Lumber Liquidators

What WOOD You Like to Hear About?

Hello out there in the blog-o-sphere.  This post is for you.  Actually, all of these posts are for you, that's why I'm here!!!  This blog has been around for a few weeks now and I've had a lot of fun deciding on topics and posts.  However, I want to know what YOU want to hear about.  Leave some comments and let me know what you'd like to get out of this blog.  Want to hear about products? Installation techniques? Happenings around the Lumber Liquidators offices?  Customer Interviews?  The recipe for my world famous Texas Sheet Cake (well, it's my aunt's and it's not world famous...yet)?  I really am here for you and I will try to respond to suggestions and incorporate them into the blog over time.  And please be nice, we do moderate the comments that come in so don't put anything that is spam, profane, or nonconstructive. 

And in case you love the blog the way it is, here are some fun sites that I love that you may enjoy too!

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ (<--You knew this would be at the top of the list!)

http://www.hgtv.com/

http://www.diynetwork.com/

http://www.foodnetwork.com/ 

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/  (My dad watched this show when I was a kid and I find myself watching too!)

How To Install Dream Home Laminate Flooring

Many of our customers are the DIY type.  Hopefully this guide will help you with installing your new Dream Home flooring.  This can also be found in our Flooring 101 section for an easy-to-print document.

Before you get started, make sure you have carefully prepared your floor (concrete, wood, sheet & tile flooring, carpeting, or radiant heat) properly for smooth installation and that the subfloor requirements have been met.

PRECAUTIONS, STORAGE & HANDLING, ROOM PREPARATION

• DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring must be stored flat, horizontally and stacked no more than four cartons high at all times. Improper storage can result in warping and difficult assembly. Protect carton corners from damage.
• Storage area and job site should be climate-controlled with ideal temperatures of 65°F-75°F, humidity under 75%.
• Do not store directly on cement, allow for air circulation. Protect from rain, moisture.
• Laminates with pre-attached padding do not need additional underlayment. If building associations require extra sound isolation, the use of heavier type underlayments such as cork, Quiet Walk or Insulayment is recommended to support the locking system.
• For rooms larger than 27’ in any direction, the use of center T-moldings is required to allow for the normal movement or seasonal expansion of the entire installed floor.
• Install under moldings and doorway transition moldings. New molding must be of sufficient size to cover the expansion area around the perimeter of the floor.
• Leave at least ½” between the surface of the flooring and the bottom of electric baseboard heaters to allow heat to circulate.
• Do not fit this floor tight against any fixed, vertical objects (ex. walls, pipes, passageways, staircases). A minimum of ¼” to ½” expansion space is required around the perimeter of the room as well as any fixed objects. Provide ½” expansion for ½” thick flooring. All floating floors require fixed cabinets to be installed first before installing planks.
• Undercut door moldings and casings to allow the flooring to fit underneath without restriction. Use a scrap piece of laminate and foam underlayment as a spacer guide.
• After installation, it may be necessary to trim the bottom of doors to allow for new floor height.
• A moisture barrier, 6mm-8mm polyethylene sheet plastic must be installed completely over tiles, kitchen vinyl or concrete prior to installation. Overlap the plastic 6 inches and tape the entire length of the seam with duct tape.
• For best shade appearance, install planks from several boxes. Keep an extra box of materials for repairs.
• Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side of the plank.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Undercut Saw, Table Saw, Miter Saw, Circular Saw, Jig Saw, 1/4" or 1/2” Spacers, hammer, tapping block, tape Measure, T-square, PVA laminate glue as needed, tape, safety glasses, broom/vacuum, underlayment, 6mm-8mm Polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture barrier over concrete (Do not use plastic over bare wood subfloors).

GETTING STARTED
1. Inspect all planks for visible defects and damage before and during installation. Do not install damaged planks. During installation, inspect the groove area for any debris that may prevent proper assembly of planks. DREAMHOME Laminate Flooring will not accept responsibility for claims on flooring installed with obvious defects.
2. Determine in which direction the planks will be installed. To make the room appear larger or if installing in very small rooms or hallways, it is preferable to lay the planks parallel to the longest room dimension.
3. End-joint “shadow” can be minimized, avoid running board direction into the primary light source.
4. Carefully measure the room to determine squareness and the width of the first and last row of planks. If the width of the last row of planks is less than 2” excluding the tongue, adjust the width of first plank row accordingly.

         3.                                 4.

WHEN INSTALLING PLANKS

1. The tongue side of the plank should face the starting wall. To get the laminate row closer to the wall you may remove the tongue from the starting row of planks only. Begin laying planks on the left side corner of the starting wall and work to the right side. When cutting planks, make sure the teeth of the power saw blade is cutting into the decorative surface. Best results are achieved when using a thin carbide tipped cutting blade.

2. Example of incorrect board placement.      

  1.                               2.

3. Example of board placement sequence during Layout. Note how board #6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between #6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not over-tap.   

4. Adding additional spacers to the (beginning and ending rows) will help hold installed planks together during installation. Remove spacers when finished.

                                                                         

5. If the starting or ending wall is irregular, scribe or trace the contour of the wall to the row of boards.

STARTING THE FIRST ROW

1. Start by placing/tapping spacers against the wall at the short and long side of each plank and at a seam where two planks join. Double this spacing for larger room areas over 20’ in any direction.

2. Complete the first row progressively locking the shorter ends of the planks.

1.  2.

3. The last plank in any row will need to be cut. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface. of the last full plank, make sure to allow for the spacer. If this measurement is less than 12”, the length of first plank in the row should be adjusted. This will allow for a longer plank at the end of the row. The first and last plank in each row should be at least 12” in length. Boards used under the recommended 12” should also be edge-glued.

4. Fill-in planks can be cut with a jig saw, power saw, or hand saw. TIP: Clean cuts are achieved using a thin kerf, carbide tipped saw blade. Blade cut rotation should cut into the décor or finished side of the plank.  

    3. 4.

5. Ideally, the remaining pieces cut off from planks may serve as the starter or first plank in the next row.

6. Stagger new end-joints from previously installed rows a minimum of 6”-12” to avoid seam line-up.  

5.   6.

7. The last board of each row, under cabinets or other difficult areas can be tapped-in using a tapping bar. 

                                                                                                                                                                         7.

8. SECOND AND CONSECUTIVE ROWS
a. Position the first plank of the second row with the short end-side against a wall spacer. Next engage the long tongue side into the groove planks of the first row at approximately a 45º angle until planks fit together.

b. Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint closes, locks or clicks.                                                     

a.                b.

9. PROGRESSIVELY INSTALLING INDIVIDUAL BOARDS
a. Place another board, following the above directions Insert the long tongue side into the groove side at approximately a 45º angle until planks lock together.
b. Gradually lower the plank down flat until the joint clicks/closes.

c. Using a tapping block, gently tap to close any gaps between boards - repeat procedure until completed Note how board #6 is installed with a slight gap (1/8”-3/16”) in-between #6 and #5 board. The gap is then gradually closed as board #6 is lightly tapped with a (tapping block) against board#5. Do not over-tap, repeat process until finished.                                                                                                                                

c.

10. Last rows. Measure and cut to sufficient width to allow for the recommended expansion gap. Use a table saw to rip planks to the appropriate width. Planks less than 3” would also need to be glued at the edges.     

                                                                                                                                              

11. For rooms wider or longer than 27’, the use of DREAM HOME T-Molding is required to account for the normal movement of the floor. When possible, T-Moldings should be utilized in areas such as doorways, archways, etc.            

                                                                                                         

12. In areas where it is difficult to angle the planks up into position, such as around/under door moldings or jams, kitchen cabinetry or older type heat registers, it is necessary to remove the lip or locking system from the groove edge of the planks you are fitting to. This is done by lightly scraping or planning off the lip only on the groove side of the plank. This will allow you to install the plank laying it flat. After the lip has been trimmed on the planks you are fitting to, lay the plank flat on the floor. Apply a thin bead of PVA laminate glue on top of the tongue and push the planks into position. Immediately wipe off any excess glue with a damp cloth.

Removing the Lip or Locking System

FINISHING THE INSTALLATION / FLOOR CARE

• Remove spacers from perimeter of room.
• Install transition moldings. Do not fasten transitions through the laminate flooring.
• Install quarter round or baseboard molding. Molding must be sufficient size to cover the ¼” or ½” expansion space. Do not fasten moldings through the laminate flooring. Fasten into the wall.
• Use plywood when moving furniture or appliances into position to protect the flooring.
• Use coasters or proper floor protectors under the legs of furniture.
• DREAM HOME Laminate Flooring can be maintained by using a dry swiffer mop or cleaned with laminate floor cleaners. Do not flood mop floor. Do not use abrasive cleaners.
• Chipping edges, dents and Scratches are site related, not warrantable.

I hope these instructions help you with your installation project.  Remember, if you have any further questions, check out the Flooring 101 section on the Lumber Liquidators website for more installation and maintenance tips.

How to Replace a Nail Down Prefinished Hardwood Floor Board

Do you have concerns about a damaged hardwood board? You are not alone.  Everyone who owns a hardwood floor will probably have to do a board replacement at some time. Board replacement is a normal part of the hardwood flooring industry, in fact up to 8 percent of your flooring can be replaced and your floor will still have its integrity. Most boards need to be replaced due to events that are out of our control, for example: environmental factors, objects that fall, or damage from furniture, shoes, children, and pets. A board replacement will have your flooring looking like it was never damaged and you will never know that it has been done.

Here are the steps on how to replace a damaged board.

Tools needed for Board Replacement

• Circular Saw
• Chisel
• Hammer
• #2080 painters tape
• Epoxy
• Miter Box
• Small pry bar
• Painters plastic (use to cover furniture from exposure to dust)

***Installation Tip #1: Due to natural color changes in wood species, the new board may not match the shade of the old flooring. If this is the case, let the new board sit in the home for a week in a spot where it will receive the most light. Direct light will quicken the color change, allowing the new board to blend in better with the old flooring. This will also help the new board acclimate to the environment of the home.

***Installation Tip #2: Measure the width of the old board to see if it is equal to the width of the new board. If the old wood has expanded due to moisture, the new board may not fit and the board replacement should wait to be done during a drier climate.

Step 1 – Cover the bottom of you circular saw with blue tape so it will not scratch your flooring. Set the depth of the skill saw to the thickness of the board being replaced. Apply blue tape around the board that is being cut so you don’t mistakenly cut into another plank. Cut down the length of the board on the groove side and on the tongue side and then make another cut diagonally across the first two cuts.

Step 2 – Take a hammer and pry bar and pull up the 2 halves in the middle of the board. Then chisel out the remaining pieces around the edges.

Step 3 - Pull out nails and cut out the felt or rosin paper. Take a vacuum and clean up any debris.

Step 4 - Measure the area that was cut out.

Step 5 - Measure new board and cut it to desired length needed. Use a sanding sponge to create a slight bevel on the cut edge. Also cut the bottom groove off the length and width of the board.

This picture shows the groove cut off the width end, do the same for the bottom groove down the length of the board.

Step 6 – Apply a 100% urethane adhesive in a snake like pattern to the cleaned subfloor and place new board in sliding the tongue of the board into place first. Take a block of wood and tap down gently on the new board to knock it in place.

 

Step 7 – Apply weight to the board until the adhesive has time to cure. You have now finished your board replacement.

If you ever have any questions about installation, you can also contact the Lumber Liquidators Technical and Installation Department at install@lumberliquidators.com.  Good luck with your project!

Going Green? Try Bamboo Flooring!

Many people are moving towards using green products in their homes, such as energy efficient appliances, CFL light bulbs (you know, the funny looking curly ones), and more efficient windows to keep energy costs low.  You can go green with your flooring options also.  A very popular trend in the past few years has been bamboo.  While bamboo is a grass, not a wood, it is stable and strong and a good alternative to actual hardwood floors.  Bamboo is fast growing and has an extensive root system that creates new bamboo shoots and requires no replanting!

Before you run out and choose bamboo because it is green (not the color, but we do have a Blue Ash if you’re looking to make a statement), take a look at the different types and what may be best suited to your lifestyle.  Similar to hardwood, bamboo can still scratch and dent.  The more mature a bamboo is, the harder it is.  When looking at a brand, check the age of the bamboo.  Different brands have different harvesting schedules.  Specification sheets should give you this information.

Below are some terms you should understand before purchasing your bamboo.  These can help you choose the floor that is best for your needs. 

Horizontal – Horizontal bamboo describes the direction of each of the bamboo pieces used in making the flooring.  The pieces of bamboo are arranged in a horizontal direction, lying on their widest edge, and joined side by side with adjacent pieces.  Horizontal bamboo is considered to be slightly harder than Red Oak.

Vertical – Vertical bamboo has the pieces of bamboo arranged in a vertical direction, standing on their narrow edge and then pressed together with other pieces.  Vertical bamboo is also slightly harder than Red Oak.

Strand – Strand bamboo is neither vertical nor horizontal, but woven pieces of fibrous bamboo strips.  These strips undergo high-pressure heat pressing that produce a heavier bamboo product.  Strand bamboo is significantly harder than horizontal and vertical bamboo.

Natural – Natural bamboo is just that, natural looking. Nothing has been done to the grass itself so it is a lighter, brighter color.  Most natural bamboo will be pretty consistent in color.

Carbonized – Carbonized bamboo is not a stained bamboo but rather it has gone through a process where the bamboo is steamed or boiled in a giant bath, heating up the sugars.  The sugars turn a darker, richer color that permeates the entire board throughout.  Carbonized bamboo can vary slightly in color depending on how long the bamboo was treated and how much sugar the bamboo has in it.  If you choose carbonized bamboo, you or your installer may want to work out of several boxes at a time in case there are any color variations between boxes.

Tiger Strand – Tiger Strand bamboo is strand bamboo that has pressed natural and carbonized bamboo together, creating stripes similar to that of a tiger’s, hence the name.  

There are also stained options if you are looking for a lighter or darker option compared to the natural or carbonized variety.  Bamboo is a unique and green flooring option that can really make a statement in a room.  Beautiful, green, unique, what more do you need in a floor?

Steps to Finding Your Perfect Floor

Thinking about putting hardwood down but don’t know what is best for your room?  There are a lot of things to consider before making a major purchase.  You want to be happy with your purchase and so do we!

First, you probably want to decide what your budget is so you know which products to look at more closely.  If you want to spend $2.00 a square foot but want hardwood, you may not be able to get the unique exotic that you have your heart set on.  Fear not!  There are other great, affordable options like laminate and engineered that may work for your price point.  Consider how many square feet you want to put down and how much you are willing to spend for that area.  If you want to spend $3000 for a 400 square foot room, you will have a lot more options than if you plan on spending less than $1000 for the same space. 

Next you want to consider the area that you are putting the flooring in.  Is it a bedroom that doesn’t get a lot of traffic?  A kitchen where water has a tendency to not stay in the sink?  A playroom for children who practice WWF-style moves?  Different products are good for different applications.  For example, hardwood may not be an ideal choice for a full bathroom that is showered in daily because of the water that ends up on the floor and the humidity that can be absorbed into the flooring, resulting in board edge cupping.  An engineered floor may be better for that area.  Cork is becoming a popular option for kitchens due to the comfort it brings when people are standing for long periods.  If you are concerned about durability, check out the Janka rating (for hardwood durability) or the AC rating (for laminate durability) while you are doing your shopping.

Then comes, perhaps, the most exciting consideration: color!  With a wide variety of hardwood, laminate, bamboo, cork, and engineered at your disposal, there are many, many options for color from light, bright colors to rich, dark tones.  Whether you want your floor to match an existing floor, to be a showpiece, to compliment furniture, or to give your room “mood flooring”, there is a floor for you.  Hmm, maybe “mood flooring” won’t take off the way “mood lighting” did.  Oh well.

Lumber Liquidators has a wide variety of these products as well as knowledgeable staff that are happy to help you with your flooring decision.  New flooring can dramatically change the look and feel of your home.  Choose the floor that’s best for you and you will enjoy it for years to come!

Understanding the Janka Scale, Hardness, and Stability

When you purchase a new wood floor, I’m sure that there are a few things running through your mind.   Does it look good?  Is it durable?  Does Lumber Liquidators’ warranty cover scratches?  What kind of damage will my 2-year-old and Yorkipoo do to the floor? These are all important things to think about.  Durability is a big concern of many customers.  Before you choose hardwood based on color, take a look at the hardness and stability of the wood you are interested in.

The hardness of wood reflects its durability and is measured on the Janka hardness scale.  The Janka hardness test measures the force required to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter into the wood. In the picture above, the orange reflects the hardness while the violet reflects stability. Northern Red Oak is the species that all others are compared against and if the Janka rating is higher for that wood, it denotes a harder wood.  For example the Janka rating for Northern Red Oak is 1290. Brazilian Walnut, a very hard wood, has a Janka rating of 3680.  That makes it roughly 185% harder than Northern Red Oak!  It also makes it difficult to install but we’ll leave that for another day. Janka testing helps customers to understand the resistance of wood to wear and denting and is used to approximate product and customer expectations.  Even though it creates numerical results for hardness, natural variations are to be expected, even within a species.

Also, there is not a relationship between wood hardness and surface finish wear, which is why manufacturers do not warranty wood flooring against scratching and denting.  While it’s true that a particular species used in flooring is durable enough to handle day to day use, that doesn’t mean a harder wood won’t dent. 

Trees come from nature and because of their cell structure, all wood products can dent and scratch. So if you take a hammer to your floor and pound as hard as you can, you’ll probably be able to dent your floor.  Something we definitely don’t recommend.  What did that poor floor do to you anyways? 

Appliances and furniture can eventually leave dents on hardwood flooring.  Luckily, wood floors can be restored using “Touch-Up Kits”, individual board replacement, or a total sanding and refinishing of the floor if needed. 

No floor is “Scratch Proof”.  However urethane finishes are applied to take limited surface abuse, thereby protecting your investment…the wood underneath. Taking safeguards like applying felt pads to furniture, keeping your floor clean, using rugs or walk-off mats at entrances to the home, keeping your pet’s nails trimmed, not using the “beater-bar” on your vacuum, or having a “No Shoe” policy (or at least a “No High Heels” policy) are good ways to protect your floor. 

Another attribute to consider is stability.  Stability refers to how much an installed wood floor expands and contracts in relationship to the change in humidity.  Northern Red Oak is once again used as a baseline.  If the percentage is higher than Northern Red Oak, then is it more stable and reacts less to moisture changes within the environment. 

With a little research, you can choose a floor that you will love and will look beautiful for years to come.

Hardwood Cleaning Tips

Today's Prefinished wood floorings are easier than ever to keep clean, needing only minimal care to keep looking good, year after year. Here's a few simple cleaning and preventive maintenance tips for hardwood, cork and bamboo floorings with urethane finishes.

• First, vacuuming, dust-mop or sweeping regularly is the best way to remove surface dust, grit and dirt before it gets walked into the finish, dulling the luster. Vacuuming also pulls accumulated dust from the grooves between factory finished and plank floors. Sand particles are very destructive and are really tiny pieces of glass, like sandpaper ready to scratch the finish. When vacuuming, soft attachment parts are recommended. It's best to avoid the notorious beater-bar. Its spinning bristles can scratch or generate enough heat to permanently leave hot-spot marks on the finish

If you do have scratches, quite often minor ones can be concealed using liquid scratch covers, sprays or lotions. Dents and nicks can be filled using wood floor repair kits (Touch-up markers, epoxy fill sticks or wax color pencils) usually available at your local home store. If your floor is severely damaged you can consult a professional about refinishing, or perhaps just an individual board replacement may be all that's needed. Scratching and denting of installed flooring while unfortunate is beyond a manufacturer's ability to control therefore not considered a product defect. Interestingly, the purpose of today's urethane top-finishes serves the same function as waxed floors did in the old days in that finishes are intended to take the abuse first, thereby protecting the actual wood. Therefore, as unsightly as scratches are the urethane top-finishes are actually working as intended... protecting your investment.

• Secondly, remember that wood and water does not mix well. So never pour water directly onto your floor or wet mop the floor like you would ceramic tiles. Even small amounts of water can cause hard water spots, clouding or deterioration to the finish or edge cup the wood. When selecting maintenance products, please note the labeling instructions. Only use products specifically designed or safe for urethane finished floors. Note that some cleaners may interfere with future re-coating such as waxes and oil soaps. The application is also important as many cleaners will direct you to apply the cleaner to the applicator first then the floor, rather than directly to the floor. You must adhere to the manufacturer's labeling directions for their warranty.

• Lastly, protect your floors by using chair leg protectors and walk-off mats or throw-rugs just inside the entrances. Choose non-solvent, felt or plant based products. Do not use synthetic rubber or plastic backed mats as trace chemicals can attack, discolor, yellow or fade the finish. These types of mats often react negatively exposed to direct UV light. Some non-slip padding's placed under throw-rugs may also contain plasticizers harmful to urethane finishes.

Please see our Flooring 101 for more installation details and how to get the most from your new flooring.