Lumber Liquidators

Common Hardwood Myths - Part One

Our Tech & Install team is always looking out for you.  In this two part article, we explain some of the common myths placed on hardwood floors and dubunk them. 

Common Hardwood Myths

 1.     Wood floors should not be used in a kitchen.

     Kitchens are one of the most popular rooms in the house for hardwood floors.  Built to withstand heavy traffic and give long lasting beauty with minimal maintenance, hardwood floors are a perfect choice.

 2.     Damp mopping is the best way to clean a wood floor.

     To the contrary, water and wood do not mix.  Throw away that bucket and mop!  Water causes deterioration of the wood itself as well as the finish. Use maintenance products and procedures that will not harm your urethane finish. Ensure compatibility with urethane finishes.

 3.     Hardwood floors should not scratch or dent.

Although Hardwood floors of all species are durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of daily life, top finishes and wood can still scratch or dent given enough applied pressure or resistance. Higher gloss will show more imperfections. Manufactures do not warrant against scratching and denting

 4.     High heel shoes will not damage a wood floor.

     High heels or spiked heels are damaging to hardwood flooring.  They strike the floor with more force per inch than an elephant's foot.  High or spiked heels in disrepair are especially harmful, as the heel acts much like a tiny hammer pounding away at the floor with as much force as 10,000 pounds per inch!

 5.     When wood floors warp or cup, it is because the wood flooring is defective.

     Cupping is due to excess moisture or over drying and is considered jobsite related. Improper water maintenance, a plumbing leak, or moisture from the crawl space, basement, concrete slab or high/low-relative humidity can be the reasons.

 6.     If my wood floor changes colors or fades, it is because the finish or wood is defective.

No. Actually all wood floors can experience color shade change overtime. American cherry and many exotic species like Brazilian Cherry, Tiger wood, are photosensitive and will gain a richer, darker patina.  Area rugs and large furniture that cover the floor should be moved periodically to allow exposure to UV light and air on the area.  Eventually, the entire floor will reach the same even shading. There are no known values established for this natural condition, therefore, Manufactures do not warrant against these natural characteristics beyond its control.

 7.     I should be able to use every piece of wood I purchase.

     Realistically, wood is a product of nature and not perfect.  The industry allows a tolerance not to exceed 5% for defective boards, natural or manufacturer related, based on the total purchase. Some 8-10% for the exotics. If board width size seems to vary during installation, place boards of the same width size together in the same row.

  8.     If I find a defective board after the floor is installed, the manufacturer will replace or repair it.

     No. It is the responsibility of the installer/customer to inspect the floor to be installed and be selective in choosing each board in quality, grading, and natural color variation before installing it.  Once installed, the floorboards are deemed to be acceptable to both the installer and the end-user. If necessary, individual board replacements can be accomplished.

 9.     If my wood floor shows gaps between boards in the winter months, it is defective.

Nearly every wood floor endures some separation in between boards.  In winter, when homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring gives up some of its moisture and shrinks.  When that happens, cracks appear between the boards.  In the spring, when the heat is off and the indoor environment regains moisture, most gaps normally close.

Wood boards become dormant with indoor humidity levels of 30-50%and temperatures of 60-80F.

 10.  Kitchen floor cleaner with vinegar, ammonia, or abrasive cleaners are the best products to use when cleaning my floor.

     Never use these kinds of cleaners, as they can dull and damage your hardwood floors and void warranties. Use products safe for urethane finishes.

 

11.  It is best to keep the relative humidity low or dry in my home.

     The wood flooring industry recommends that you keep the environment at “normal living conditions”. That is a temperature from 60F to 80F and a relative humidity of 30% to 50% with a continuous flow of air across the floor.

 12.  My floor has more different colors and grain variations than the store sample, so I must not have received what I ordered.

     Wood floors are like snowflakes.  No two trees are alike; no two boards will be alike, even if taken from the same tree let alone from the same species growing different part of the world.  Furniture, cabinetry, doors, etc., are fabricated under ideal conditions and may contain 1-10 different pieces of wood.  Your floor is assembled in your own home, and is made up of 300 to over 1,000 different pieces of wood. Your custom floor is unique, never to be duplicated!

 13.  All hardwood species and wood floors have the same hardness factor.

      Not true.  All hardwood floors can dent, mar and scratch under various conditions. The wood industries have developed a Hardness rating scale or Janka scale that represents the resistance of wood to denting, marring, and wear.  The higher the number, the harder the species, and the more resistant it is. Red Oak is 1290, Brazilian Cherry is 2890, and Brazilian Walnut is 3680. Bamboo is a grass product its hardness can be compared to that of Maple or Hard Pine, though not held to the same standards.

 14.  It is always best to use my vacuum with a rotating brush to remove grit and debris from my wood floor.

     While weekly vacuuming is important for removing dirt and grit, A hard bristle brush beater bar can scratch and damage your hardwood.

 15.  My roller chairs should not damage my wood flooring.

     Roller chair wheels can damage a wood floor if equipped with hard plastic or metal rollers.  The wood industry recommends barrel-type rollers made of non-marring rubber.

 16.  Tables, chairs, and furniture should not scratch or dent my wood floor.

     Wood is a natural material and can dent or scratch.  Place adhesive felt furniture pads on the legs of chairs and all furniture to prevent damage to the floor's surface.

 17.  Wood floors require a lot of time and effort to maintain them.

     Unlike other types of floor coverings, hardwood floors can be kept looking like new with a minimum amount of effort.  Never damp mop your floor.  Use only products designed for wood floors.  Just spray and dry mop the floor.

 18.   Will Wood floors increase the value of my home?

     A quality hardwood floor will offer a lifetime of beauty and service and is an investment that will add considerable value to your home whether for your own enjoyment or for resale value.

 19.  Wormholes, mineral streaks, and knots are defects in wood.

     Because wood is a product of nature, most character marks such as pinholes, mineral streaks, and knots are allowed in most grades.  If a board is undesirable to you, tell your installer not to install it or cut it out. All wood manufacturers state that the responsibility for final inspection and approval is that of the installer and consumer.  Once the board has been installed, it is deemed to have been accepted by the installer and homeowner.  No claim for an installed board that is visibly defective will be honored.

How do I acclimate my wood, cork or laminate floor?

Have we mentioned that you should acclimate?  Once, twice, maybe?  Well, here are a few recommendations when it comes to acclimating your new floor before you install it.

For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the last items installed. Heating and air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running at least 7 days before the installation. To prevent moisture related issues such as board edge cupping, all wet work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster /drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. New concrete should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old.

To prevent moisture build-up, homes with crawl spaces must have vents for proper cross-ventilation.  Provide year-round air circulation with multiple vents. Venting allows damp areas to dry-out. Vents must be adequately spaced so that no dead air spaces remain. Under the home in the crawlspace use black 6-mil polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier. Completely Cover 100% of the surface of the ground to guard against excessive moisture. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape

Cork Flooring Links

Store CORK  Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in open packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed.

Laminate Links 

Store Laminate Flooring flat for a minimum of 48 hours, in unopened packaging, at room temperature (15°- 30°C / 60°-85°F and a maximum of 75% relative humidity) in the room in which they are to be installed. For floors with radiant heating make sure to turn down your thermostat to 15°C / 60°F at least 1 week prior to installation (do not turn off heating if the temperature outside is below freezing). Maintain the temperature below 27°C / 80°F.

 Solid Wood Domestic and Exotic Links 

All wood products are affected by environmental conditions especially prefinished materials. Acclimate the new flooring in the areas to be installed to normal lived-in conditions while in the boxes. If products are protected in plastic open the ends of the boxes. Length of time is not the determining factor. The goal is to reach an equilibrium or moisture balance between the new flooring with its surroundings before installation. This balance could be achieved in as little as 1 to 5 days, or longer for some exotic species. For best performance, condition the flooring to consistent indoor temperatures of 60°-80° F and indoor humidity levels of 30% - 50%. Very dry or humid regions usually require extended conditioning. Recommended acclimation levels maintained even after the installation will minimize board movement, excessive squeaks and gaps. Proper jobsite conditions, acclimation and moisture testing the subfloor and new flooring and all work together for the success of the installation. This is the responsibility of those overseeing the project.

 

Myths and Facts About Engineered Hardwood

We want to make sure you understand some myths about Engineered hardwood and the facts behind it.  Here's an article to help you understand the truth about Engineered flooring.

Myth #1 - Engineered flooring is “fake.”

Fact #1 - Engineered Flooring is real wood! Engineered flooring sold at Lumber Liquidators consists of a decorative hardwood veneer atop plies of premium quality, hardwood plywood. Even an HDF core is real wood that has been compacted into a dense, impact-resistant format.

Myth #2 - Engineered flooring is cheap and won’t last.

Fact #2 - Engineered flooring can be economical, but durability is not compromised. Multi-ply hardwood or high-quality HDF cores provide structural stability and all Schon, Bellawood and Virginia Mill Works engineered products have premium quality finish to protect the hardwood veneer and resist normal wear and tear. Warranties of 30 or 50 years show that this flooring is built to last.

Myth #3 - Engineered flooring looks bad & my neighbors will know I didn’t buy solid wood.

Fact #3 - Most engineered flooring at Lumber Liquidators is made in Random Length format to avoid a repetitive appearance. Thanks to REAL HARDWOOD veneers, once the flooring is installed, you cannot tell the difference between solid and engineered planks. Also, because more planks can be derived from every tree, Engineered flooring can be more cost effective, which gives customers access to beautiful exotic species they may not think they can afford.

Myth #4 - Engineered flooring can’t be refinished.

Fact #4 - Engineered flooring with veneers of 2mm thickness or more can be refinished at least once. Veneers of 0.6mm cannot be refinished, but flooring can usually be professionally buffed or polished to remove surface scratches and renew luster. In reality, today’s customer does not stay in a home as long as they used to and most people will never have to redo their floors. With premium quality finish that contains scratch and abrasion resistant agents, Schon or Bellawood Engineered flooring will still be going strong, long after the customer has left the home. (Note: Virginia Mill Works hand scraped products are not recommended for refinishing.)

Myth #5 - Engineered flooring is more complicated to install.

Fact #5 - With proper milling, Engineered flooring is no more difficult to install than Solid Hardwood flooring. In fact, Engineered flooring is very popular with DIY customers and convenient Quick Clic options provide fast, easy flooring solutions for every budget.

Myth #6 - Engineered flooring is only good for basements and condos.

Fact #6 - Engineered flooring IS a great option for below grade applications, but it can also be installed in virtually any room of a home or building. By design, the plies of Engineered flooring work together to offset the natural movement of real wood. Therefore, Engineered hardwood flooring remains flat and delivers enhanced stability during normal seasonal and environmental changes that occur in every home, and can be more reliable in humid climates. Engineered flooring can be nailed, glued, or floated and can be installed above or below grade, on concrete and over radiant heat applications.* (Most Species)

Myth #7 - Size matters! When it comes to veneers, thicker is better.

Fact #7 - Not always. Plank stability can vary greatly depending upon veneer, species, construction design, and climate.
Some species are inherently prone to checking or cracking if the veneer is too thick. Exotic species can be especially problematic if oils in the veneer react with the adhesives required to bond the wood plies. Thinner veneers yield less oil and can thus be more effective for the long-term performance of the flooring.
Construction is another critical component of Engineered flooring performance. Because one layer balances the next, the design can make or break the plank. If the core is not properly balanced with the veneer, the stronger layer will eventually prevail and cause the layers to strain, flex and bend.
Climate also has an impact on long-term durability. In very arid climates, for example, thinner veneers can remain beautiful for years whereas thick veneers react negatively to the lack of moisture by cupping or cracking.
In reality, Engineered flooring is a science. Lumber Liquidators needs to fully understand your needs in order to make the right suggestion. Thicker is NOT always better, but Lumber Liquidators will have a solution for every situation because care is taken in understanding every client’s environment.

Myth #8 - “I just saw the same thing at Woody’s World of Wood for $2 less!”

Fact #8 - Probably not. When evaluating pricing, the following should be considered:
•Veneer Thickness
•Plank Length & Style: How long are the planks? Are they Random Length or Fixed Length? Are the planks truly a single piece as the specs claim, or are listed dimensions achieved by joining two or more narrow/short pieces of wood?
•Wood Grade: Is the veneer clean or are there large knots, putty repairs, cracks, etc.?
•Finish: Is it clear or milky? Can it be easily scratched with a finger nail or blunt object?
•Species: Is it really Ebony, or a clever name that is meant to confuse, like Ebony Ash?
•Warranty: Finish? Structure? 5, 25 or 50 years?

Cold Floors? Radiant Heat and the Best Floors For Them

Cold floors?  It's that time of year again and radiant heated floors can help.   Before you buy, check out our species and styles most recommended for this application.

As you may know, some wood species are better candidates for radiant heat installation than others.  If you prefer solid wood floors, chose a species know for its stability.  Here is the order for best floor type selections as recommended by the National Wood Flooring Associations (NWFA).

Floating Wood Floors and Laminates - Highly recommended because they tend to move as a total unit better accommodating moisture and temperature changes.

Engineered Flooring - Works well with radiant heat because of its dimensionally stable plywood construction.  This construction allows each wood layer to run perpendicular to the other thereby resisting movement and moisture fluctuations.

Quarter Sawn or Rift-Sawn Flooring - This cut or style of flooring is preferable to plain sawn because it will expand upwards and downwards from elevated moisture, not side to side, producing less gapping and board edge cupping.

Strip Flooring  - A better choice than plank flooring because narrow board expand and contract less than wide boards do because there are more seams in a floor to take up or allow for any excessive board movement.

If you choose to use solid boards or planks wider than 3", make sure the board moisture content is dry, around 6-9% before, and maintained well after installation.  For any wood application over radiant heat, the newly installed system should be operating some two weeks prior to the floor installation.  This helps to further dry out any unknown pockets of trapped moisture.  Acclimation is critical with radiant heat installations to prevent board shock.  In no case should radiant heat exceed 85 degrees.  Maintain indoor humidity levels around 35-55%.

Although common red and white oak have been used successfully, species 15-20% higher in stability than red oak are considered ideal choices.  See our Stability Chart for boards listed on the higher stability spectrum.

It is true that Brazilian Cherry is more stable than red oak.  However, we do not recommend it for radiant heat applications.  Due to the sustained high heat associated with radiant heat, it can have a negative impact on Brazilian Cherry.  Natural oils, calcification, and other properties of this species can slowly migrate to the surface just under the clear top finishes manifested as small whitish oxidation spots.  This whitish calcification is a characteristic of the species, not a defect.  Individual boards showing this can be replaced with new boards, it cannot be sanded out.

Good Species for Radiant Heat Applications: Bamboo, Australian Cypress, Bolivian Rosewood, Koa, Mesquite, Teaks, Bloodwood, and Mahogany. 

Poor Species for Radiant Heat Applications: Maple, Beech, and Birch

*Wood Stability - A measured amount of movement that can be expected in some species of wood after installation.  Species stability is directly related to local humidity, temperature, and surface moisture.  Therefore, acclimation for radiant heat is very important for a successful installation.

Note - Even when using and ideal species for radiant heat applications, actual wood performance can still vary due to the radiant heat system construction, installation techniques, as well as your region of the country. 

Tips for Hardwood Floors for the Cold Weather

Winter is starting to show itself in some place.  We want you to enjoy your hardwood floors in the summer, winter, spring, and fall.  I asked our tech and install team to give us some tips to help you keep your floors looking their best, even when old man winter is at his worst.

• For areas of the country that get lots of snow especially, DO NOT track snow covered shoes or boots onto your hardwood floors.  Use an outside mat and another inside mat to catch the moisture.  Take your shoes off the door and move them to a place off of the hardwood flooring.  In many places where there is a lot of snow, ice-melt (or snow salt) can get stuck in the bottom of shoes and boot and create grit and scratch the wood floors if you aren't careful.  Homes that have a garage, it is best to enter through the garage and leave shoes and boots by the garage door before entering.
• Many people find it helpful to keep rags or mops near the entryway of their home, at the ready for when snow or water clean up is needed.
• Some heating systems can lower the humidity level in your home.  Low humidity levels can cause the wood flooring to contract and create gaps between planks.  Low humidity levels can also create cupping and checks in the wood.  It is key to use a hygrometer to maintain the humidity to the recommended levels written by the floor manufacturers installation instructions.  Hygrometers can be helpful and are inexpensive ($7-$30).
• Not only wood flooring, but fine furniture and plaster walls can suffer from very low indoor humidity.  The goal is to maintain recommended/target humidity levels of 35-55%.  Many HVAC units can be professionally retro fitted with APRIL AIR or similar equipment designed to add moisture back into dry homes.
• Wood burning stoves and fireplaces offer cozy but very dry heat.  You can add needed moisture back into your home simply by putting a kettle full of water on the wood stove, thereby adding moisture back into the dry air. 
• DON'T FORGET TO ACCLIMATE!!!!  Many products are stored in warehouses where the temperatures are less than ideal.  It is up to the customer/installer to correctly acclimate materials to in-home conditions before installation.  The stores are there to store and inventory the materials safely.
• If you plan on installing in the winter, many of our adhesives are moisture cure urethanes which require some air humidity for them to cure.  If the air is very dry due to your heating system, it will take longer for the adhesive to cure.  Most adhesive manufacturers will have a Temperature/Humidity chart in their instructions that will tell you how long it will take the product to cure.
• Nail guns should be allowed to warm up and should be oiled before use.  Using cold nailers can cause the nails to stick or get stuck and could cause internal damage.
• Adhesives should also be brought into the house before installation.  Cold adhesives will not spread very well.  Many adhesive companies require the adhesive to be store at temperatures between 50F and 100F.

Helpful Tips Before Doing a Glue Down Flooring Installation

Bob, our in-house installer (who I will be introducing soon), gave me this helpful guide if you are planning to glue down your floor.  These tips are designed to be a helpful guide but aren't meant to be all inclusive or take the place of your installer.  It's really best to consult with a professional flooring installer for their advice as they can see all the issues with your specific installation.

Flooring Selection- Lumber Liquidators recommends engineered flooring for glue-down application or the more stable species of solid wood.  Select sizes under 3/4" thick. 

Acclimation- Wood and cork flooring will need to acclimate in the installation area.  The room should be conditioned between 65-85 F and 35-55% relative humidity, these levels need to be maintained.  The HVAC system should be function an wet trades complete prior to installation (aka, new cement).  Don't lay your floor until the correction are made.  Poor acclimation can result in excessive board squeaking and gaps and is not manufacturer related.

Concrete Sub-floor- Prior to installation, concrete should preferably be 60-90 days old, the moisture content of concrete must be measured with a meter specifically designed for concrete moisture measurements.  The moisture vapor measurement must not exceed 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft, in 24 hours using the calcium chloride test.  This is the only quantitative test available at this time and must be performed to determine the extent of moisture passing through the slab.  Calcium chloride test kids are available at most flooring supply distributors.  Moisture testing only determines the presence of moisture at the time of measurement.  Of greater concern is future moisture passing up through the slab to the surface, therefore, the use of a moisture barrier is necessary.

PRE-INSTALLATION INSPECTION

1. The installer is the final quality inspector.

2. “Racking out” the floor or laying out each piece allows the installer to visually inspect the flooring for imperfections that can be cut out or adjustments made before installing.

 3.  Defective boards if used should be set aside or relocated to hidden places (such as a closet) by the installer.  If a board has an unacceptable defect (hole, split, crack, etc.) the installer should cut it out or set it aside.

4. Generally, a minimum of 5% should be added to the actual square footage needed as an allowance for cutting waste in domestic woods and 8-10% for exotics. Some species like Australian Cypress may have a larger expected “scrap” ratio due to the characteristics of the species.  Replace these boards using the added 5 – 10% of material ordered for the job. If you have a higher than average scrap rate and are unable to complete your installation, take samples to the store nearest you. Bellawood liability is limited to replacement of defective material only in excess of 5% (excluding the cutting allowance).

6. The use of stain, touch-up pen or filler stick for correction during installation is accepted as normal procedure.

7. “Repairs” - Always keep a partial box from your initial installation for any future repairs or board replacement.

8. “Touch-up markers” or color filler sticks used for correcting nicks or chips during and after pre-finished wood installation is a normal procedure.

9. Do not allow adhesives to dry out or skin-over before placing boards.

10. Lumber Liquidators recommends moisture testing, the use of moisture barriers and 100% urethane wood flooring adhesives

11. To ensure glue transfer, glue manufactures recommend rolling the flooring throughout installation using a 100 lb roller

12.  For the best result, do not mix adhesive products. Use moisture barriers and adhesives from the same manufacturer’s product line.

13.  Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. (Ensure a 95% min glue-to-board glue transfer).

14.  During constant use trowel teeth will wear down. For best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of adhesive.

15. Follow glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers.

16. Intermix product from several cartons as you install the floor to insure color, grain and shade mix.

17. Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line.

18. Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured (incorrect tape can harm the finish.) During installation tape together 4 or 5 board rows at 18” intervals.

19. Discard twisted or warped boards.

20. [CAUTION]: Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be aware that over-strapping may adversely affect the floor and can result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards, or out-of-square flooring board alignment. 

 Cured adhesive can cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish. Clean fresh adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently with mineral spirits or manufacturer-recommended remover. Use clean towels changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.

What is an Engineered Hardwood Floor?

I will be honest, when I first started at Lumber Liquidators, I had no idea what an engineered floor was.  At first I thought it was a laminate, but it's not!  The two are very different.  I will discuss laminates another day, but today, we'll concentrate on engineered flooring.

Engineered hardwood is constructed with layers of hardwood veneer, glued and heat pressed together to create a product that can range in thickness from 5/16" up to 9/16", having 3 to 8 plys or layers.  The top veneer can ranging in thickness up to 1/4", depending on the manufacturer.  But it is REAL HARDWOOD.  In order to create an engineered hardwood, these plys or layers are stocked on top of each other with each layer or grain of the wood facing perpendicular to each other. 

Once the desired thickness is achieve, the boards are then cut into the correct board width.  From there, the boards are then manufactured to have a tongue or groove on the edges.  The final step is to add stain and finish.  By design, engineered hardwood becomes less susceptible to the effects of moisture and temperature fluctuations.  Therefore, engineered hardwood is referred to as being dimensionally stable.  Solid hardwood is not as efficient in dimensional stability because the grain throughout the board runs in only one direction.  The positive stability of engineered hardwood allows it to be glued directly to concrete, above or below grade, and is also perfect for radiant heat applications.

Engineered types of flooring can be used in full bathrooms because these are less susceptible to moisture fluctuations, however users should take reasonable precautions against steam and high humidity common with hot showers. Added ventilation can serve to alleviate excess humidity build-up in any room while mats placed around tubs to catch water spills are also recommended.

A moisture barriers over concrete is always recommended.  Some styles of engineered flooring can be stapled down, nailed down, glued to cement, or floated.

We offer several brands of engineered hardwood as well as a few unique options including handscraped, exotic woods, and Quick Clic.  If you want hardwood but just aren't sure it's right, check out engineered flooring.  It may be the answer you've been looking for.

What WOOD You Like to Hear About?

Hello out there in the blog-o-sphere.  This post is for you.  Actually, all of these posts are for you, that's why I'm here!!!  This blog has been around for a few weeks now and I've had a lot of fun deciding on topics and posts.  However, I want to know what YOU want to hear about.  Leave some comments and let me know what you'd like to get out of this blog.  Want to hear about products? Installation techniques? Happenings around the Lumber Liquidators offices?  Customer Interviews?  The recipe for my world famous Texas Sheet Cake (well, it's my aunt's and it's not world famous...yet)?  I really am here for you and I will try to respond to suggestions and incorporate them into the blog over time.  And please be nice, we do moderate the comments that come in so don't put anything that is spam, profane, or nonconstructive. 

And in case you love the blog the way it is, here are some fun sites that I love that you may enjoy too!

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ (<--You knew this would be at the top of the list!)

http://www.hgtv.com/

http://www.diynetwork.com/

http://www.foodnetwork.com/ 

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/  (My dad watched this show when I was a kid and I find myself watching too!)

Understanding the Janka Scale, Hardness, and Stability

When you purchase a new wood floor, I’m sure that there are a few things running through your mind.   Does it look good?  Is it durable?  Does Lumber Liquidators’ warranty cover scratches?  What kind of damage will my 2-year-old and Yorkipoo do to the floor? These are all important things to think about.  Durability is a big concern of many customers.  Before you choose hardwood based on color, take a look at the hardness and stability of the wood you are interested in.

The hardness of wood reflects its durability and is measured on the Janka hardness scale.  The Janka hardness test measures the force required to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter into the wood. In the picture above, the orange reflects the hardness while the violet reflects stability. Northern Red Oak is the species that all others are compared against and if the Janka rating is higher for that wood, it denotes a harder wood.  For example the Janka rating for Northern Red Oak is 1290. Brazilian Walnut, a very hard wood, has a Janka rating of 3680.  That makes it roughly 185% harder than Northern Red Oak!  It also makes it difficult to install but we’ll leave that for another day. Janka testing helps customers to understand the resistance of wood to wear and denting and is used to approximate product and customer expectations.  Even though it creates numerical results for hardness, natural variations are to be expected, even within a species.

Also, there is not a relationship between wood hardness and surface finish wear, which is why manufacturers do not warranty wood flooring against scratching and denting.  While it’s true that a particular species used in flooring is durable enough to handle day to day use, that doesn’t mean a harder wood won’t dent. 

Trees come from nature and because of their cell structure, all wood products can dent and scratch. So if you take a hammer to your floor and pound as hard as you can, you’ll probably be able to dent your floor.  Something we definitely don’t recommend.  What did that poor floor do to you anyways? 

Appliances and furniture can eventually leave dents on hardwood flooring.  Luckily, wood floors can be restored using “Touch-Up Kits”, individual board replacement, or a total sanding and refinishing of the floor if needed. 

No floor is “Scratch Proof”.  However urethane finishes are applied to take limited surface abuse, thereby protecting your investment…the wood underneath. Taking safeguards like applying felt pads to furniture, keeping your floor clean, using rugs or walk-off mats at entrances to the home, keeping your pet’s nails trimmed, not using the “beater-bar” on your vacuum, or having a “No Shoe” policy (or at least a “No High Heels” policy) are good ways to protect your floor. 

Another attribute to consider is stability.  Stability refers to how much an installed wood floor expands and contracts in relationship to the change in humidity.  Northern Red Oak is once again used as a baseline.  If the percentage is higher than Northern Red Oak, then is it more stable and reacts less to moisture changes within the environment. 

With a little research, you can choose a floor that you will love and will look beautiful for years to come.