and latent with rot resistant chemicals.
Flat wood subfloors
• The final surface must be flat to within 3/16" in a 6' radius, or within ¼” in 10’. Subfloor must be securely nailed or screwed down to joists to prevent movement or squeaks. Install over 16” center-to-center joist sub-structure. Thoroughly inspect and replace existing floor or subfloor that shows evidence of water damage or structural weakness. Check for and repair any sagging or loose sections of a wood subfloor. Squeaky or loose boards should be re-nailed. An uneven or cupped wood subfloor is an indication of excess moisture, identify and correct. High spots may be planed or sanded down. Low spots should be cut out and repaired or may be filled with old pieces of firm vinyl or build up with 30 lb. black roofing paper. Do not fill low areas under naildown flooring with cement patches as these will break down over time.
Flat concrete
• A flat cement surface is very important when gluing down ridged solid wood. The final surface must be flat to within 1/8" in a 6' radius, or within 3/16” in 10’. Sand or grind down high spots. Fill valleys or low areas with cement based leveling compounds compatible with the flooring adhesives. Allow extra drying time for the leveling compounds. Do not install on new concrete less than 60-90 days old.
GENERAL INFORMATION (all installations)
• Customers are advised to be home during the installation for consultation.
• Customer and installer should discuss installation and layout to maximize satisfaction.
• Inspect flooring during installation.
• Maintain proper perimeter expansion gap.
• Trim bottom of the door frame with handsaw to insert boards underneath.
• Avoid board grouping. Board sizes should be intermingled.
• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color, shade and appearance.
• Save a box of flooring for use in future repairs.
• After installation, do not fully cover the new installation with plastic or paper. Moisture or board discoloration issues may result.
• Because jobsite conditions can be dry today and wet tomorrow the use of moisture barriers are recommended.
Board placements (all installation methods)
Incorrect
(Fig 1) Avoid board-end "line-up" (Fig 2) Avoid "H" Joints
Typically, board stagger is three times a board’s width. Proper board placement provides greater floor strength and better overall appearance of the floor.
(¾”) SOLID WOOD FASTENER SELECTION refer to [EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS] CLEAT NAILER (examples) 16 gage
Power Nailer 445 (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-323-1653
Bostich MIIFN (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1 ½”- 2” long 800-556-6696
Cleats
STAPLER (examples) 15 gage
Bostich MIIIFS (Pneumatic) staples 1/2” wide 1 ½”- 2” long
Powernail 445FS (Pneumatic) 1/2” wide 1 ½”- 2” long
Staples
(5/16” to 5/8”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required
CLEAT NAILER (example) 18-20 gage cleats
Powernail Model 200p/250m/50p/50m (Pneumatic) Cleat nails 1”- 1 ½ ” long
(3/8”- 5/16”) LOWER PROFILE
Special nailers, shims or shoe accessories are usually required
STAPLER (examples) 18-20 gage Staples
Bostich LHF97125-2-20 (Pneumatic) staples 1”- 1 ¼” long 800-556-6696
SPOTNAILS WS4840W2 (Pneumatic) 1”- 1 ¼” long 800-323-1653
SENCO SLS20HF (Pneumatic) 1” 800-543-4596
PORTA-NAIL 475 (Pneumatic) 1” 800-634-9281
Important: Set air compressor to 70-80 PSI. Test and adjust air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. Make sure that the fastening machine is fully adjustable, is in good working condition, is at the appropriate angle and seats properly against the tongue of the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.
[EXOTIC WOOD NAILING TIPS]:
NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Starting point, first three rows. When installing over crawl spaces or rooms over basements use 15 lb. black roofing paper to provide some protection against moisture vapors, butt seam edges together. Red rosin paper may be used where there are no moisture issues. Install the flooring perpendicular to the floor joist. Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.
(1) Determine the starting wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark the floor the width of the floor plus the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Snap on the floor a chalk line connecting the two floor marks. While maintaining the expansion space, place the groove side along the starting wall and align the tongue side of the first row of boards on the chalk line. THE FIRST THREE ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Pre-drill and top nail the first row of boards only. Hand nail the following rows until nailing machines can be used.
(4) Next, rack-out or lay-out the floor for best visual appearance and adjust before nailing the floor.
[CAUTION]: When top nailing pre-finished wood it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail. Although pneumatic nailers are faster they easily damage the wood surface and finishes. Ensure that the nailer is not damaging the pre-finished wood.
COMPLETING THE FLOOR
• During installation, work several rows at a time, REFER to nailing schedule below. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 4”to 6˝ when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance. Top-nail the first and last rows where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or finish nailer.
• Rip or cut final row to fit and top-nail. If the final row is less than 1˝ in width it should first be edge-glued to the last UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one board.
Fastener spacing recommendations are based on board size; per (NWFA)
GLUE DOWN OVERVIEW
[TIPS]:
• Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers
• Wood floor adhesives alone are not moisture barriers.
•Glue manufacture may recommend rolling the floor throughout installation to ensure glue transfer
• For the best results, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer
• Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).
• During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.
• Discard twisted or warped boards.
•Follow the glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.
• Mix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.
•Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.
•Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured. Tape together 4 or 5 rows at 18” intervals. (Incorrect tape can harm the finish.)
[CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be advised that over-strapping wood could adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards or out-of-square floor board alignment.
ADHESIVES
Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean wet adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
Manufacturer
Mapei 800-992-6273 Bostiks 800-523-6530
WFM a moisture barrier MVP a moisture barrier
Ultrabond 980, 990 solid wood adhesives BBA a solid wood adhesive
Eco 995 An all-in-one adhesive and moisture barrier Vapor-Lock An all-in-one adhesive and moisture barrier
TYPICAL TROWELS AND APPROXIMATE COVERAGES*
Examples shown are for estimating purposes only. Have several trowel sizes on hand as actual jobsite coverage will vary.
For moisture barriers and 5/16” to 3/8” solid wood Coverage est.
3/16" x 5/32" 70 to 80 sq. ft/U.S. gal.
1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" 30 to 40 sq. ft./U.S. gal.
1/4" x 3/16" x 1/2" 40 to 45 sq. ft./U.S. gal.
For solid wood aim for 95% glue-to-board coverage, 80" for engineered.
GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1
(1) Determine the starting wall, usually the longest foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out and mark on the floor the width of several rows of boards, (this could be 12”to 24”) include the expansion gap. The Expansion gap is normally the same as the thickness of the new flooring, for example, 1/2” flooring will require 1/2” expansion.
(2) Next, use a chalk line to connect the two marks. Follow this chalked line when applying both the adhesive and boards. THE FIRST ROWS MUST BE STRAIGHT.
(3) Using an approved trowel and wood flooring adhesive, glue the first few rows in the dry area, between the wall and chalk line.
(4) First row only. Using a table saw remove the tongue part, then place the tongue side towards the wall with groove side facing outwards. Lay flooring into the adhesive following the straight line. Stay off the new hardwood while working.
(5) Progressively lay-in the next boards by engaging the tongue and groove then drop board into adhesive. Avoid dragging or sliding boards together as this can trap or squeeze glue up in between the boards creating gaps. Continue working 4 or 5 rows together, then measure and cut the last boards as needed to complete the rows.
(6) The balance of a board cut is used to start a new row, discard lengths under 6”. Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger the ends of the boards correctly. Smaller boards should be intermixed throughout the installed floor. A tapping block can be used to gently tap the boards into proper position. During installation, end gaps between boards can be minimized by temporarily locking a completed row in place by using spacers placed between the wall and the last board of each row, remove when glue has dried.
(7) Repeat the process. Chalk new lines, spread adhesive and continue working 4 or 5 rows together until completed.
INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Step 2:
•Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be trimmed so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. It should be glued and wedged into place. Leave all spacers in the expansion space until the adhesive has cured, then remove. Keep the floor free from foot traffic, until adhesive has cured.
• Do not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the subfloor.
• Occasionally lift a board and check for adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
• When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening and difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper ventilation within the room should be provided. Follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.
Post-installation
• After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and foot traffic.
• For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.
MOLDINGS & TRANSITIONS:
Installation Tips: acclimate wood moldings for best results
• Moldings should be predrilled to avoid splitting when nailing
•The tool of choice for cutting hardwood moldings is a 10” or 12” motorized miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5°, 45°, and 90°.
• A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts. Be sure the saw blade rotation is positioned to cut into the finished face.
•When installing wall base molding, place the bottom nail below the finished line of the quarter round.
• Attach wall base or quarter round moldings to the wall, never into the floor.
• Miter cuts hide better than square cuts.
1) Base Board – for hiding imperfections and adding a custom finish along any wall.
2) Quarter-Round - for covering the expansion left at walls and other fixed surfaces.
3&6) Reducer Moldings - used to transition to lower floors.
4) Stair Nosing - for finishing the exposed edges of stairs and landings.
5) T-Expansion - for joining two areas of flooring of similar heights.
7) End Cap - for finishing the space at sliding glass doors, at bath tubs or transitioning to carpet.
HARDWOOD REPAIRS
•Minor scratch or dent damage can be repaired with a touch-up or filler kit available at most home centers. Major damage may require individual board replacements and is best accomplished by professional flooring installers.
SEASONAL CHANGES - What to Expect (all installation methods)
Seasonal gapping should be expected in all wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure.
It is normal that wood floors will be affected by fluctuating levels of humidity within the building. Care should be taken to control humidity levels to within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, note recommendations below:
• (Dry) Heating Season - A humidifier may be needed to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves, radiant floor heat and electric heat will create dryer conditions.
• (Humid, Wet) Non-Heating Season - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct expansion joints around the perimeter of your floor.
RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS
General Precautions and Recommendations - Always use moisture barriers.
Engineered wood flooring is the flooring of choice for radiant heat. However, when using solid wood make certain the product selected is recommended. Choose species highest in stability ratings for this application. Australian Cypress, Mesquite, Bamboo, and Teaks are good species choices. Brazilian Cherry is not recommended. Because of the wide array of systems on the market, each with its own features, please consult with your radiant flooring provider for recommended installation methods. Hydronic systems must include in-floor temperature sensors and an outdoor thermostat that allows the system to adjust the water temperature according to anticipated heat loss. Radiant heat contributes to the drying out of all woods. Use of a humidification system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level. The indoor relative humidity must be maintained between 35-55% year round. Failure to do so can result in edge cupping, squeaking delamination, splintering, or face checking. Avoid shock to the floor, Before installation, run new systems to dissipate hidden or trapped moisture. During installation, reduce thermostat to 65°F. 48 hours after installation, slowly raise the temperature of the heating system to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. The surface temperature of the subfloor must never exceed 85°F in any location. The temperature setting must always remain within 15°F of normal operating level, and should never be turned completely off. Excessive heat, rapid heating, and/or failure to maintain humidity levels between 35% and 55% is likely to result in cracking, cupping, squeaking and other forms of floor issues. Slight surface splits (checking), particularly at the ends of planks, should be expected with installations over radiant heat and does not constitute a product failure.
Test for moisture, This procedure must be followed regardless of the time of year.
Prior to installation over radiant heat, moisture testing must be conducted and documented. The moisture content for concrete substrates must not exceed 3.0 lbs. per 1000 square feet in 24 hrs per ASTM 1669-89 (Calcium Chloride Test). Wood subfloors should not exceed 12% using a pin type meter. Do not install the flooring until excess moisture is corrected.
RADIANT INSTALLATIONS Related information can be found on our website “Flooring 101”
(1) When nailing planks over radiant heat ensure that fasteners are holding the flooring without damage to the radiant system.
(2) When fully gluing planks over radiant heat ensure that the adhesives are recommended for this application.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
1. Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
2. For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, apply mineral spirits on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
3. Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with a recommended hard floor attachment (not a beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
4. Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for urethane finishes.
5. Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, joint-line separation and void the warranty.
6. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
7. Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine, these can generate heat or hot spots.
8. For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.
Protection
1. Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be tracked onto your floor.
2. Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor the flooring finish. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment approved for urethane finishes.
3. Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
4. Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35%-55% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
6. Do not walk on your floor with stiletto heels, shoes with sports cleats or exposed metal parts.
7. Do not allow sharp, pointed, or rough textured objects to be exposed to the hardwood flooring.
8. Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
9. UV sunlight will enhance the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees. Periodically rearranging your area rugs and furniture will allow the floor to antique or age evenly.
10. Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances; but first, put down a piece of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor.
11. A protective mat should be used for furniture or chairs with castors.
12. Use cleaning products safe for urethane finishes; never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
13. Lumber Liquidators does not endorse the use of steam cleaning machines on hard wood products, use at your own risk.
14. Toys and tools can scratch the finishes, scratches and dents are jobsite related, not warrantable.
15. If using the glue-down installation method, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours.
DO NOT INSTALL SOLID HARDWOOD PRODUCTS BELOW- GRADE
HELPFUL TOOL LISTING PER INSTALLATION METHOD
Nail down
■ Appropriate nailer and fasteners ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife ■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule ■ Carpenter’s square
■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
Glue down
■ Manufactures recommended cleaner ■ 100% Urethane moisture barrier and flooring adhesives ■ Correct trowel size ■ Expansion spacers ■ Moisture meter ■ 2080 blue painters tape ■ Laminate pull or tapping bar ■ Tapping block ■ Hand tools, Utility knife
■ Hammer ■ Pencil ■ Under-cut jam saw ■ Hand saw ■ Circular, miter and jig saw (carbide blade) ■ Tape measure or folding rule
■ Carpenter’s square ■ Drill ■ Chalk line ■ Calculator ■ Blue masking tape ■ Safety glasses ■ Silicone caulk ■ Transition moldings
■ 85-100 lb roller
TO OBTAIN ASSISTANCE WITH FLOORING PRODUCT INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT THE STORE OF ORIGINAL PURCHASE OR CONTACT CUSTOMER CARE AT 800-366-4204. VISIT THE “FLOORING 101” or www.lumberliquidators.com Download Bellawood solid wood installation instructions 11 17 2010-1 FOR INSTALLATION TIPS AND ADDITIONAL WARRANTY INFORMATION.
CAUTION: WOOD DUST Cut wood flooring outside
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne wood
dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research
on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
Precautionary Measures: equipped power tools with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered; use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eye and skin. First Aid Measures in case of irritation: In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.
CAUTION: USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION
For everyday cleaning use a microfiber dust mop to pick up dust, grit, and pet hair off the flooring. You can also use a vacuum that is safe for wood flooring, but stay away from vacuums that have a beater bar. You also want a vacuum with good suction to get up grit they may get into the v-groove or in the cracks between planks. Vacuums that are light weight and have a soft rubber or felt bottom can work great. Periodically use our Bellawood floor cleaner to add a little luster to the flooring, but be sure to dust mop first before using the Bellawood cleaner. The cloth on the bottom of the cleaner should be clean before using for best results. If you have a sticky spill just spot clean with warm water on a lightly damp cloth and immediately buff dry.
I will be honest, when I first started at Lumber Liquidators, I had no idea what an engineered floor was. At first I thought it was a laminate, but it's not! The two are very different. I will discuss laminates another day, but today, we'll concentrate on engineered flooring.
Engineered hardwood is constructed with layers of hardwood veneer, glued and heat pressed together to create a product that can range in thickness from 5/16" up to 9/16", having 3 to 8 plys or layers. The top veneer can ranging in thickness up to 1/4", depending on the manufacturer. But it is REAL HARDWOOD. In order to create an engineered hardwood, these plys or layers are stocked on top of each other with each layer or grain of the wood facing perpendicular to each other.
Once the desired thickness is achieve, the boards are then cut into the correct board width. From there, the boards are then manufactured to have a tongue or groove on the edges. The final step is to add stain and finish. By design, engineered hardwood becomes less susceptible to the effects of moisture and temperature fluctuations. Therefore, engineered hardwood is referred to as being dimensionally stable. Solid hardwood is not as efficient in dimensional stability because the grain throughout the board runs in only one direction. The positive stability of engineered hardwood allows it to be glued directly to concrete, above or below grade, and is also perfect for radiant heat applications.
Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.
A moisture barriers over concrete is always recommended. Some styles of engineered flooring can be stapled down, nailed down, glued to cement, or floated.
We offer several brands of engineered hardwood as well as a few unique options including handscraped, exotic woods, and Quick Clic. If you want hardwood but just aren't sure it's right, check out engineered flooring. It may be the answer you've been looking for.
Bellawood Brazilian Cherry is one of our most popular flooring options. And for good reason. Not only is it beautiful, but it also durable. It can make any space look elegant. I actually have it in my home! And it's beautiful and gets more beautiful over time.
Bellawood, our flagship line, offers both traditional domestic and exotic floors. It also has a 50 year, UV-cure aluminum oxide finish. No messy sanding or varnishing, you just install your floor and you're ready to go!
Brazilian Cherry is known for it's color, hardness, and durability. Now remember, no two floors will look the same. Brazilian Cherry shows a variety of colors from golden brown to reddish brown. It's great in homes and in business. Brazilian Cherry has a Janka rating of 2820 which is 123% harder than Red Oak! Now remember, that doesn't mean that it's impenetrable. It is a natural product so if something heavy is dropped or dragged across the floor, it can scratch or dent.
Something to take note of with Brazilian Cherry is that over time, it will patina. What I mean by that is as it is exposed to light, it will darken over time and colors will get deeper and richer. Therefore, during the first six months we do recommend moving furniture (as long as they have felt pads on the bottom!) and avoiding putting down area rugs so that the floor can change at a relatively consistent pace. If you do choose to put area rugs down, you may notice that the floor underneath is much lighter when you move the rug. If you remove the rug, the covered area of flooring will catch up to the rest of the wood eventually.
Also, Brazilian Cherry is not the best product over radiant heat While Brazilian Cherry is more stable than Red Oak, we don't recommend it because sustained high heat associated with radiant heat flooring can have a negative impact with Brazilian Cherry. Natural oils, calcification and other properties of this species can slowly migrate to the surface just under the clear top finishes, manifested as small whitish oxidation spots. This whitish calcification is a characteristic of the species, not a defect. Individual boards manifesting this condition will have to be replaced with new boards, it cannot be sanded out.
We offer Bellawood Brazilian Cherry in 5/16" x 2-1/4", 3/8" x 3", 3/4" x 2-1/4", 3/4" x 3-1/4" (what we have and my favorite), and 3/4" x 5". There's a product for many different applications, budget, and installation method. We also offer Bellawood Brazilian Cherry in an engineered variety.
Another product that we offer is Brazilian Cherry Lite. This flooring has tones ranging from yellowish brown to reddish brown. It's great for people who love the red tones of Brazilian Cherry, but want a paler colored wood. Brazilian Cherry Lite has the same Janka rating as Brazilian Cherry. We offer this in 1/2" x 3", 3/4" x 2-1/4", and 3/4" x 3-1/4".
All of Brazilian Cherry and Brazilian Cherry Lite products are Select Grade. That means they have the most uniform color with no large knots, and the longest average length of planks.
So it's no wonder that Bellawood Brazilian Cherry is as popular as it is. It has looks, strength, and character. All of those things make it a floor you should consider today!
Forgive me for not having a blog post sooner, things have been busy around here with us trying to have great deals on flooring for you! I wanted to bring up something today that I think is very important for hardwood flooring customers to know. Remember, the better informed you are, the happier you will be with your purchase.
When it comes to hardwood flooring, there are different grades. Different grades have different characteristics and coloring variations. The grades that we at Lumber Liquidators deal most with are Select, Natural, Rustic, and Utility. Select has the most uniform color with no large knots and the longest average length of planks. This is not to say there won't be a blemish here or there or short boards. We also say to estimate a waste factor of 5% for domestic woods and 10% for exotics for Select, Natural, and Rustic Grades. Natural Grade has some color variation, mineral coloring, and small knots. Rustic Grade has larger tight knots and the most color variation. It's a great choice when character marks and contrasting appearance are desired. Utility will have defects, knots, open knots, missing tongues, machine burns, splits in the wood, and short pieces. This is a good low cost option. Expect a waste percentage of 20% or greater.
One other product which isn't a grade, per-se, is Odd Lots. Odd Lots, simply put, are factory seconds which are sold as-is.
Want more detail? Here are the different grades along with detailed descriptions of them. For Select, Natural, and Rustic, I have included pictures of our Bellawood Red Oak so you can see how the different grades may vary for the same species. But please remember, your computer may render these pictures differently on your computer than what they look like in real life. Before you make a decision, we recommend either ordering samples or visiting your local store to find what you like best.
Select - Also referred to as Clear or First Grade
Select Grade flooring contains natural characteristics such as small knots an minor color variations produced by differences in natural heartwood and sapwood; however, has a more uniform color and longer average plank lengths compared to Natural Grade flooring products.
Specific characteristics of Select Grade products will vary by wood species. They typically include such things as slight imperfections in milling, slight variations in face-work which can be readily removed by an ordinary method of sanding, occasional small, tight pin knots or small pin holes, burls, and a reasonable amount of slightly open checks. Select Grade pre-finished flooring will have a plank face that is practically free of most finishing defects including debris, skips, streaks, blisters, chipping, or scratches. When assembled, Select Grade flooring should not exhibit gaps exceeding 0.025" or end/side over-wood (e.g. height variation between adjacent boards) exceeding 0.020".
Natural - Also referred to as First or Second Grade, Millrun or #1 Common
Natural Grade flooring contains distinct variations in coloration and varying wood characters. Natural Grade flooring will have a slightly longer average plank length compared to Rustic Grade products.
Specific characteristics of Natural grade flooring will vary widely by wood species. Typically these include minor imperfections in milling, imperfections in face-work which cannot be wholly removed by an ordinary method of sanding, slight variations in angle of end matching, varying wood characteristics such as spots, streaks, slightly open checks, and pin/work holes, small splits, broken knots or knot holes, and shallow back. Natural Grade pre-finished flooring will have a plank face that is free of most finishing imperfection, however, may contain a limited amount of minor blemishes including but not limited to light grainy surface/debris, bubbles, streaks, uncoated bevel, finish chipping, dents, or equivalent type characters. When assembled, Natural Grade flooring should not exhibit gaps exceeding 0.031" or end/side over-wood exceeding 0.030".
Rustic - Also referred to as Third Grade or #2 Common
The purpose of Rustic Grade flooring is to produce a floor suitable for homes, general utility use, or where character marks and contrasting appearance is desired. Rustic Grade flooring has a lower average plank length than Natural Grade flooring.
Rustic Grade flooring may contain all natural variations in coloration and sound wood characters except severe defects such as shattered or rotten ends, badly split ends, shake, advanced rot, or severe milling imperfections which would materially impair the serviceability of the floor. Knot holes and open characters which can be readily filled are admitted. Rustic Grade pre-finished flooring may have a plank face that contains a limited amount of finishing imperfections including but not limited to light/moderate grainy surface, debris, streaks, uncoated bevel, dents/scratches, lipped ends, or orange peel/ropey finish. Finish skips are not permitted. When assembled, Rustic Grade flooring should not exhibit gaps exceeding 0.031" or end/side over-wood exceeding 0/030".
Utility - Also referred to as Cabin or Tavern Grade.
This product comes in square edge or v-groove and may be mixed product. Will have defects, knots, open knots, missing tongues, machine burns, splits in the wood, and short pieces (8"-12"). No returns allowed. Cabin, tavern, or utility grade hardwood can provide a low-cost option in hardwood. When purchasing this grade, be sure to add 20%-25% waste to complete the project.
Utility Grade flooring will contain significant variation in wood coloration and character. Such imperfection s should still provide a serviceable floor. Utility Grade has the lowest average board length of all standard wood grades.
Utility Grade flooring will admit a limited amount of unfilled and unfinished open characters including open knots, splits, or cracks. Severely mis-manufactured boards, shattered or rotten ends, pieces with less than 1/4 tongue, or other unsound defects of a similar nature are typically not permitted. Utility Grade pre-finished flooring will contain a limited amount of pieces with finish irregularities including, but not limited to bubbles, finish skips or lines, severe streaks, stain/color variation, surface handling scratches, and grainy surface/debris. When assembled, Utility grade flooring may exhibit gapping that exceeds 0.031" and end/side over-wood that exceeds 0.030".
Odd Lots - Odd Lot flooring is factory seconds, sold as-is. It is possible that more than 50% of the material may contain one or more milling, grading, or finishing defects including but not limited to severley mis-milled boards, mis-graded boards, warp, wood characters including holes, splits, cracks, severe color variation that is not typical for the wood species, missing or off-color stain, missing/improperly cured finish, severe grainy surface/debris, chips, blisters, scratches, and peeling finish. All sales of Odd Lot products are final, product returns are not permitted.
As a
general rule, the more teeth on the blade, the smoother the cuts.
However, more teeth always means slower cutting and more load stress on the saw
motor. Fewer teeth means faster cutting speed, a reduction in force
required and more chance for wood tear-out or splintering. Here are a few tips
in choosing the right saw blade for the job. Carbide tipped blades are
best when cutting laminates and harder exotics. Quality blades can be re-edged
or sharpened several times saving money. Blades having expansion slots are
designed to greatly reduce heat-warping allowing the metal to cool thereby
extending the life of the blade. There are many blade versions, each designed
for cutting different materials.
Blades for Laminate Flooring
With laminates, it’s not the
hardness of the high density fiber core (HDFC) that causes saw blades to wear
down but actually the abrasion and heat from repeated cutting of the aluminum
oxide micro-chips applied to the wear-layer. Interestingly the same aluminum
oxide is used to make industrial grade sandpaper! In view of this, a thin kerf, 80 to 100
tooth, carbide-tipped blade is most effective
for cutting laminates and will last for about 1000 sft before needing to be
re-sharpened.
Blades for Hardwood Flooring
Blade dulling is common with the denser exotics, especially prefinished aluminum oxide coated floorings.
Tips
to Get the Most From Your Blades
Blade
Anatomy
Power Saw Tips
CUT FLOORING
OUTSIDE!!!
